Them Carbon Steerer Tubes...
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Them Carbon Steerer Tubes...
Swapped stems, retightened the top cap's plug(the compression device located inside the steerer tube) because I noticed it had pulled out slightly, when all of a sudden, 'tink!'. Guessing a 'tink' noise translates into, 'that carbon fork's a goner!'
Assuming it is: What do you think about using epoxy to glue an aluminum sleeve inside the carbon steerer tube? Would that stabilize any issues?
-OR-
Trim 20mm of steerer tube?
Already ordered a replacement fork, regardless. (LBS recommended)
UPDATE:
LBS clearly informed that full-carbon forks are NOT repairable under any circumstance, even through trimming. Once the 'tink' noisr presents, the fork must be replaced.
Assuming it is: What do you think about using epoxy to glue an aluminum sleeve inside the carbon steerer tube? Would that stabilize any issues?
-OR-
Trim 20mm of steerer tube?
Already ordered a replacement fork, regardless. (LBS recommended)
UPDATE:
LBS clearly informed that full-carbon forks are NOT repairable under any circumstance, even through trimming. Once the 'tink' noisr presents, the fork must be replaced.
Last edited by GMM; 04-13-12 at 01:40 PM.
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Some forks come with an aluminum insert which is glued in after cutting:
https://www.alphaqbike.com/performanc...rtsystem_s.asp
My Calfee has one of these.
https://www.alphaqbike.com/performanc...rtsystem_s.asp
My Calfee has one of these.
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Certainly not a good sign... although who knows? It might be fine.
If there is a crack (which I'm afraid seems likely), and you can find it, both your proposed methods of repair seem like they'd stand a pretty good chance of working, if done well.
If it turns out you have choice between adding material or removing it to fix the problem... that should be a no-brainer.
If there is a crack (which I'm afraid seems likely), and you can find it, both your proposed methods of repair seem like they'd stand a pretty good chance of working, if done well.
If it turns out you have choice between adding material or removing it to fix the problem... that should be a no-brainer.
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Maybe the compression plug slipped up? If the carbon is actually breaking I doubt it would make a tink, more like *crack* or *crunch*.
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Depends on the size of the crack, not to mention all the other factors that have a bearing on the acoustics of it...
How hard did you tighten the plug to cause this sound? Was the stem clamped around the steerer at the time?
How hard did you tighten the plug to cause this sound? Was the stem clamped around the steerer at the time?
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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How tight? I'm guessing between 3 and 5Nm's, the stem was slacked and the 'tink' noise was medium-loud.
Last edited by GMM; 04-13-12 at 01:29 PM.
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Skip it... I don't think it's a good idea to fidle with carbon anything once a 'tink' noise presents.
The replacement fork has an aluminum crown/steerer.
Should friction compound also be used with aluminum steerer tubes; even with alloy stems?
The replacement fork has an aluminum crown/steerer.
Should friction compound also be used with aluminum steerer tubes; even with alloy stems?
Last edited by GMM; 04-13-12 at 01:33 PM.
#8
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Purpose? in consumer level kit, sales.
want the latest cutting edge stuff, from the pro race scene?
that is the way they went..
But You don't have to..
The Carbon blade, alloy steerer tube combination is in between.
all metal and all carbon, won't weigh a lot more..
want the latest cutting edge stuff, from the pro race scene?
that is the way they went..
But You don't have to..
The Carbon blade, alloy steerer tube combination is in between.
all metal and all carbon, won't weigh a lot more..
Last edited by fietsbob; 04-13-12 at 01:35 PM.
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Some forks come with an aluminum insert which is glued in after cutting:
https://www.alphaqbike.com/performanc...rtsystem_s.asp
My Calfee has one of these.
https://www.alphaqbike.com/performanc...rtsystem_s.asp
My Calfee has one of these.
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in my opinion, carbon frames/forks blades = okay. steerer tubes/drops = no. I just don't think safety is worth shaving an extra 100-200 grams?
#11
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well there are $100 carbon forks , and there are $400+ ones
alpha Q is on the higher end of the price spectrum.
Calfee is not a discount frame either.
yea 200 grams is a good weight for the sliced meat and cheese for a sandwich.
alpha Q is on the higher end of the price spectrum.
Calfee is not a discount frame either.
yea 200 grams is a good weight for the sliced meat and cheese for a sandwich.
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It was NOS, and the frame/fork and been assembled once, so it was cut and the insert was already installed. The instructions stated epoxy was to be used, and I got the impression it was included when shipped. I just used spacers to accomodate the cut length when I built the bike.
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A tink'd fork is teh suck.
The downside to the Alpha-Q insert is that it was a one time permanent deal. Once you cut and glued in the sleeve you couldn't ever change it.
My Alpha-Q has a steel steer tube. I'll never tink this one.
The downside to the Alpha-Q insert is that it was a one time permanent deal. Once you cut and glued in the sleeve you couldn't ever change it.
My Alpha-Q has a steel steer tube. I'll never tink this one.
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I got curious what Zinn was doing for tall forks now, since he used to sell a special Alpha-Q with a loooong steerer. Looks like Serotta is his current source: https://zinncycles.com/Zinn/index.php/components/forks
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