Freehub sticks
 

I have a mid 80s Bianchi Sport with a 5 speed uniglide freehub. I went to go for a ride today and freehub starting sticking when I tried to coast. I took the wheel off the bike and ran some light oil into the freehub body. I got it to spin free except when the wheel is standing up with the valve stem near the bottom, then it will stop. I am assuming the freehub is toast. I see a couple Uniglide 5-speed freehubs on Ebay. Also according to Sheldon Brown I can replace it with a Hyperglide freehub. Rear dropout spacing is 125 mm. It has shimano "Z" components. I know its silly but I would kinda like to keep all that original. What are my options if I replace it with a Hyperglide freehub?

if you go with the Hyperglide freehub then you need a 6 speed cassette, they don't make a 5 speed for this. they go from 6 - 10 gears , it is nice to keep it original when all possible in my book .it is normal for a wheel when it stop spinning for it to stop with the valve at the bottom. try flushing out with WD-40 and spin the body when you do and after it dry then try oiling it again .

Thanks for responding. When I say it stops, I mean it will be freely spinning then jerk to a hard stop at the same place every time. I'm sure it needs replacing. It's probably the original freehub. I picked the bike up for $20 at a thrift store and put about 1500 miles on it this year. It's actually a better fit than my nice bike. What I didn't know was if a 6 speed would work with my RD, a friction Shimano "Z" series. Or 7 speed for that matter. Also 125 mm rear dropouts. Thanks again.

5, 6, 7, 8-speed... all will work with friction shifters. 126mm dropout width is standard for most 6- or 7-speed hubs. Replacing the wheel with a generic replacement wheel and an 8-speed cassette may be the cheapest and most expedient path forward, but will require spreading the rear triangle to 130mm. 7-speed cassette hubs are virtually extinct.

If it were my bike, I'd be rebuilding the rear hub and really cleaning out the freehub body. Shimano hubs of that vintage were cheap, but almost indestructible.

I don't think a 6 speed Hyperglide cassette ever existed but I could be wrong. 5 and 6 speed Uniglide Freehub bodies and cassettes are very difficult to find these days, but 7 speed is alive and well. There are plenty of 7S hubs on ebay (some NOS, and pretty cheap) that you could take a body from and transplant onto your hub. As long as you don't have a REALLY old Uniglide hub: http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#up7 (scroll to bottom)


+1

Take the body off, pull any seals and really flush the thing out before buying a new one.

Are you sure it's a freehub/cassette system, or is it possibly a 5s uniglide freewheel mounted on a threaded hub?

Given the generation, I suspect it might be the latter, in which case you're in luck.

Sticky freewheels almost bounce back of they're removed, soaked in solvent (kerosene, mineral spirits, turpentine, etc.) dried than have a bit of oil dribbled in though the gap between the inner and outer bodies.

If you're not sure, one hint is the shape of the hub between the flanges. Freehubs have a bulge inside of the right flange, whereas spin-on hubs are symmetrical between the flanges.

FBinNY, you are right it is a freewheel. I was about to get a 2nd chainwhip to remove the last cog, LOL. I'll tear it apart and soak it after work. Thanks for all the responses guys!

if that doesn't solve the problem, then you can replace the freewheel with another. Sun Race, IRD, Shimano....6 speed recommended.

Unless the OP respaces his hub and redishes the wheel, he's limited to a 5 speed, or ultra 6 (6s with 7s spacing). Depending on the hub's current freewheel spacing, he might need to add 1-2mm on the right for a 6U freewheel, but not enough to redish the wheel.

Redish and 7spd, IMO.

If you're pushing a 42t (as you almost certainly are on an 80s bike), you'll find a 16t cog a boon. The gap between 17t and 15t is a PITA.

I tore the freewheel down and found the round retainer/spring that hold the pawls was broken. I'll replace the freewheel. I'll probably stick with a 5 speed. It's currently crossover gearing, if I find a better set then I will have more gears anyway.

I replaced the freewheel and now I hear a click when I pedal under pressure. I noticed a bit of play between the freewheel and body. I'm pretty sure that's where it's coming from. Is it worth it to tear the freewheel down and try to remove the play?

In a word no.

It's not likely that the freewheel play is the source of the noise since under load freewheels lock up and there are no moving parts. It might be related to the older chain on a new freewheel.

OTOH if the freewheel play bothers you, even if it doesn't matter, you can open it up. Freewheels aren't built with adjustability, but some use shims under the outer bearing race, and removing one may tighten it up. However, be warned that the makers are usually pretty good about the shims, and usually removing one on a new freewheel will make it too tight. I'd leave it alone, except for maybe running some heavier oil into it.

Thanks, I noticed the shims on the old freewheel, I'll ride it for a while and if it really bothers me I'll check it out. I'm being kinda picky anyway.

Did you replace the chain too? New sprockets + worn chain will almost always cause clicking and eventually the chain will jump across the teeth. It's almost certainly not the freewheel.