Bottom bracket dismantle...
#1
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Bottom bracket dismantle...
I'm taking my '78 Schwinn Super Le Tour 12.2 apart and have run into a bit of a delay getting the bottom bracket apart.
At the risk of sounding like a total noobie, which part do I break loose first, and would it be regular threads or reverse?
THANKS!
At the risk of sounding like a total noobie, which part do I break loose first, and would it be regular threads or reverse?
THANKS!
Last edited by 67tony; 05-20-12 at 08:51 PM.
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I'm sure real expert help will be along soon, but the first question is whether you intend to replace it or hope to save and service it. The answer will help folks guide you as to appropriate tool choice.
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Remove the adjustable cup first the top picture. The outer ring, then the cup. Then when the spindles removed the fixed cup. Good luck, even with the correct tools, this is a pita.
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Chances are that the original bearings and retainer clips are shot. Your local shop might have replacement bearings in retainers, but I prefer to repack with loose balls. You'll need 2 or 3 extra balls to properly fill the cup. This makes for a stiffer bearing with less friction.
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I hope to re-use, the rest of the bike was in pretty good shape so I assume low mileage. I guess that's one nice thing about mid-quality bikes; a guy that bought an expensive racer probably put a lot of miles on it, but a guy that buys a medium-quality road bike might not be as committed - leaving it unused in the barn for years.
Great answers, thanks a ton. I tried to break it loose, luckily correctly, but it is frozen so I worried I was doing something wrong. It's had a couple days of WD-40, so I'll tackle it tonight and post how it went.
Thanks again!
Great answers, thanks a ton. I tried to break it loose, luckily correctly, but it is frozen so I worried I was doing something wrong. It's had a couple days of WD-40, so I'll tackle it tonight and post how it went.
Thanks again!
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While it iss not easy to do if your intent is to reuse the BB there is no need to remove the "Fixed" cup, after all they are called that for a reason.
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I knew the experts would solve the problem. The real mechanics in this forum are absolutely amazing.
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"What if we fail to stop the erosion of cities by automobiles?. . . In that case, we Americans will hardly need to ponder a mystery that has troubled men for millennia: What is the purpose of life? For us, the answer will be clear, established and for all practical purposes indisputable: The purpose of life is to produce and consume automobiles."
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"What if we fail to stop the erosion of cities by automobiles?. . . In that case, we Americans will hardly need to ponder a mystery that has troubled men for millennia: What is the purpose of life? For us, the answer will be clear, established and for all practical purposes indisputable: The purpose of life is to produce and consume automobiles."
~Jane Jacobs, The Death and Life of Great American Cities
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I'm switching to PB Blaster for all my future dismantling needs. Everything came apart easily, including the fixed cup side. I'm probably not painting, but I figure while I'm at it, might as well take things all the way apart!
Thanks again for all the help.
Thanks again for all the help.
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+1 on leaving the drive side cup right where it is, assuming the bearing surface is in good shape.
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If you really want to remove the right side cup (the fixed cup), I've found to work best a benchtop vise where you fit the cup, and turn the frame around it. (don't do it on swivel head benchtop vise , and don't do it on vises with rounded edges on the jaws - like the rather large ones you ought to find in a blacksmith's shop, already worn and deformed out of plane and rounded on the corners of the jaws)
The frame should stay horizontally just by the tightening of the vise on the fixed cup (on those 2-3mm protruding) - so you need sharp jaws on the vise for that. (and bolted on a sturdy bench)
The frame should stay horizontally just by the tightening of the vise on the fixed cup (on those 2-3mm protruding) - so you need sharp jaws on the vise for that. (and bolted on a sturdy bench)
Last edited by Asi; 05-22-12 at 02:35 AM.
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The vise method is a good idea, similar to removing a freewheel.
I let it set for 10 minutes after PB Blasting it and, using a steel-handled crescent (not rubber), gave it a sharp rap with the flat of a hammer. Voila!
I let it set for 10 minutes after PB Blasting it and, using a steel-handled crescent (not rubber), gave it a sharp rap with the flat of a hammer. Voila!
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Do not remove the fixed cup!
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