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Cannot fit rear wheel into dropouts after tire/tube change

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Cannot fit rear wheel into dropouts after tire/tube change

Old 02-11-12, 07:01 PM
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Goriot
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Cannot fit rear wheel into dropouts after tire/tube change

Hey guys,
Long time since I've been on here-
Recently had a bad rear flat on my trek 7.3fx, over glass. Both the tire and tube were gone. I found the stock bontrager tire that came with the bike and put it on the wheel with a new tube easily.
Now, I can't for the life of me get the wheel back into the dropouts. Its about 1cm away from the perfect fit, but just won't go the extra last bit.
fyi I removed the wheel in the wrong gear, and corrected this only afterwards. Brakes are open. I'm not sure what to do next.

So two questions:
1. How do you get the rear wheel to fit snug in the dropouts?
2. Is it alright to use two different tires, both are 700x32.

Thanks
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Old 02-11-12, 07:45 PM
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Are you saying that you can't get it into the dropouts? Some bikes need to have the tire deflated when installing. You inflate it once it's on. I know, not great, but that's the way it is.

If not the above: If you have gotten it into the dropout, are you saying that it's not lining up right or something? A better explanation or a picture may help.

-G
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Old 02-11-12, 08:21 PM
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No matter how I play with the derailleur I can't move it in. The tire is fully inflated, I will try to deflate.
Thanks.
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Old 02-11-12, 08:32 PM
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First thing, shift the lever to high gear and put the chain onto the smallest sprocket. This eliminates any chance that the RD position and sprocket don't match. It also improves clearance past the hanger on some bikes.

Then, I prefer to work right side up with the wheel on the floor. I pull the wheel back, jiggle it and push the frame down onto the axle. The other issue might (but shouldn't) be that the frame is a bit narrower than the axle and needs to be spread slightly when you put the wheel in.

Try the above and come back with results.
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Old 02-11-12, 08:59 PM
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Maybe try opening up the skewer?
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Old 02-11-12, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by AlphaDogg View Post
Maybe try opening up the skewer?
He's doing this without the skewer in place.
Wonder if the frame is a bit narrow, as suggested by FBinNY.
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Old 02-11-12, 10:20 PM
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It could be a bit narrow some bikes are 132.5 mm so you can fit a 130mm hub or a 135mm hub.

So spread the dropouts apart when installing.
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Old 02-11-12, 10:42 PM
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Just place the non drive side into the chain stay put your thumb on the cassatte and fingers on the inside of the drive side stay and push the stay will move out slihtly and drop in.
The frame seems to be slightly narrower than the wheel for some reason not a big deal.
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Old 02-12-12, 12:16 PM
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The wheel is in; I did it with the bike upright, little bit of pull on the wheel and spreading the dropouts. Weird because I've never had this problem before. This rear change was tough...
Just took it out for a quick spin, seems to be in nice, frictionless spinning- however with all the stress I put on the DR during the repair, I'm noticing that its now lagging when I switch gears by one/two revolutions... suggestions?
Also, I imagine its no big deal to have two separate tires on?
Thanks for the help.
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Old 02-12-12, 12:18 PM
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Not a big deal to have two different tires on, as long as they're relatively the same width. Did you bend your derailleur cage or hanger?
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Old 02-12-12, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Goriot View Post
I'm noticing that its now lagging when I switch gears by one/two revolutions... suggestions?
Also, I imagine its no big deal to have two separate tires on?
.
No issue with unmatched tires, that only counts when tires on the same axle of a car don't match. Front/rear non-matches are common in all kinds of vehicles, bikes, cars, trucks, etc.

Odds are the RD is a bit out of trim. First make sure it's all the way forward to the stop, then fine tune the shifting/trim with the cable adjuster.

BTW- I don't know if it made a difference or not, but if you get in the habit of always shifting to high to remove or install wheels it'll be a bit easier, and you'll never have to guess which sprocket to put the chain on.
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Old 02-12-12, 05:00 PM
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Since you have vertical dropouts, like most modern bikes, always mount the bike to the wheel with the wheel on the ground and the bike right-side-up. The wheel axle needs to be fully seated in the dropouts.
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Old 02-12-12, 07:26 PM
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I did a little more tuning, and took it out for a good 30km hill ride, it did the trick. I then went to LBS, and obviously DR has some problems, wheels out of true, chain worn out etc, so now its getting early spring tune up anyways =)

Now to focus attention on the road bike.
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Old 02-12-12, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Goriot View Post
Hey guys,
Is it alright to use two different tires, both are 700x32.
Despite the fact most folks don't realise it, it makes perfect sense to use a size smaller on the front.

There's less weight on it.
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Old 10-01-12, 12:05 AM
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Last night I, too, was unable to fit my rear wheel back into its drop-outs. It turned out that when I had removed the wheel and had completely unscrewed the drive-side nut, dropping the spring coil to the floor, I had replaced the coil backwards. The wide end of the coil was facing toward the cassette, and blocked the wheel from fitting into the drop-out. I'm new at this. Someone pointed out the reversal, put the coil in the right way (narrow end inward), and voila! Back on the road.
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Old 10-01-12, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Goriot View Post
I imagine its no big deal to have two separate tires on?
OMG DON'T DO IT!!!





Actually, front/rear specific makes a lot of sense. Skinnier on the front for the road, fatter/more aggressive tread on the front offroad.
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Old 10-01-12, 05:05 AM
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This problem is sometimes seen when narrow pannier racks are installed. Had a rack fitted since the last time the wheel came out?

- Joel
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