Front cable hangar--do I need the pipe?
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Front cable hangar--do I need the pipe?
I'm trying to setup cantilever brakes for the first time, and I noticed the front cable hangar comes with a removable pipe. like this:
How do I know whether I should use it or not? Also I'm having trouble pushing the cable through the tight bend, should it be that difficult? There was also a small plastic straw type thing in the pipe that got bent out of shape, is this liner necessary?
Thanks
How do I know whether I should use it or not? Also I'm having trouble pushing the cable through the tight bend, should it be that difficult? There was also a small plastic straw type thing in the pipe that got bent out of shape, is this liner necessary?
Thanks
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If you use the pipe, the liner is intended to reduce friction. If you can route your cable into the hanger without the pipe, that's usually the better option. I suggest adding a ferrule over the end of the housing so the cable housing fits well in the hanger.
The idea behind the pipe is that it helps in cases where your stem doesn't let the housing make a clean approach to the hanger, but the tight bend creates more friction. If you do need the pipe, slide your brake cable 2/3 of the way into the plastic liner, then feed the liner through the pipe, and that'll get the end of the cable through the bend in the pipe.
The idea behind the pipe is that it helps in cases where your stem doesn't let the housing make a clean approach to the hanger, but the tight bend creates more friction. If you do need the pipe, slide your brake cable 2/3 of the way into the plastic liner, then feed the liner through the pipe, and that'll get the end of the cable through the bend in the pipe.
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I almost never use the pipe on bikes with drop handlebars, but I'm tall and tend to have a nice big area to work with between the handlebars and the hanger. It does wonders with moustache or North Road style bars though. Try mocking it up with and without the pipe, if it looks good without, then just toss it into a drawer.
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You can also get the pipe or noodle in a 135 degree version rather than the 90 degree one provided if that suits your situation better. You might be able to get away without it altogether. Either way a properly-installed ferrule is essential for good performance. If you do use the noodle you should also use the liner which comes with it. If you have problems getting the wire through try twisting the wire (or the noodle) in the direction which tightens the twisted strands.
#5
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the noodle is useful for short steerer setups,
If there are a few spacers between the stem
and the hanger on top of the headset, probably not needed.
If there are a few spacers between the stem
and the hanger on top of the headset, probably not needed.
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Awesome, thanks for the tips guys. Surprisingly not a whole lot of information about these things out on the web.
Also, how tight am I supposed to wrench it down? Or does more of the force come from the nut that goes down on top of it?
Also, how tight am I supposed to wrench it down? Or does more of the force come from the nut that goes down on top of it?
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Tighten its bolt enough that it won't let you turn it on the steertube by hand, that'll be enough. Remember to dial in your headset adjustment before you tighten your cable hanger, and loosen it up again if you need to change your headset preload later.