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new bike, worth getting wheels retensioned immediately?

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new bike, worth getting wheels retensioned immediately?

Old 03-02-12, 06:19 AM
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new bike, worth getting wheels retensioned immediately?

Got myself a new commuter bike.

Alex ID19 rims, 14G spokes, Shimano 2200 hubs. 32 spokes front and rear.

Heard a couple of pings from the wheels when I took it around the block.

Worth $40 for the local lbs to check the wheels before I start commuting to lower the chances of busted spokes, or should I wait a bit and bring them in after a couple of hundred miles?

Both of my last bikes were used and had already gone through a break-in period. Never touched the wheels in 15+ years. so this new bike things is, err, new to me.

-B

Last edited by Beanboy; 03-02-12 at 06:41 AM.
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Old 03-02-12, 06:45 AM
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i would bring it to a shop and see what work they need. prob check the cones too
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Old 03-02-12, 06:51 AM
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Unfornetly final true and tension on bike wheels is considered dealer prep and a lot of dealers just don't do it. If the bike is new I would take it back to where you brought it and see if you can get them to do it for free. If that doesn't work maybe you should just buy a spoke wrench and carefully tighten each spoke about a half of turn checking to see if they are all tight. I have Alex -19 rims on one of my bikes and they are very forgiving rims that seem to run true no bings or noises if all the spokes are somewhat tight.
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Old 03-02-12, 07:33 AM
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If all you heard was the pings and the wheels are still fairly true ride it about 30 or so miles before returnig it for adjustment, unless the wheels are grossly out of true. Wheels are living things I have heard wheels with hundreds of miles ping after a light truing.

Is this a new bike from a shop? If so go back and have it adjusted. If it is something you bought off line you still should take it to a shop.
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Old 03-02-12, 09:29 AM
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If you bought the bike new from the LBS, having the wheels checked for true, tension and hub adjustment should be included in their service. If you bought it mail-order, I'd pay the $40 to assure long wheel life.
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Old 03-02-12, 09:33 AM
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Go to an LBS...be willing to pay an extra 8.00-12.00 per wheel:

(About 20 minutes work each wheel)

1. Squeeze all spokes very hard.
2. Drop of oil in gap between each nipple and rim hole.
3. Tension true and dish.
4. Stress relieving for each cycle and when finished - 2 pairs of parallel spoke squeezing is good enough - two rotations of wheel each time.
5. Aim for 95-100 kgf front and around 110 kgf rear drive side.

=8-)
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Old 03-02-12, 11:44 AM
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yea, LBS build should include the assembly work, including checking the machine built wheels.
Bikes Direct you have to get it done yourself.

Commuting regularly, have the wheel tension maintained. it doesn't stay 'good enough'
being ridden, daily, for months..

Last edited by fietsbob; 03-02-12 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 03-02-12, 12:10 PM
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Bought the bike on closeout a couple of hours from home. 2010 leftover, so 45% below retail. Cheaper than online (best I found was $450) and actually got to ride the bike first.

Jamis Coda Sport.

I'm gonna swing on by the lbs tomorrow, $40 for piece-of-mind before fatiguing any of the spokes makes sense to me. Want to grab some new tape for the bar ends I am swapping over anyway.
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Old 03-02-12, 12:20 PM
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There are two false assumptions here - that factory wheels are all undertensioned, and in this case that the dealer didn't do a final touchup true before delivery.

Of course, both could be true, but why assume the worst without confirming. In fact the pinging would indicate some recent work, probably a final touch up that's settling out. I'd ride it a short while, probably the entire 30 days up to the usually first tune up for the bike, then have the dealer check and correct the wheels.

To that I'd add doing some of what mrrabbit suggested now, especially because it's a commuter. Apply a drop of oil, or oil/solvent mix, or something like Boeing T9 to each spoke hole and spin it in to prevent salt from lodging there and attacking the rims over time. Stress relieve the spokes as described by squeezing the crossed pairs. This will also give you an indication of the build quality since a poorly built wheel may go out of true when you do this. Then if all is still good, ride it as long as it stays that way, or until the 30 day check whichever is sooner.
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Old 03-02-12, 01:53 PM
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Our tandem dealer has been known to miss a few details, but our new Rolf wheels were pinging when we first got it. He took it around the block and leaned it hard to see if there were specific issues, then pulled the wheels and checked some things, then put it together and sent us on our way. He said the pinging will go away in 3 miles. Sure enough, 2.5 miles later it disappeared.
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Old 03-02-12, 02:34 PM
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When my wife's 5200 Trek was brand new the first thing I did was put the wheels on my truing stand. The Bontrager wheels needed some truing and the spoke tension was all over the place. Some spokes were dangerously low in tension.

