Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Curved handlebars and single-bolt stems....

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Curved handlebars and single-bolt stems....

Old 01-15-12, 05:36 AM
  #1  
Airburst
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: England, currently dividing my time between university in Guildford and home just outside Reading
Posts: 1,921

Bikes: Too many to list here!

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Curved handlebars and single-bolt stems....

I've just taken delivery of a set of On-One Mary handlebars, and on attempting to fit them, they won't go through the stem. Is there some sort of trick for getting them through? It's an alloy stem, which I assume means I can't bend the clamp out slightly, so how do I do it? Do I need a stem with a removeable faceplate?

Thanks in advance
Airburst is offline  
Old 01-15-12, 05:43 AM
  #2  
bobdell
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Lakeland, Fl
Posts: 281
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
You need some calipers to measure the bars and the stem, they may be different sizes. If the size is correct, use a flat blade screwdriver to wedge the opening a bit larger. If you need to spread it more than a small amount, it's wrong.
bobdell is offline  
Old 01-15-12, 05:56 AM
  #3  
LesterOfPuppets
cowboy, steel horse, etc
 
LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Valley of the Sun.
Posts: 34,599

Bikes: everywhere

Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5527 Post(s)
Liked 1,261 Times in 663 Posts
Marys have a pretty tight crimp there after the grip area. What stem you got? A removable faceplate could help. Or at least a stem with a cutout if yours doesn't have one.

No cutout:



With cutout:

LesterOfPuppets is offline  
Old 01-15-12, 06:14 AM
  #4  
Airburst
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: England, currently dividing my time between university in Guildford and home just outside Reading
Posts: 1,921

Bikes: Too many to list here!

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by bobdell View Post
You need some calipers to measure the bars and the stem, they may be different sizes. If the size is correct, use a flat blade screwdriver to wedge the opening a bit larger. If you need to spread it more than a small amount, it's wrong.
The stem is definitely 25.4 mm, as the bars I had before were that size, and fitted perfectly. The Marys are only made in 25.4 and 31.8, and they're certainly not 31.8. I'll borrow some calipers on monday and measure anyway. The problem isn't with the clamp area on the bars, it's with trying to get the curved section of the bars through the stem.

As for what stem it is, it's just a cheap Kalin one, and it hasn't got cutouts. I've got a very similar-looking stem with drop bars in it on another bike, but I didn't fit them, so I don't know how the heck they went in. Looks like I may need a new stem...
Airburst is offline  
Old 01-15-12, 09:44 AM
  #5  
lee kenney
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: B.C.
Posts: 189

Bikes: ritcheys{2** rm blizzard Geo elrick drop frame and acollection of parts bikes in waiting

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
a trick, remove bolt,insert from threaded side ,place a thin metal object in slot. Tighten bolt slightly; this should expand gap .Insert bars. Hope this helps , otherwise new stem
lee kenney is offline  
Old 01-15-12, 09:53 AM
  #6  
Bianchigirll 
Bianchi Goddess
 
Bianchigirll's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 26,933

Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.

Mentioned: 136 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1771 Post(s)
Liked 573 Times in 351 Posts
I would like to see your stem. I am with Lester on this unless you a road style stem you may not be able to get those bars on.
__________________
Bianchis '90 Proto, '90 Campione del Fausto Giamondi Specialisma Italiano Mundo, '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '86 Volpe, '97 Ti Megatube, '93 Reparto Corse SBX

Others but still loved; '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape SLX Bertoni "Speckled Trout"
Bianchigirll is online now  
Old 01-15-12, 10:07 AM
  #7  
JohnDThompson 
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 21,727

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 126 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2251 Post(s)
Liked 647 Times in 435 Posts
Where is it hanging up? At the curve of the drops? If so, the narrowest part of the clamp needs to be on the inside of the curve as you slide the stem on.
JohnDThompson is offline  
Old 01-15-12, 11:16 AM
  #8  
Airburst
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: England, currently dividing my time between university in Guildford and home just outside Reading
Posts: 1,921

Bikes: Too many to list here!

