Ultegra 6600 rear derailleur shifting problems
#1
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Ultegra 6600 rear derailleur shifting problems
I just got a new carbon road bike frame and installed my Ultegra 6600 group set on it. I adjusted my rear derailleur to work on my small front chain ring and it works fine until I shift into the large front chain ring. In the large front chain ring I have to index the rear derailleur twice for it drop down from the top gear in the rear cluster and it will not shift into the last gear. It is off a hole index. This group set was working on my old frame. I checked the hanger it is straight. The limit screws are correct. I had my local bike shop look at it and he thought it might be my rear cluster. My rear cluster is a 11 27 sram and I was told it was compatible and it worked before. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#2
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Off the top of my head, it sounds like insufficient cable tension.
That's assuming "top gear" is the smallest cog
and
by hole you mean whole.
Best to start at SQUARE ONE-
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...illeur-systems
That's assuming "top gear" is the smallest cog
and
by hole you mean whole.
Best to start at SQUARE ONE-
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...illeur-systems
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By top gear I mean large cog. I can adjust it to index correctly for the large front chain ring or the small front chain ring but not both at the same time. If I adjust the derailleur on the large front chain ring it is one index off in the opposite direction on the rear cluster in the small front chain ring. I have to index twice to move it from the small rear cog to the next larger cog and it will not go into the largest rear cog. My local bike shop had the same challenge.
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Yeah, use the procedures at the above link for both front and rear derailleur ajustment. Start at the beginning and do each step in order without skipping ANY steps. It is important to proceed systematically as each adjustment depends on the preceding ones being done correctly.
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You should not be using the big-big combo anyway. If you can adjust it so you're only missing the large front to the large rear, leave it that way and don't use the big-big (nor the small-small either).
#7
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Did you transfer the old chain to the new frame without sizing it?
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No binding problems and guide looks good. That was my first thought. I put new cables on and greased every thing. I ordered a new rear ultegra 6600 cluster to see if that helps.
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Yes I used the old chain and sized it at first. I thought it might be a chain compatibility problem since it was not an ultegra chain. Bought a new ultegra 6600 chain and still have the same problem.
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A 10-speed Shimano cassette should have a 1 mm spacer at the back. I believe that a 10-speed SRAM cassette need that spacer. Someone else here can confirm that. Is it possible that the spacer was in place with the SRAM cassette on the hub?
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Could be. How would that affect indexing? I am now wondering if maybe the chain line is different on my new frame and that is the problem.
#12
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If you swapped your crank AND BB together, your chain line should be good.
I assume the rear shifter matches the same number of cogs?
Just to make sue you don't have a mix of 6500 with 6600.
I assume the rear shifter matches the same number of cogs?
Just to make sue you don't have a mix of 6500 with 6600.
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It sounds like a cable tension issue and maybe the cable is binding somewhere. That can happen when you use an old able with a new setup.
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The issue is with 11 tooth cogs. These cogs extend the length of the cassette about 1mm and don't allow the lock nut to properly tighten the Shimano 10 speed cassettes when not being used on the Shiamno 10 speed only freehubs. Since SRAM 10 speed cassettes are not designed to fit the 10 speed only freehubs, this should not be an issue. However some say it is, so you might want to make sure your cassette is not wobbling.
Last edited by onespeedbiker; 03-29-12 at 11:55 PM.
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It is now fixed!!! Thanks to all that tried to help. My new frame has internal cable routing and some how the cables got crossed inside the frame.