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Swapping caliper brakes for V Brakes

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Swapping caliper brakes for V Brakes

Old 05-02-12, 11:27 AM
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raleigh83
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Swapping caliper brakes for V Brakes

Hey all, I'm trying to swap these caliper brakes on my old road bike for some V-brakes so I can get better braking power for some touring I want to do with this bike.

I've attached three pictures

http://imgur.com/OtgFp,GuH00,Twohr#0

Just want to know if it's possible with this set-up, what some inexpensive brands of brakes might be (or if I can just harvest some from a bike workshop near me.)

Thanks for taking the time.
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Old 05-02-12, 11:31 AM
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Did you have a plan to mount cantilever brake bosses on the frame?
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Old 05-02-12, 11:38 AM
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I did not. This is also the first time I've heard of them... I just looked them up. I can't weld... Can you explain by any chance how they work?
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Old 05-02-12, 11:39 AM
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No. Get some new brakes with enough reach for the frame. The bike isn't made for touring. You are going to need to figure out how to mount racks on it or pull a trailer.
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Old 05-02-12, 11:46 AM
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You have single pivot calipers with stock pads. That combo will give you terrible performance. As noted above, you'd need to enlist the services of a frame builder and painter to convert your frame to cantilever or V brakes. Get a set of dual pivot calipers (Tektro - among others - makes nutted ones that will work on your bike) and get some Kool Stop pads. You will be amazed at the difference.
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Old 05-02-12, 11:56 AM
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My recommendation, if the reach is sufficient, is an affordable set of Tektro 536 or 539 med-long reach dual pivot calipers. These greater insrease mechanical advantage to really give good braking performance, they are compatible with short-pull levers, and you can order them in standard nut/bolt/curved washer mount, or with recessed brake bolt mounts. I have them on flat bar and on road bikes used for touring and they stop just fine.

I do like linear pull brakes. But I'd agree with the other replies to stick with caliper brakes.
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Old 05-02-12, 12:00 PM
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Thanks Davidad, CACycling, gyozadude. It's a real shame I can't swap for V-brakes but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. How can I measure the brakes or frame to determine the right dual-caliper size?
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Old 05-02-12, 01:15 PM
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V-Brake Adapter Plate
http://billys.co.uk/english/group.php?prod=bsdnvps



There's clamp on v-brake posts for some forks.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=20153
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=33699
http://pacecycles.easyspaceshops.com...E-MOUNTING-KIT

Evolution Bike Co makes the following mounts.
http://evolutionbikeco.com/index.html



A discussion on fitting v-brakes without bosses: http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/vie...st=0&sk=t&sd=a

* If I was going to use a v-brake adapter plate or the clamp on v-brake bosses I'd also use a v-brake booster to make the setup more stiffer and secure.

V-Brake Booster

V-Brake Booster Photo

Last edited by cobba; 02-23-13 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 05-02-12, 02:32 PM
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How can I measure the brakes or frame to determine the right dual-caliper size?
2 horizontal lines ... 1 the center line of the bolt hole,
the 2nd one the center of the rim where the brake pad grabs.
the reach is measuring a perpendicular line between the 2.

that dimension should fall in the middle between the 2 numbers listed for range of reach
which is the range of adjustment the slot.. for the brake pad height.

You will need a set of brakes that fit on with a regular nut.

don't get ones with a flush mount sleeve nut they are not suitable.
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Old 05-02-12, 02:39 PM
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While you CAN use adpaters such as shown by cobba I've found from upgrading from single to dual pivot style calipers that I got all the performance increase that I could ask for. Dual pivot calipers are very close in performance and effectiveness to V brakes. And the dual pivot calipers will be much easier to swap out. Also in the end it'll be cheaper since you don't need to buy all those bits and then still buy the V brake sets.

And the icing on the cake to finish it off is to toss the stock pads you get with the new calipers and install some salmon coloured Koolstop pads. The friction to pressure response of the salmon colored pads is far better than any other pad I've tried. Some rare exceptions may match the salmon Koolstops but nothing beats them IME.
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Old 05-02-12, 05:18 PM
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There's clamp on v-brake posts for some forks.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=20153
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=33699
http://pacecycles.easyspaceshops.com...E-MOUNTING-KIT

A discussion on fitting v-brakes: http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/vie...st=0&sk=t&sd=a[/QUOTE]

Wow, wicked post. Thanks for this. Looking at the prices I think the Tektro double caliper option is more affordable for me. I don't imagine the stopping power to be enough different to pay the difference.