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by lee kenney View Post
a trick, remove bolt,insert from threaded side ,place a thin metal object in slot. Tighten bolt slightly; this should expand gap .Insert bars. Hope this helps , otherwise new stem
I can't get to the back of the threaded side, the hole doesn't go right through.

Here's a link to a very similar looking stem on eBay, I misremembered the name, mine is a Kalloy like the one in the link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALLOY-ROAD...item2313451fb8

The bars are hanging up at the curve right next to the clamp area, here are some pictures of the actual bars https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/HBOOMA/o...mary_handlebar
Airburst is offline  
Old 01-15-12, 11:35 AM
  #9  
Bianchigirll 
Bianchi Goddess
 
Bianchigirll's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 26,933

Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.

Mentioned: 136 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1771 Post(s)
Liked 573 Times in 351 Posts
I think you need a stem with a removable face plate. you can get 25.4 to 31.8 shims so you can keep your bars. of course then there is the issue of finding a 1" quill stem with a 31.8 removable face.

__________________
Bianchis '90 Proto, '90 Campione del Fausto Giamondi Specialisma Italiano Mundo, '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '86 Volpe, '97 Ti Megatube, '93 Reparto Corse SBX

Others but still loved; '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape SLX Bertoni "Speckled Trout"
Bianchigirll is online now  
Old 01-15-12, 11:43 AM
  #10  
LesterOfPuppets
cowboy, steel horse, etc
 
LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Valley of the Sun.
Posts: 34,599

Bikes: everywhere

Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5527 Post(s)
Liked 1,261 Times in 663 Posts
Originally Posted by Airburst View Post
I can't get to the back of the threaded side, the hole doesn't go right through.

Here's a link to a very similar looking stem on eBay, I misremembered the name, mine is a Kalloy like the one in the link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALLOY-ROAD...item2313451fb8
Kalloy has made dozens of models of stems over the years.

Regardless a lot of stems of that style have a narrower clamp area near the bolt. If your stem is in fact tapered like that, then you always want the inside of a bend of the bar facing the bolt. When you go past the first bend near the grip area the bars should be facing forwards with the ends tipped slightly down. When you go past the bend near the clamp area you'll want to have them facing backwards with the ends slightly up.
LesterOfPuppets is offline  
Old 01-15-12, 01:20 PM
  #11  
hueyhoolihan
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Above ground, Walnut Creek, Ca
Posts: 6,681

Bikes: 8 ss bikes, 1 5-speed touring bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
i've had this happen to me a couple of times. and i swore that there was no way the curved area of the bar could get through the stem clamp. i took it to the lbs and in two seconds the mech had it through!

needless to say, i was shocked, and embarrassed. i asked him to remove it, so i could try. after a bit of fiddling and instruction, i had it in. it takes a bit of manipulation that i hadn't attempted, mostly turning the bars in directions that i hadn't tried. this is not to say i KNOW it can work. i might not, but Kalloy has a lot of experience (and a vested interest) in making stems to fit many handlebars. i doubt whether they overlooked this one...
hueyhoolihan is offline  
Old 01-15-12, 03:49 PM
  #12  
Airburst
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: England, currently dividing my time between university in Guildford and home just outside Reading
Posts: 1,921

Bikes: Too many to list here!

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan View Post
i've had this happen to me a couple of times. and i swore that there was no way the curved area of the bar could get through the stem clamp. i took it to the lbs and in two seconds the mech had it through!

needless to say, i was shocked, and embarrassed. i asked him to remove it, so i could try. after a bit of fiddling and instruction, i had it in. it takes a bit of manipulation that i hadn't attempted, mostly turning the bars in directions that i hadn't tried. this is not to say i KNOW it can work. i might not, but Kalloy has a lot of experience (and a vested interest) in making stems to fit many handlebars. i doubt whether they overlooked this one...
What type of bars were you trying to fit? The Mary is a pretty unconventional design, basically, the issue is that it's still at 25.4 mm diameter when it bends, and obviously to fit a bent piece of 25.4mm tubing through a round hole, that hole needs to be quite a bit more than 25.4mm in diameter, which the stem clamp isn't.