I would have the dealer check your wheels closely.
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Old 03-02-12, 03:37 PM
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Factory machine built? Yep. Get 'em checked..
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Old 03-03-12, 05:14 PM
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So, stopped by my lbs today.

Here are the results:

--Front wheel wasn't bad, didn't take much to get it up to spec.
--The rear wheel tension was all over the place (mostly low) and the rim wasn't centered around the hub.

Charged $20, and threw in some handlebar end caps for free when I mentioned I am putting my old bar ends onto the new bike, and needed to cut the ends of the grips off.

Whether or not I needed to spend $20 for the work done, not sure. But feel better starting off knowing the wheels should be in good shape.

If anybody cares, will update this thread in a couple of weeks once I get a couple of hundred miles on the wheels. Thanks again for the advice folks.

-B

Last edited by Beanboy; 03-03-12 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 03-03-12, 10:59 PM
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Is the "pinging" from new wheels the sound of
A. twisted spokes untwisting at the surface of the spoke and nipple threads
B. Spoke threads "settling into position within the mating nipple threads
C. Spoke nipple heads settling into place within the rim sockets
D. Crossing spokes rubbing against each other

I suspect it's A or D. Either way, I've never heard a properly stressed and stress-relieved wheel make the sound. But if you do additional tensioning without following up with another stress/relieving process you can still get "PINGING".
You get the same sound when you're tightening a nipple on an un-lubed spoke thread at higher tensions. The nipple sticks on the threads, the spoke turns counterclockwise along with the nipple until the point where the turning force overcomes the friction and, "PING", the spoke untwists withing the nipple.
This is why stress relieving by using leverage against crossing spokes can produce the same sound. You're temporarily increasing the tension on the spoke. If it's twisted, the force of the tension overcomes the friction withing the spoke/nipple thread and the counterclockwise-twisted spoke "jumps" back clockwise while the nipple remains in its position. The sound is more like a loud, sharp "TICK" because the wrench and your hand is muting the resonance.

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Old 03-03-12, 11:28 PM
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A proper built wheel should not make "pinging" noises. Well, maybe the first mile at most, after that something is wrong. I stress-relieve then re-tension about 4x during a wheel build. In fact I use the pinging noise as an indicator as to when to STOP stress relieving! Only built two wheels, but neither made as much as a squeak after building.

I would say you made a good choice and gave the wheels attention now. Properly tensioned and trued spokes are a wonderful thing
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Old 03-04-12, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Beanboy
So, stopped by my lbs today.

Here are the results:

--Front wheel wasn't bad, didn't take much to get it up to spec.
--The rear wheel tension was all over the place (mostly low) and the rim wasn't centered around the hub.

Charged $20, and threw in some handlebar end caps for free when I mentioned I am putting my old bar ends onto the new bike, and needed to cut the ends of the grips off.

Whether or not I needed to spend $20 for the work done, not sure. But feel better starting off knowing the wheels should be in good shape.

If anybody cares, will update this thread in a couple of weeks once I get a couple of hundred miles on the wheels. Thanks again for the advice folks.

-B
Good to read you got things taken care of. Also this is a very low fair price for LBS work the shops in my niegborhood would charge about twice that. If you can get work done at that price this LBS is likely a very good option if you have problems or issues in the future.
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Old 03-04-12, 03:51 PM
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Well it was $20 a wheel if it takes under 45 minutes, $30 if over. Said that the front wheel didn't take too much time at all, and looked pretty good, so didn't charge me for it. That type of attitude will have me back there for supplies, especially if they are only a few bucks more than what I can get online.
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Old 03-04-12, 04:10 PM
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There's on occasional item that my LBS will actually charge less than online, typically "consumables" that they apparently buy in bulk for their small franchise.
Also, many times when you add S&H, they are cheaper.
On more expensive items, they'll often price match, although not always. IF they come reasonably close, I'll give them my business.
I figure it helps pay for the "free" advice I can get.
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Old 03-05-12, 09:14 AM
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Commuted into Boston this morning. No pings first starting off, and the wheels are looking good after 10 miles of road, dirt and cobblestones.
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Old 03-22-12, 08:06 AM
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Have about 500 miles on the bike, and today was the first day I had to jump a decent-sized curb at speed... Wheels handled it without a problem. Wouldn't say I was surprised, but I was happy that the the wheelset/getting them tensioned is working out for commuter duties.
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Old 03-22-12, 08:33 AM
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interesting to hear the update. that shop sounds like a good one. who is it? also, isn't it nice to know the wheels are good-to-go, meaning you can ride them with confidence rather than always questioning their condition.
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