Hollowtech II BB
 

I have a Shimano R600 compact crank on a 2011 Trek Madone. @ 100 miles it started clicking. The LBS packed it full of grease and problem solved. Now @ 2000 miles it's back. So while pulling the crank the preload cap was super tight requiring a channel lock on Park's spinner to get it loose. Shimano says 6-13 inch / lbs. This had to have 50 or better. The outer seal showed some deformity but I went ahead and took it and the inner seal out, packed her full of Park grease put it back together using the recomended torques. Clicking remains.

New BB time? If so Is it worth it to go beyond a Dura-Ace replacement. $30 dollars doesn't seem too bad. I'd rather not be doing this every 2-3 months but if that's what it takes then so be it.

Sometimes you need to chase the threads and have the bb shell faced to solve a creak.

If you are going to go through the trouble of replacing the BB, have the faces of the BB shell checked/faced otherwise the BB will often fail again prematurely.

Did you loosen the clamp bolts before removing the preload cap? If you didn't, that would account for having a tough time getting the preload cap off. There are replacement bearings available at http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id227.html for $15 if you want to go that route. Also, make sure the spindle is well greased where it contacts the bearings as this can be a source for noise.

Yes indeed. You have to take it off in the same order that you put it on.

Would be interested in how the LBS packed the Shimano HT2 BB; as these are fit and forget / disposable items & are non serviceable. You can get replacement bearings from places like Enduroseals, but the cost of a complete new BB makes this a cost in-effective exercise for Shimano HT2 BB's.

Would agree with the facing and chasing of the BB shell if you are having issues with creaking, as this could be causing you issues.

Facing and chasing the bb shell threads is always a good idea for external cup bottom brackets but even good, well-aligned threads can creak if not lubed well before installation. I like to use about two layers of plumber's teflon tape as the thread lube/sealant. That has solved and prevented many creaking problems.

I'm feeling foolish this morning. The endcap torque is indeed increased by tightening the clamp screws. I tried unscrewing the endcap on my install and it is indeed very tight. I quess the clamp screws load the bearings up. Another reason for feeling stupid is I asked myself "What has changed?" I'd forgotten I'd raised my seat a 1/4" So I went out and rode out of the saddle... No click. Sit on the saddle click returns. Loosen clamp on CF seatpost, turn post in seattube around a couple times. Retorque and click sounds completely different (much, much less). I wonder if I need some "frame prep rosin???" or whatever it called?

Ps relube of Shimano HollowtechII is pretty easy. Plus you feel like a pirate by ignoring the do not dissassemble label.

to be clear, this is the bottom bracket you have had opened up and regreased twice now?
http://woollypigs.com/wp-content/upl...owtech-xt1.jpg

the one that says clearly "do not disassemble" on each of the cups?

Pop out the plastic seal and you can access the bearings quite easily.

are you guys just relubing or are you replacing the bearings?

I'm just throwing caution to the wind and repacking the external side.

cool. i thought you were removing the bearings and installing new ones and THEN being surprised about a creak.
so it was just the seatpost?

Just put some Park SuperGrip in my cart from jensonUSA $11 seems worth it.

Seatpost yeah. I really should know better not troubleshoot after dissasembly. I guess I let a past fix to instantly lead me to conclude that the orginal problem had come back. I did learn a few things though so it's not all bad. Plus I found a source (bikeman) for the O ring( $2.99) that was scarred up on the non-drive side. When it cames in I'll replace it.

nonononono. The clamp bolts clamp onto the endcap, it's not preload you've been resisting, it's the pressure of endcap being clamped down upon.

That's why the park end cap tool is plastic and knurled for your fingers, you don't need more torque than that- it's like an aheadset- the endcap (topcap in a headset) sets the preload until you tighten the clamp in the crankarm (or stem in a headset). After the crankarm is tightened, you dont even need the endcap.

I've also poped out the bearings and replaced them. Works fine, no creaks.

IthaDan. Now that makes sense