Should I use my normal rim or try to find an off-center?
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Should I use my normal rim or try to find an off-center?
So I ordered a set of 650B synergy rims form QBP at cost, but the O/C version was not available, so I ordered 2 normal ones. Should I go through the trouble of finding an OC rim or just build up the normal version? 32 spokes, only 150lbs, and on an Ultegra hub that requires less drastic dishing anyways. Should I even bother?
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10+ years of experience with millions of riders has proven that well built 32h wheels are more than adequate to the task and hold up fine to normal use. At 150#s you're easily within the range where you shouldn't expect wheel problems with normal (center drilled) rims.
Yes, an offset rim would reduce the L/R tension difference, but won't make a practical difference in your case. If you weighed 200+ pounds my answer might be different, But even there it's only might since I weigh 190#s and have never had any wheel issues with very light (305gr) rims, in over 100,000 miles of riding.
Yes, an offset rim would reduce the L/R tension difference, but won't make a practical difference in your case. If you weighed 200+ pounds my answer might be different, But even there it's only might since I weigh 190#s and have never had any wheel issues with very light (305gr) rims, in over 100,000 miles of riding.
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An o/c rim would be technically "better", but you won't notice "better" as long as "average" is good enough.
Of course, unless you're limited by time, going for "Better" can be strangely fulfilling.
Of course, unless you're limited by time, going for "Better" can be strangely fulfilling.
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OC rims have their own issues. Since your weight will not be a concern, I would stay with the standard drilling. If you were heavy or used Campy, there might be a reason for the OC. IMHO
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Whether you should use an OC rim just comes down to whether you can find one in the spec you desire, IMO. If I had to wait a few weeks, I would.
Also, smaller rims like 650b will accentuate the tension difference a bit due to the greater proximity to the hub. I think... been up a bit too long to reliably intuit Pythagoras.
What are those, then? I'd be amazed if there's a single intrinsic downside.
Also, smaller rims like 650b will accentuate the tension difference a bit due to the greater proximity to the hub. I think... been up a bit too long to reliably intuit Pythagoras.
What are those, then? I'd be amazed if there's a single intrinsic downside.
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Perhaps I will try to trade for one. I know that there probably won't be a noticeable difference for me since I'm a pretty light rider, but it'd just be cool to have. Thanks for the input. More input is welcome of course
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Possibly someone like mrrabbit who has more current experience with offset rims can chime in and confirm either way.
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It comes down to how the vendor applies the feature...
Use the OCR profile in a lightweight racing clincher - it usually means a very thin wall. The likelihood increases that a circumferential stress line w/separation will develop on the drive side between the profile center and the sidewall.
Several manufacturers have run the gamut with this feature...but then again...lightweight racing clinchers when used regularly aren't expected to last anywhere near middleweights and heavyweights to begin with.
I've tossed quite a few lightweight OCR Ritchey's and Bontragers in the past that had this crack develop - with the Bontragers also being of the paired spoke type (bleah!).
=8-)
Use the OCR profile in a lightweight racing clincher - it usually means a very thin wall. The likelihood increases that a circumferential stress line w/separation will develop on the drive side between the profile center and the sidewall.
Several manufacturers have run the gamut with this feature...but then again...lightweight racing clinchers when used regularly aren't expected to last anywhere near middleweights and heavyweights to begin with.
I've tossed quite a few lightweight OCR Ritchey's and Bontragers in the past that had this crack develop - with the Bontragers also being of the paired spoke type (bleah!).
=8-)
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
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Anyone have any info about the OC Aerohead's durability? Those are light.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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I have 4 setups with Aerohead OCs and have seen zero problems with any (although less than 2K miles on most of them). I've heard of problems with Bontrager Race Lite OCs but my two Race X Lite OCs were acquired used with (supposedly > 6K miles on one) and show no problems.
I've gotten so used to building OC rears that I find the variable tension of a symmetric rear to be a harder build (I build and rebuild a lot. It's strangely theraputic)
I've gotten so used to building OC rears that I find the variable tension of a symmetric rear to be a harder build (I build and rebuild a lot. It's strangely theraputic)
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Doesn't matter; it has to be at least 4mm, which is worth an increase of 8mm OLD.
That's nothing to sneeze at.
Actually, looking at this, it seems like 3.5mm.
That's easily enough to make quite a difference, if my experience increasing OLD by 5mm is any guide.
That's nothing to sneeze at.
Actually, looking at this, it seems like 3.5mm.
That's easily enough to make quite a difference, if my experience increasing OLD by 5mm is any guide.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Last edited by Kimmo; 05-19-12 at 06:33 AM.