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Chain Catches Against Adjacent Cassette Cog

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Chain Catches Against Adjacent Cassette Cog

Old 04-17-12, 08:58 PM
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Weizilla
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Chain Catches Against Adjacent Cassette Cog

I took apart my cassette (SRAM 1050) to clean it after a sandy adventure along a beach but after reassembling it, I noticed some clicking sounds whenever I crank the pedals and I'm in the smallest, 2nd smallest and 3rd smallest cogs in the back. Upon further inspection, it seems like when the chain is in those cogs, every now and then, one of the special teeth (I guess designed for better shifting) from the next bigger cog would catch the chain, causing the clicking sound.

I checked the H screw but when the derailier is in the smallest cog, the screw is already so far out that it no longer touches the metal that it's suppose to limit the movement of. I played around with the cable barrel adjustment but even after several turns, it didn't seem to do much.

Any ideas on what to do? Taking the cassette off and cleaning it should only make it work better right? Not sure why my chain is now off.

It was my first time cleaning the cassette so could I have messed that up somehow? All I did was shake it in some mineral spirits, let dry then reassemble. Chain was also cleaned the same way, then lubed with Prolink.
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Old 04-17-12, 09:31 PM
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Indexing is not spot on, so it is straying to the pick up ramps on the next larger cog.

step 1, have the bikeshop check the dropout hanger for being even the slightest bit out of whack.
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Old 04-17-12, 09:53 PM
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some cassettes have a shim between the cassette and the hub shell. and some have a very very narrow spacer between the first and second cogs and/or between the second and third cogs. assuming the smallest cog is considered the first. it's possible to put these back in the wrong order.
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Old 04-18-12, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Indexing is not spot on, so it is straying to the pick up ramps on the next larger cog.

step 1, have the bikeshop check the dropout hanger for being even the slightest bit out of whack.
it shifts perfectly fine. it's just when it's not shifting that the chain sometime catches on the next larger cog. how easy is it for the drop hanger to get out of whack?

Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan View Post
some cassettes have a shim between the cassette and the hub shell. and some have a very very narrow spacer between the first and second cogs and/or between the second and third cogs. assuming the smallest cog is considered the first. it's possible to put these back in the wrong order.
there were only spacers between the middle gears. the smallest three cogs have spacers built in on the side facing the bike. i'm pretty sure i didn't lose any parts when I took it apart and there wasn't any mentioning of shims on the sram website.
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Old 04-18-12, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Weizilla View Post
it shifts perfectly fine. it's just when it's not shifting that the chain sometime catches on the next larger cog. how easy is it for the drop hanger to get out of whack?
You cable isn't set properly. The cable is just a little too tight so the derailer is held in a position where the chain can just rub up against the next cog. The shift ramps that aid in shifting are try to aid in this situation too but derailer isn't far enough over for the chain to climb up. While spinning the pedals on a repair stand, release just a little of the tension on the cable (a quarter of a turn should do it) until the drivetrain stops making noise.

It's unlikely to be a derailer hanger problem, unless you crashed the bike. Derailer hanger problems usually cause problems across the entire cassette.

Another unlikely...but possible...issue could be that you put the cassette back together incorrectly. See if the problematic cog is parallel to the other cogs. You might have a little grit between the cog and the spacer that won't let the cog lay flat.
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Old 04-18-12, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
You cable isn't set properly. The cable is just a little too tight so the derailer is held in a position where the chain can just rub up against the next cog. The shift ramps that aid in shifting are try to aid in this situation too but derailer isn't far enough over for the chain to climb up. While spinning the pedals on a repair stand, release just a little of the tension on the cable (a quarter of a turn should do it) until the drivetrain stops making noise.

It's unlikely to be a derailer hanger problem, unless you crashed the bike. Derailer hanger problems usually cause problems across the entire cassette.

Another unlikely...but possible...issue could be that you put the cassette back together incorrectly. See if the problematic cog is parallel to the other cogs. You might have a little grit between the cog and the spacer that won't let the cog lay flat.
I thought it was a cable too tight issue as well but I've been turning the plastic barrel thing at the end of the cable housing every which way and it doesn't seem to do anything. If a quarter of a turn makes a change then something isn't working because I've turned it several complete revolutions without any changes, better or worse.
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Old 04-18-12, 08:43 AM
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https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
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Old 04-18-12, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Homebrew01 View Post
I read all about it at https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...nts-derailleur but no matter how much I adjust the barrel thing, nothing changes. Would it be smart to unscrew the actual cable on the derailleur pinch bolt and adjust that? Do I need one of those cable pinchers?
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Old 04-18-12, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Weizilla View Post
I read all about it at https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...nts-derailleur but no matter how much I adjust the barrel thing, nothing changes. Would it be smart to unscrew the actual cable on the derailleur pinch bolt and adjust that? Do I need one of those cable pinchers?
That's odd. It should make it better or worse. picture of the rear derailleur ?
Is it some odd-ball cable ferrule that's not threaded ?
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Old 04-18-12, 11:08 AM
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Which barrel adjuster? Is it a road bike with cables crossed below the downtube?

