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is my only option a new hub??

Old 12-16-04, 02:39 AM
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motion5447
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is my only option a new hub??

Im building up a new surly LHT and from parts from a old kona jake. I just found out that the rear hub needs to be 135mm MTB and not the sora road hub that came with the wheel. Does any one know of some options besides totally dismantling the wheel??
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Old 12-16-04, 04:57 AM
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You just need to replace your rear axle and add some spacers. You'll probably need an axle that is 146mm long. If you're lucky, you might be able to score a MB rear wheel with trashed rim and scrounge hub innerds from that. Good luck!
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Old 12-16-04, 07:38 PM
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thanks
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Old 12-16-04, 08:23 PM
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Not sure I'd trust a Sora hub with 250 lbs of rider and gear on a long tour, though.
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Old 12-16-04, 09:23 PM
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Why not? Its the same sized innerds as the low end mtb.
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Old 12-17-04, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by mtbikerinpa
Why not? Its the same sized innerds as the low end mtb.
It's not designed for that. It designed for very low cost entry level road bikes that become garage ornaments or get traded for something better if the buyer gets the bug. Maybe it'll be fine. I haven't torn down Sora and LX hubs and done a lab comparison of the bearing quality, materials quality and machining tolerances, but knowing the different design parameters, I'd be leary.

I used to repair light industrial machinery for a living and I know that making do with low end parts working outside their design parameters leads to more frequent repairs and lower reliability. Not exactly the kind of thing you want on a touring rig.

I'm sure there will be lots of Sora owners crying foul over this comment so I'll offer my apologies in advance.
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Old 12-17-04, 12:18 AM
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Oh, and not to mention that the road spacing means slightly more dish and slightly less wheel strength.
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Old 12-17-04, 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by halfspeed
Oh, and not to mention that the road spacing means slightly more dish and slightly less wheel strength.
But the original question had to do with making the hub into mountain spaceing - slightly less dish and slightly more wheel strength. Besides, for the time being at least, his objective seems to be to build up his bike to the greatest extent possible using parts that he owns now. If it was my bike, I'd modify the Sora rear wheel in a heartbeat and worry about acquiring a better touring wheel later.
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Old 12-17-04, 06:05 AM
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I had this exact conversation with a bike mechanic today. He told me that the real difference in a LX spec compared to sora hub is the outer casing. MTN needs a strong spot to grab the spokes at, and road needs low weight. Shimanos lower range use a lot of the same specs as maybey a LX a few years back. So, i guess really for now when all i want to do is ride, i'll put an axel in and make it into a 135mm.

But with all the gear on, im definately doing it the strongest way possible. I can just imagine breaking a hub is some small backwater town, and having to come across an LX at some insane price and wait around for the "guy who knows how to build wheels" stop buy.
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Old 12-17-04, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by motion5447
Im building up a new surly LHT and from parts from a old kona jake. I just found out that the rear hub needs to be 135mm MTB and not the sora road hub that came with the wheel. Does any one know of some options besides totally dismantling the wheel??
Put ~5mm of spacers on the non-drive side of the Sora hub and redish the wheel. You can put in a new 146mm axle or use the current 141mm axle. 141mm is plenty long for a 135mm OLD hub. It will give you ~3mm on each side. I've spaced a 126mm hub out to 130mm without changing the 137mm axle and it's worked great for years. Obviously if you stick with the 141mm axle, you still have to recenter it.
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Old 12-17-04, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
But the original question had to do with making the hub into mountain spaceing - slightly less dish and slightly more wheel strength.
True enough.
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Old 12-17-04, 09:12 AM
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There is NOTHING wrong with Sora. It exists because not everyone wants to get bent over by Dura Ace prices. I know a LOT of people who have put thousands of trouble free miles on Sora groups. Just cause you are a parts snob doesn't make you right.
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Old 12-17-04, 09:20 AM
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Actually, I'd be =less= comfortable using Dura Ace for the job at hand than Sora. Dura Ace isn't designed for touring loads either plus it costs an arm and a leg.
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Old 12-17-04, 01:04 PM
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Or you can move both cone nuts out 2.5 mm, insert 2.5 mm spacers on both side and not have to fool with redishing.
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