I've just ordered a new stem anyway, the only quill stems I could find with removeable faceplates were adjustable ones, which suits me fine, because I have no idea where I want my bars now that they're a different shape, so I'll experiment with this adjustable one and come back to the issue once I know what length stem I want. If the adjustable stem ends up putting the bars in the same position as the old does, I might see if my LBS can get the bars into the current stem.
Airburst is offline  
Old 01-15-12, 03:55 PM
  #13  
LesterOfPuppets
cowboy, steel horse, etc
 
LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Valley of the Sun.
Posts: 34,599

Bikes: everywhere

Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5527 Post(s)
Liked 1,261 Times in 663 Posts
ZOMG, I though for sure they'd taper down before the first bend but looking at pics it appears to be full clamp girth past the first bends and just tapers down to 22.2 before the second bends.

Yerp, that would make removable faceplate an absolute necessity.
LesterOfPuppets is offline  
Old 01-16-12, 03:15 AM
  #14  
dabac
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,219
Mentioned: 43 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 928 Post(s)
Liked 94 Times in 72 Posts
Newer drop bars (often) have much tighter radiuses than old drop bars. I'd say that removable face plates are often required if you want to fit modern bars.
dabac is offline  
Old 01-16-12, 01:19 PM
  #15  
MichaelW
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: England
Posts: 12,948
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Mary has much tighter radii than a typical drop bar so you may not be able to use roadie tricks such as rotating the bar within the stem. You can try forcing the clamp open a bit more. A stem with a narrower lower section helps when rotating to get better passsage. I dont know if that trick works when the stem clamp has parallel edges.
I fitted a Mary to my stem with a removable faceplate: no issues at all and very nice bars.
MichaelW is offline  
Old 09-02-15, 02:59 PM
  #16  
jeremyb
Senior Member
 
jeremyb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 561

Bikes: Raleigh Grand Prix, Cervelo P3alu

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by lee kenney View Post
a trick, remove bolt,insert from threaded side ,place a thin metal object in slot. Tighten bolt slightly; this should expand gap .Insert bars. Hope this helps , otherwise new stem
Genius! Worked for me!

I usually wedge a screwdriver in the stem and pry ---- this worked better and more elegantly!
jeremyb is offline  
Old 09-02-15, 06:25 PM
  #17  
superstring
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 174
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by lee kenney View Post
a trick, remove bolt,insert from threaded side ,place a thin metal object in slot. Tighten bolt slightly; this should expand gap .Insert bars. Hope this helps , otherwise new stem
This IS genius! Too bad I didn't think of it before installing a set of On-One Midge bars on my project bike the other day. I used a pair of circlip pliers to expand the slot and, with the help of my wife and a lot of turning and twisting, finally got the bars installed.
superstring is offline  
Old 09-08-18, 10:15 AM
  #18  
wguild10
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Gracias

Originally Posted by lee kenney View Post
a trick, remove bolt,insert from threaded side ,place a thin metal object in slot. Tighten bolt slightly; this should expand gap .Insert bars. Hope this helps , otherwise new stem
Good tip I will use this in the future.
wguild10 is offline  
Old 09-08-18, 10:25 AM
  #19  
fietsbob
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,278 Times in 798 Posts
Fyi

... 25.4 and 31.8 ...
which means 1" and 1.25" [31.75mm, rounded up 0.05mm]

< lots of 'standards' are metric conversions of fractional (tubing) diameters >
fietsbob is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SANDBORNSTEVE
General Cycling Discussion
6
09-21-17 09:14 PM
Lakerat
Classic & Vintage
11
08-01-16 01:40 PM
AgeOfEmpires
Bicycle Mechanics
9
03-15-16 05:17 PM
robo
Bicycle Mechanics
7
06-08-12 05:39 PM
lobstermike
Bicycle Mechanics
21
12-04-11 02:46 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.