Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Sram crank/ultegra cassette

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Sram crank/ultegra cassette

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-11-12, 02:26 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 51
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sram crank/ultegra cassette

I will be installing a double Sram double crank/68 gxp bb and using an Ultegra 6700 10 speed cassette on my setup this season (all the other components are Ultegra 6700). I have researched as for compatibility and that setup seems fine. The only thing I could not find out is if you can install the gxp bb as is or do you need to use shims/spacers under the bb cups to have to have the correct chainline between the Sram crank/rings and the Ultegra 6700 cassette? Thanks
cyclekolo is offline  
Old 02-11-12, 02:50 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,689

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5772 Post(s)
Liked 2,564 Times in 1,420 Posts
I can't answer the specific BB question. But chain line is chainline and the brand of cassette or crank doesn't change that since the cassette position is determined by the frame's dropout width, and the crank must line up with that.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 02-11-12, 03:11 PM
  #3  
AEO
Senior Member
 
AEO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Posts: 12,257

Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
GXP BB is designed for 73mm BB shells, so the spacers are necessary for 68mm shells.

if you don't use the spacers, either of two things can happen: a) the threads will bottom out, or b) your right side will sit further outside, because the cranks are aligned to the left side.
__________________
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
AEO is offline  
Old 02-11-12, 03:38 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 51
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the replies. AEO- would you be able to tell me the amount of spacers and their thickness (should it total 5mm to make up the difference between the 68 and 73) and which side to install (drive non drive) them on to? Thanks
cyclekolo is offline  
Old 02-11-12, 03:53 PM
  #5  
AEO
Senior Member
 
AEO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: A Coffin Called Earth. or Toronto, ON
Posts: 12,257

Bikes: Bianchi, Miyata, Dahon, Rossin

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
you put one 2.5mm spacer on each side. It's on the poorly written documentation that comes with the GXP BB package.

or it should be like that, at least. The manual is poorly written, like I've said. I had to use one 2.5mm spacer on each side with my truvativ touro triple with a 68mm shell.
__________________
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
AEO is offline  
Old 02-11-12, 06:51 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 208
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by AEO
GXP BB is designed for 73mm BB shells, so the spacers are necessary for 68mm shells.

if you don't use the spacers, either of two things can happen: a) the threads will bottom out, or b) your right side will sit further outside, because the cranks are aligned to the left side.
This is true for a triple or MTB crank, but not a road double. You do not use spacers for a road double, if you did, when you tighten down the crank arm the crank will not spin because the chain ring side will bottom out on the bearing.

GXP is designed such that lateral position (chainline) is determined by the capturing the left side bearing between the spindle and left crank arm. The right side bearing floats on the axle to allow for frame width variation.

OP, you should assemble with no spacers and check the chainline, If for some reason, you need to shift the chain line to the left you can put a spacer between the left side bearing and frame. I have built many bikes with SRAM double cranks and GXP bottom brackets and have never required a spacer.
vettracer is offline  
Old 02-11-12, 09:22 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
pat5319's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 1,148

Bikes: Seven Axiom Ti, Trek 620, Masi cylocross (steel). Masi Souleville 8spd, Fat Chance Mtn. (steel), Schwinn Triple Bar cruiser, Mazi Speciale Fix/single, Schwinn Typhoon

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
no issues, don't use the shimano spacer if you have one
pat5319 is offline  
Old 02-12-12, 09:18 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 51
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by vettracer
This is true for a triple or MTB crank, but not a road double. You do not use spacers for a road double, if you did, when you tighten down the crank arm the crank will not spin because the chain ring side will bottom out on the bearing.

GXP is designed such that lateral position (chainline) is determined by the capturing the left side bearing between the spindle and left crank arm. The right side bearing floats on the axle to allow for frame width variation.

OP, you should assemble with no spacers and check the chainline, If for some reason, you need to shift the chain line to the left you can put a spacer between the left side bearing and frame. I have built many bikes with SRAM double cranks and GXP bottom brackets and have never required a spacer.
Ok. I have the crank on, no spacers, torqued and spining nicely without any lateral movement. I just have one more question now, and that is how to properly check the chain line? Thanks all for taking time to answer my questions.
cyclekolo is offline  
Old 02-12-12, 10:07 AM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: boston, ma
Posts: 2,896
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by AEO
you put one 2.5mm spacer on each side. It's on the poorly written documentation that comes with the GXP BB package.

or it should be like that, at least. The manual is poorly written, like I've said. I had to use one 2.5mm spacer on each side with my truvativ touro triple with a 68mm shell.
only use spacers for mtn crank. the spindles are different lengths between mtn and road. not so much poorly documented but the bb is the same between road and mtn
reptilezs is offline  
Old 02-12-12, 10:20 AM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 208
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by cyclekolo
Ok. I have the crank on, no spacers, torqued and spining nicely without any lateral movement. I just have one more question now, and that is how to properly check the chain line? Thanks all for taking time to answer my questions.
It seems like you have it together correctly,chain line shouldn't be a problem. If you want to check it, the chain line should be 44.5mm from the center of the down tube to the center between the two chain rings.
vettracer is offline  
Old 02-12-12, 07:23 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 51
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by vettracer
It seems like you have it together correctly,chain line shouldn't be a problem. If you want to check it, the chain line should be 44.5mm from the center of the down tube to the center between the two chain rings.
I meassured the chain line as accurately as possible and it seems very close to that of 44.5mm. Thanks again for your help.
cyclekolo is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Teamprovicycle
Bicycle Mechanics
0
06-12-19 04:20 PM
mister5
Road Cycling
1
02-04-15 11:29 AM
nthach
Bicycle Mechanics
12
02-23-11 12:11 PM
prebsy
Road Cycling
5
11-26-10 07:23 PM
Niskyspy
Bicycle Mechanics
6
10-20-10 01:16 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.