any tips on cleaning up road caliper brakes?
 

I have 5-6 year old ultegra brakes on a road bike.

I usually clean the drivetrain on the bike but haven't really touched anything else in 5 or so years except maybe a general washing, replacing chains and tires, etc.

I finally noticed ( and got tired of ignoring) poor brake performance and have replaced all cables and housing (they were a bit sticky) but the brakes are still gunked up with years of grime and don't really retract with the zest I would like.

so, what is the best course of action with the calipers?

take them apart and clean with degreaser?

Air blast the gunk out?

Do I need to lube it up in the pivots? With what kind of lube?

I would imagine too much lube/grease will just attract more road grime.

If I should just go directly to the park tool website just let me know.

Since I most often ride and work on MTB 's, I guess I am most interested in any secret tips on keeping road brake performance high with less maintenance.

IMO, you can use a toothbrush and pipe cleaners to scrub away the grime.
All you need to do is wear some gloves, then apply light oil, brush and repeat. Wipe down with a shop towel when done.

If you really want to clean them out, then you can take them apart, but the oiling and scrubbing should get all the grime loose while lubricating whatever bearings it uses. Probably a thrust bearing for ultegra.

My method for cleaning caliper brakes is very simple and requires no disassembly. Remove them from the bike, wipe off the superficial dirt and grime with a paper towel and then scrub them with kerosene or OMS using a small paint brush to work the solvent into the arms, springs and pivots. Shake and air blow off the excess solvent and dry them with another paper towel. I then oil the pivots and qr with a few drops of Tri Flow and wipe off the pads with alcohol or acetone to remove any residual dirt or solvent. Reinstall, adjust and ride.

I have both Ultegra and Dura Ace DP brakes on three bikes and they are in excellent shape after ten of thousands of miles each using this cleaning procedure about once a year.

thanks guys.

qu'est que se OMS?

Odorless Mineral Spirits, a deodorized cleaner grade of kerosine. It's available in any hardware or home store in the paint department.

You might want to check on the condition of your brake pads as well. They may have begun to become hardened and replacing them will help restore your "like new" brake performance. Kool Stop pads are frequently recommended. It would also be a good idea to clean any grease or wax off of the brake tracks of your wheeels using an oil-free solvent like denatured alcohol, NOT OMS. If you choose not to replace your brake pads it would be wise to clean them with alcohol also, or perhaps scuff the braking surfaces with medium sandpaper or Scotchbrite to expose fresh rubber.

When I'm cleaning my bike, I clean my bike, chain first, and then the derailleurs with old drained gasoline though it's flammable and explosive, kerosene is a better alternative. I then spray my bike with a can of engine degreaser I got from Advanced Auto Parts. Then I spray the bike with a heavy duty concentrated liquid cleaner. I clean the brake surfaces on the wheel with lacquer thinner followed by removing the brake residue by rubbing the brake surface with fine steel wool. I then remove the wheel and use a fine or medium file on the brake pads.

OK, thank you.

I guess I have overstated the 'lack of maintenance' I have done in the OP. I did replace the brake pads last year but will rough 'em up a bit again.

I like to clean my bike when I'm cleaning my bike too.

For those planning to try this, be sure you buy engine degreaser specified as safe for aluminum parts. Older types intended for all cast iron engines used caustic (sodium hydroxide) as one of the cleaning/degreasing compounds and it is death on aluminum.

I hope you strip the bike or at least protect the bearings before using the degreaser and/or liquid cleaner. Either will wash the lube out the the hub, headset and bottom bracket bearings and even "sealed" bearings aren't immune.