Removing tire from rim when truing
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Removing tire from rim when truing
I know some people that say to leave the tire and tube on when truing a wheel and some that say to take it all off. I normally take the tire and tube off when I true wheels. But just wondering if it is necessary or beneficial to take the tire and tube off or to leave them on and what you guys do.
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I know some people that say to leave the tire and tube on when truing a wheel and some that say to take it all off. I normally take the tire and tube off when I true wheels. But just wondering if it is necessary or beneficial to take the tire and tube off or to leave them on and what you guys do.
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I know some people that say to leave the tire and tube on when truing a wheel and some that say to take it all off. I normally take the tire and tube off when I true wheels. But just wondering if it is necessary or beneficial to take the tire and tube off or to leave them on and what you guys do.
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The rim tape and tube aren't anywhere near the spokes/nipples in a double wall rim and some multiple of the .018" of spoke movement produced by a full turn of a nipple isn't going to do anything in a single wall rim.
#6
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someone on here (maybe psimet?) measured a significant spoke tension drop when the tire is installed and inflated. if you true a wheel, a lot of the time it will not stay when you inflate the tire. to skip that step, i just true my wheels with the tires on and inflated.
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I alway remove the tire if I'm not just tightening a loose spoke. I often find the radial run-out on wheels that I haven't trued before is not as close as I would prefer, and the extra weight of the tire makes spinning the wheel a hassle, especially on MTB wheels.
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As far as checking round, yes, take the tire off.
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It's a lot easier do do a decent job if you take'em off. In particular if you don't have a truing stand and will have to use the fork/chanstays.
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1. Easier to do a quality job with tires off.
2. With tires off, you get an excellent view of the brake pads - makes "perfect" pad alignment much easier.
3. With tires off, you get a much more accurate view of the wheel alignment in the rear and front dropouts and stays.
=8-)
2. With tires off, you get an excellent view of the brake pads - makes "perfect" pad alignment much easier.
3. With tires off, you get a much more accurate view of the wheel alignment in the rear and front dropouts and stays.
=8-)
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Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
Last edited by mrrabbit; 01-13-12 at 11:40 AM.
#11
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Touch-up tensioning and truing on a stand, in new bike pre sales prep.
just getting things to the last half mm
or major repair wheel well out of good true shape ?
just getting things to the last half mm
or major repair wheel well out of good true shape ?
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someone on here (maybe psimet?) measured a significant spoke tension drop when the tire is installed and inflated. if you true a wheel, a lot of the time it will not stay when you inflate the tire. to skip that step, i just true my wheels with the tires on and inflated.
I take the lazy way; if there's a minor blip, or one spoke loose or broken, leave the tire on. If I've waited too long and the whole wheel is wonky, take the tire off, loosen everything, and start (almost) over.
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You only NEED to remove the tire on a single walled rim as rotation of the nipple can damage the rim strip as it has contact to it and can even damage the tube as well. I will sometimes remove the tire on my wheels even though most are double walled as as I can check for roundness as well as trueness, and it is a bit easier to be precise.
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I have trued a lot of wheels and would not take a tire off if the wheel was off a little bit and could be corrected easily if it was a rim off to the right or left. If the wheel has a bump to it the tire has to come off to remove that. Sometimes you can never get a wheel trued because a rim has had impact to it and is actually bent. time for a new rim.
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It really depends on the wheel. With light weight road rims there is a significant difference in spoke tension with the tire fully inflated as compared to deflated. I have measured a difference of 5 to 7% in spoke tension, and the change in spoke tension does effect the lateral true and dish slightly, about 1/2 mm. When building a wheel I get it as true as possible radially and laterally before mounting the tire and tube. After mounting and inflating I check the wheel again and make whatever adjustments needed in tension, truing, and dishing to make the wheel more accurate at riding pressure. On a rear wheel this usually means tightening the non-drive side spokes slightly to center the rim. My rims are Mavic Open Pro and DT Swiss road rims. YMMV
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Thanks everyone. All the info is greatly appreciated. I also use Mavic Open Pros so next time I end up needing to true one, hopefully not too soon, I will do what you do. I wouldn't have thought there would be that much difference in spoke tension with a fully inflated tire mounted.
thanks
thanks
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