Fallen for that one before, never again.
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Old 04-18-12, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Homebrew01 View Post
That's odd. It should make it better or worse. picture of the rear derailleur ?
Is it some odd-ball cable ferrule that's not threaded ?
https://imgur.com/ObY2s

Picture is looking down at the rear derailleur when the bike is upside down. Ignore my hairy foot

I'm assuming the cable would move either into the sleeve or out of the sleeve as I turn the barrel right? I sharpied some marks on the cable and the wires on the rear side of the barrel and there's definitely no change when I turn it. By barrel, I mean the black plastic thing. The silver thing that it surrounds doesn't rotate.

Originally Posted by IthaDan View Post
Which barrel adjuster? Is it a road bike with cables crossed below the downtube?

Fallen for that one before, never again.
I have a surly cross check so the cable housing stops at my downtube, then it's exposed wire which runs under my bb. The cable housing that runs to rear derailleur starts at the chain stay.

What's wrong with bikes with cables running under the bb?

I actually used that barrel adjustment and it seemed to have solved the problem, especially since the rear barrel adjustment wasn't doing anything.

Last edited by Weizilla; 04-18-12 at 09:37 PM. Reason: More questions?
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Old 05-07-21, 10:23 AM
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I just had the identical issue - I first noticed it on an indoor fluid trainer and then on a repair stand - while pedaling in smallest cog and next two the sound was pretty much identical but at the 4th cog the sound changed - I couldn't determine the origin of the sound and so took it to our LBS - the mechanic was able to eliminate the sound by loosening the barrel adjuster at the rear derailleur - I just didn't think to try that on my own .

When I Googled the issue this thread from 2012 came up on Bike Forums - IMO this forum has a membership that is extraordinary in knowledge and response times !!!!
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Old 05-07-21, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Weizilla View Post
I thought it was a cable too tight issue as well but I've been turning the plastic barrel thing at the end of the cable housing every which way and it doesn't seem to do anything. If a quarter of a turn makes a change then something isn't working because I've turned it several complete revolutions without any changes, better or worse.
Sometimes you can unthread the adjustment barrel. There is a limit to how far out the barrel can be unscrewed.

Originally Posted by Weizilla View Post
https://imgur.com/ObY2s

Picture is looking down at the rear derailleur when the bike is upside down. Ignore my hairy foot
Okay, photography issue. Focus! Look at the picture and if it isnít focused, retake it!

On to other issues: Something doesnít look right on your cable routing. There shouldnít be a kink in the cable (see red arrow). Iím not sure what that black thing is in the picture but your cable should be straight. See next picture (notice itís in focus) for how the cable should be routed. The extra kink in the cable is going to cause shifting problems.






I'm assuming the cable would move either into the sleeve or out of the sleeve as I turn the barrel right? I sharpied some marks on the cable and the wires on the rear side of the barrel and there's definitely no change when I turn it. By barrel, I mean the black plastic thing. The silver thing that it surrounds doesn't rotate.
The ďsilver thingĒ in your out of focus picture (no, Iím not going to let it go) is the part that turns. The green arrow points to the part of the barrel adjuster that turns. The red arrow points to the part that is putting the kink in your cable.




I have a surly cross check so the cable housing stops at my downtube, then it's exposed wire which runs under my bb. The cable housing that runs to rear derailleur starts at the chain stay.

What's wrong with bikes with cables running under the bb?

I actually used that barrel adjustment and it seemed to have solved the problem, especially since the rear barrel adjustment wasn't doing anything.
Thereís nothing wrong with cables running under the bottom bracket. At least not anything mechanical. Itís an awful place to put a cable because all the crap of the world is thrown at it but mechanically it isnít a problem. The bike in my picture has an under BB cable routing and it hasnít ever been an issue.
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Old 05-07-21, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute View Post
Sometimes you can unthread the adjustment barrel. There is a limit to how far out the barrel can be unscrewed.
THIS ^^. Also, the barrel adjuster may be spring-loaded, requiring the part you turn to be pulled up to engage the threaded part beneath. I've seen this on the Shimano shifters on my folding bikes.
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Old 05-07-21, 09:56 PM
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If it was fine before you took it apart to clean it, I’m going to say you put it back together wrong.
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