7 speed freewheels
#1
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7 speed freewheels
I'm thinking of adding a cog.Always used 6 speed 14-28 frewheel and now thought I'd switch to 7 speed.Whats the downside to 14-34.Is it less smooth shifting or riding?!3-28?Or just stick to 14-28 with an extra cog?
#2
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trek330, The switch to free hubs came about, IIRC, to prevent breaking axles. I'd prefer adding a gear somewhere in the more used range unless you need something at either top or bottom.
Brad
Brad
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Trek330 why do you want another cog? First to get a 7spd FW on you hub you may need to repace and redish it Are you looking for a lower (easier) gear? Is you bike index shifting or friction? if friction your OK if index you need to switch to friction or upgrade shifters.
Going from a 14-28 to a 14-34 will most likely require a sitch to a long cage rear derailleur to take up the extra chain wrap. Also since the jump between teeth is large shifting will not be as smooth.
A bit of info on your current setup and or pics would be helpful
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You only gain the 22 cog going from 14-28 6 spd to 14-34 7 spd. IMO a waste of a hole.... and as noted.. the chg to a long cage derailer.
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OH I see in my earlier post I did not specifically ask the OP if he was looking to gain a lower gear or just wanted 7spds for some random reason.
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28-40 gets me up my 1/3 mi 12 degree grade hill.. I can make it with the 26-42 also. A good hill climber I am not.
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The 7-speed may overhang the locknut a slight bit so a thin spacer may be needed to let the chain clear the dropout face but the overall width change will be minimal and redishing should not be required.
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The width of a 7-speed freewheel is nearly identical to a standard spaced 6-speed freewheel and they both require 126 mm OLD hubs so the axle is in no additional danger from this change.
The 7-speed may overhang the locknut a slight bit so a thin spacer may be needed to let the chain clear the dropout face but the overall width change will be minimal and redishing should not be required.
The 7-speed may overhang the locknut a slight bit so a thin spacer may be needed to let the chain clear the dropout face but the overall width change will be minimal and redishing should not be required.
No axle issues.
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I've been using 7-speed freewheels for years and haven't had any broken axle problems. I wouldn't worry about that.
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If your bike is indeed a 330 and has the original rear derailler a 28 tooth cog may be the limit. If you are wanting the 34 for lower gearing you have the alternative to change cranksets to use a 50/34. 52/42 is probably the original chainrings. That original crankset can only take a 38 as the smallest chain ring.
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If your bike is indeed a 330 and has the original rear derailler a 28 tooth cog may be the limit. If you are wanting the 34 for lower gearing you have the alternative to change cranksets to use a 50/34. 52/42 is probably the original chainrings. That original crankset can only take a 38 as the smallest chain ring.
#13
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Phil Wood Co's freewheel hubs solve the broken axle issue, but there is the cog plane wobble.
Friction shift is not fussy, the 'Center-on' pulley has side-play to make that less of an issue,
in klick shift schemes.
Friction shift is not fussy, the 'Center-on' pulley has side-play to make that less of an issue,
in klick shift schemes.
#14
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Thread Starter
What does cassette/freehubs have to do with the OPs question?
Trek330 why do you want another cog? First to get a 7spd FW on you hub you may need to repace and redish it Are you looking for a lower (easier) gear? Is you bike index shifting or friction? if friction your OK if index you need to switch to friction or upgrade shifters.
Going from a 14-28 to a 14-34 will most likely require a sitch to a long cage rear derailleur to take up the extra chain wrap. Also since the jump between teeth is large shifting will not be as smooth.
A bit of info on your current setup and or pics would be helpful
Trek330 why do you want another cog? First to get a 7spd FW on you hub you may need to repace and redish it Are you looking for a lower (easier) gear? Is you bike index shifting or friction? if friction your OK if index you need to switch to friction or upgrade shifters.
Going from a 14-28 to a 14-34 will most likely require a sitch to a long cage rear derailleur to take up the extra chain wrap. Also since the jump between teeth is large shifting will not be as smooth.
A bit of info on your current setup and or pics would be helpful
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What was the OEM crank on a Trek 330? Many older bikes came with 110 mm BCD cranks even if geared 52/42 so a 34T chainring could be used on them. My '92 Trek 1420 came with a Shimano DX (yes, DX, not LX) triple crank with 110/74 bcds and my son's '86 Panasonic Sports 100 came with an SR 110 bcd double crank.
#17
Really Old Senior Member
In my somewhat limited experience I haven't seen a broken axle on a FW hub.
OTOH, the majority I've seen have a bent axle.
OTOH, the majority I've seen have a bent axle.
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