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Lube Cassette or Not?
My LBS says that one does not lubricate the cassette. A book on bicycle maintenance that I have read recommends lubing the rear cassette with a dry lube. Does one lube or not lube the cassette? Thanks.
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The reason the cassette (and older freewheels) are rarely lubed is because they are never under load when they are spinning. No load = little or no wear.
Having said that, yes I do dissassemble freewheels and lube the bearings with marine axle grease, no I do not disassemble cassettes but I will put a few drops of "Tri-Flow" in them on occasion. Enjoy |
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Okay, I think there may be a little confusion here on what skydive is asking: are you asking whether or not to lube the cogs (the sprockets, visible part of the cassette), or whether or not to lube the bearings which allow the cassette to coast.
Maybe the LBS is saying, "DON'T lube the cogs" (that would just gunk them up, the chain is what needs to be lubed, lubing the cogs wouldn't get much lubricant to the parts of the chain that need it). And maybe the book is saying "DO lube the bearings" (although I can't imagine they'd need it often) |
Maybe I need clarification. Are we talking about the bearing mechanism inside the free-wheel / free-hub, or are we discussing putting lubrication on the sprockets?
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I think Sydney was saying not to lube the cogs, and powers2b was saying yes, lube the bearings, here's how.
See above post :) |
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But you're supposed to lube freewheels at least with a dry lube. I brought a seized freewheel to a very knowledgeable LBS, and they got it spinning again with some dry lube sprayed into the bearings. Suggested doing it every year or so. You're probably gonna tell me it's different for freehubs :rolleyes: I don't have any experience with seized/noisy/underlubed freehubs... |
To further muddy these troubled waters, I read skydive's question as meaning, "When installing a cassette, should one lube the interface between the cassette and the freehub body?" The answer to that is also no. There is no need for it. Nor is it necessary to lube the threads of the cassette lockring.
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I say don't lube the cogs. Basically the chain doesn't really slide against the tooth when it engages (at least on a new, unworn chain, and new sprockets). The chain roller falls perfectly between the teeth.
Since there is no rubbing between the chain and the teeth, no lubrication is needed. The place where lube is needed is on the rollers or pins of the chain, because they rub as they flex. That is what causes the chain to elongate because the moving parts get worn. My understanding is that the sprockets will only experience significant wear if the chain elongates. Consequently, if you replace the chain when it gets .5% too long, your sprockets won't wear out for a really really long time. I have read Jobst Brandt's article and some Sheldon Brown articles on the topic. That is my interpretation of them. |
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Even though it is not considered a moving surface, I still dismantle and clean my cassette cogs frequently (I took the pins out a long time ago for custom ratios) and use a liberal coat of car wax on them(not the mounting surface) this keeps them a little slippery as well as moisture resistant. Polished cogs work nicely.
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Skydive,
My wife and I were cruising around central Florida and passed through Lake Mary. We stopped for gas and I figured I would find out where the lake was and go have a look. I asked the guy where the lake was and he looked at me like I had lost my mind and said "There's no lake around here." So, does Lake Mary have a lake? I never did find one. |
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I spray mine with lube whenever I lube my chain. I only relube the drivetrain after muddy rides that require me to spray the bike down before bringing it in. I find it helps prevent rust if nothing else.
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A dit magnet or not, it is still a sliding surface. If one keeps with the constant cleaning and replenishing of a minor film then it is a non issue.
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it's a sliding surface when shifting, so it does make some sense to lightly lube it.
I really don't worry about it myself and jsut lube my chain, and let the oil cross-lubricate any cogs it goes by. |
I have been thought back in the 70:ties that a freewheel mechanism should never be oiled because the fat sticky grease inside is supposed to last the lifetime of the freewheel. And if oiled then the oil will dissolve the fat, ok it will work, but you have to oil the freewheel quite often.
NB. It was a long time ago I read this in a old book so I might got details wrong but the overall picture is, do not oil cause then you have to do it again and again. Leave the grease in it. |
Now that I am clear on the subject let me add the following:
It is not advisable to lube the cogs themselves. In fact it is advisable to keep the cogs as clean as possible. The reason is that a cog with lube on it will attract dirt. The dirt will become lodged between the chain roller and cog tooth while the chain is under load. This makes a very effective grinder. Over time (shorter than you may think) the loaded face of the cog will become misshapen from wear. It is for this same reason it is advisable to wipe the outer surface of the chain thoroughly after lubrication. Enjoy |
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