Thanks BCRider for the info as well, and also to the one who told me how to measure. I'll look into all this. I've got a rack that I need to attach by way of P-clamps, I'm in the middle of swapping the crankset... some new brakes and some kitty litter buckets on the back and I'm away to the races.
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Old 05-22-12, 06:10 AM
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Okay, I want to spark some life into this thread again, though I may just have to start a new one--

So here's the update. Been busy but now I've got some time. I've got another set of questions and some photos to boot. Here's what I've got for y'all:

Pictures:
http://imgur.com/YHRdx,vy0gu,YdyBb

Here are some measurements I've taken:
-Seat tube length is 20"
-Brake range 2" in the front, 2 1/4 in the back (Never measured this before, I think I got it right)
-Tire size 27 1x1/4
-Seat stay width: 1.5cm

So the question I have for all y'all:

-Fenders. Possible? I'm looking to put them on the front and back. Looks like there's very little clearance under there though.
-If I'm operating with fenders, I need P-clamps. No braze-ons. I need to look at P-clamp widths, but does anyone know the size given the width I've got here?
-Front derailleur. As you can see I put the two cranksets next to eachother-- one's a mountain triple the other a road double that was originally on there. I imagine I'll have to swap the front to be able to work with the triple. (Probably the chain too.) Any words of advice here are great. If this only works with the easiest two chainrings then that also works.

That's all I've got for you today. You've all been astonishingly helpful.
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Old 05-22-12, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by gyozadude View Post
My recommendation, if the reach is sufficient, is an affordable set of Tektro 536 or 539 med-long reach dual pivot calipers. These greater insrease mechanical advantage to really give good braking performance, they are compatible with short-pull levers, and you can order them in standard nut/bolt/curved washer mount, or with recessed brake bolt mounts. I have them on flat bar and on road bikes used for touring and they stop just fine.

I do like linear pull brakes. But I'd agree with the other replies to stick with caliper brakes.
Yes. Just because it's possible to mount V-brakes to your frame and fork doesn't mean it's a good idea. It's not a good idea. Don't do it.
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Old 05-22-12, 09:31 AM
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Perhaps this is a job for your local bike shop?
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Old 05-22-12, 12:42 PM
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Start a new thread with an appropriate title, is my advice. There's no limit on threads, why piggyback this one?

Originally Posted by raleigh83 View Post
Okay, I want to spark some life into this thread again, though I may just have to start a new one--

So here's the update. Been busy but now I've got some time. I've got another set of questions and some photos to boot. Here's what I've got for y'all:

Pictures:
http://imgur.com/YHRdx,vy0gu,YdyBb

Here are some measurements I've taken:
-Seat tube length is 20"
-Brake range 2" in the front, 2 1/4 in the back (Never measured this before, I think I got it right)
-Tire size 27 1x1/4
-Seat stay width: 1.5cm

So the question I have for all y'all:

-Fenders. Possible? I'm looking to put them on the front and back. Looks like there's very little clearance under there though.
-If I'm operating with fenders, I need P-clamps. No braze-ons. I need to look at P-clamp widths, but does anyone know the size given the width I've got here?
-Front derailleur. As you can see I put the two cranksets next to eachother-- one's a mountain triple the other a road double that was originally on there. I imagine I'll have to swap the front to be able to work with the triple. (Probably the chain too.) Any words of advice here are great. If this only works with the easiest two chainrings then that also works.

That's all I've got for you today. You've all been astonishingly helpful.
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Old 05-22-12, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Camilo View Post
Start a new thread with an appropriate title, is my advice. There's no limit on threads, why piggyback this one?
I just get attached sometimes, like to an old bike...

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Old 05-23-12, 01:32 AM
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Modern caliper brakes (single or dual-pivot) have more than enough clamping force, that the hassle of adding V-brakes won't make a difference. Ultimately, what determines braking "power" and short stopping distances is the front-tyre's contact patch. Softer rubber with lower-pressure fat tyres for a BIG contact patch will give shorter stopping distances than harder rubber on thin high-pressure tyres.

Any modern caliper brake will generate enough clamping force to lock up the front tyre and/or send you over the bars. Being able to clamp tighter and harder than this will not yield any shorter stopping distances.
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