What's the worst part about loving old cantilevers?
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Old thread for sure, but it seems nothing has changed in 10 years. I strongly prefer and only use cantilever brakes, and I have removed V-brakes from bikes in order to replace with cantis. I don't have a big problem getting them adjusted but maybe it's because I've been doing it a while. You definitely get better at it the more you do it. I really like the ability to dial in and tweak the mechanical advantage and modulation.
I see a few comments about Avid Shorty 4s but I have several sets of Shorty 6s and one set of 4s. Maybe they squeal with the Avid-supplied brake pads but I've never tried those. Once in a while the Koolstop pads will give me a slight squeal but nothing serious. I like the performance and adjustability of the Avids, and the low profile is nice. I guess I'd go with the CR720 on my next build.
Plus, c'mon. Everybody knows cantilever brakes look WAY cooler than V-brakes.
I see a few comments about Avid Shorty 4s but I have several sets of Shorty 6s and one set of 4s. Maybe they squeal with the Avid-supplied brake pads but I've never tried those. Once in a while the Koolstop pads will give me a slight squeal but nothing serious. I like the performance and adjustability of the Avids, and the low profile is nice. I guess I'd go with the CR720 on my next build.
Plus, c'mon. Everybody knows cantilever brakes look WAY cooler than V-brakes.
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I don't know if you're being serious, but I find that to be one of the dumber ideas in bicycle design. You can't change the handlebar height without also readjusting the brakes. Who thought that was a good idea? I've had a couple of Trek Singletracks that had that built into the stem. Immediately replaced.
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I don't know if you're being serious, but I find that to be one of the dumber ideas in bicycle design. You can't change the handlebar height without also readjusting the brakes. Who thought that was a good idea? I've had a couple of Trek Singletracks that had that built into the stem. Immediately replaced.
I couldn't figure out a decent alternative setup on this bike, so I had to ride it a few times with no front brakes till I got the bars right, before I ran the cables.
I think the setup I came up with looks pretty slick, with echos of a BMX gyro, especially on a klunker build, with moto bars and a top-loader, but this is a very style -concious build.
Last edited by Ironfish653; 09-05-22 at 10:15 AM.
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I don't know why that became such a staple of 80s and early 90s MTBs; the Ritchey 150mm on that bike is a super nice piece, and the KLEIN MC2 is an icon; they can sell for as much as entire bikes; but yeah, you're pretty much locked into your setup unless you want to re-cable the brakes.
I couldn't figure out a decent alternative setup on this bike, so I had to ride it a few times with no front brakes till I got the bars right, before I ran the cables.
I think the setup I came up with looks pretty slick, with echos of a BMX gyro, especially on a klunker build, with moto bars and a top-loader, but this is a very style -concious build.
I couldn't figure out a decent alternative setup on this bike, so I had to ride it a few times with no front brakes till I got the bars right, before I ran the cables.
I think the setup I came up with looks pretty slick, with echos of a BMX gyro, especially on a klunker build, with moto bars and a top-loader, but this is a very style -concious build.
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I don't think this link has been posted in this thread (which, of course, is an old one...but nonetheless relevant for someone interested in cantilever brakes): canti-geometry.pdf (circleacycles.com)
I found it to be a more complete analysis of the geometry of cantilevers than what the late (and great) Sheldon Brown authored here. That link from circleacycles.com also includes some example MA curves as the brake arms travel through their respective arcs.
I found it to be a more complete analysis of the geometry of cantilevers than what the late (and great) Sheldon Brown authored here. That link from circleacycles.com also includes some example MA curves as the brake arms travel through their respective arcs.
Last edited by hokiefyd; 09-05-22 at 10:32 AM.
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I don't think this link has been posted in this thread (which, of course, is an old one...but nonetheless relevant for someone interested in cantilever brakes): canti-geometry.pdf (circleacycles.com)
I found it to be a more complete analysis of the geometry of cantilevers than what the late (and great) Sheldon Brown authored here. That link from circleacycles.com also includes some example MA curves as the brake arms travel through their respective arcs.
I found it to be a more complete analysis of the geometry of cantilevers than what the late (and great) Sheldon Brown authored here. That link from circleacycles.com also includes some example MA curves as the brake arms travel through their respective arcs.
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I noticed that, too, but all the 1” threaded hangers I found were chromed steel, and just didn’t fit with the aesthetic I was going for with the build. Had to sacrifice practicality for style.
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It's an https:// link rather than the default https:// link and I think the BF editor didn't interpret it correctly the first time. I think it's working now. In case it does not:
https://www.circleacycles.com/cantile...i-geometry.pdf
https://www.circleacycles.com/cantile...i-geometry.pdf
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I overhauled the ShImano cantis that came off a Miyata 610 I picked up used in 1990. Those plastic parts were missing or dying. I improvised a replacement for one brake, tried without on another and somehow got all working like new. Been riding the bike all summer as one of the finest rides I've every had and totally forgot about my jimmying. I run those brakes with a fairly high/long straddle cable and V-brake Tektro levers. Love the setup. Only drawback, miles and thousands of feet of gravel descending got tiring, But I don't do that every day. (And my hands absolutely love those big levers! Every ride. Anytime I go upwind. Long climbs.)
Next week those brakes go to Cycle Oregon and the Painted Hills. On that old Peter Mooney where they replaced the original Mafac cantis right after the 610s first ride in my hands. (Stopping power - those Shimanos and the Mafacs - is identical; same geometry, but the Shimanos make the Mafacs look like shop projects invented from materials on hand.
Next week those brakes go to Cycle Oregon and the Painted Hills. On that old Peter Mooney where they replaced the original Mafac cantis right after the 610s first ride in my hands. (Stopping power - those Shimanos and the Mafacs - is identical; same geometry, but the Shimanos make the Mafacs look like shop projects invented from materials on hand.
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It's an https:// link rather than the default https:// link and I think the BF editor didn't interpret it correctly the first time. I think it's working now. In case it does not:
https://www.circleacycles.com/cantile...i-geometry.pdf
https://www.circleacycles.com/cantile...i-geometry.pdf
Last edited by jadmt; 09-05-22 at 11:50 AM.
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This is a fluorescent orange Klein with moto bars and BMX wheels ; it’s my “Rad” bike, not my commuter.
I have enough bikes that I can have one that’s just for having fun and making a statement.
