J.Drop

Was messing around with my cassette and freehub yesterday, trying to get rid of a clicking problem and accidentally tightened down the cone on the non drive side all the way . Is there a way to get it off without ruining the threads on the axle? My brother in law is a contractor so I have a large array of tools available to me. The wheels spins fine and there is no wheel drag, but was thinking that it may not be good for the bearings or what not.

Also can someone explain how I would get my rear axle off. When I got the lock nut and cone out (before messing everything up) the axle would only slide about 1mm side to side and would not got any further. I was thinking that the axle just slide out on he drive side.

JohnDThompson 

An axle vise will hold the axle firmly without damaging the threads:

dsbrantjr

Something similar could probably be cobbled up from a block of hard wood. Drill the appropriate size hole, saw a slot so a vise can compress the hole and you are set.

dabac

Depends on the design, but for a normal cup & cone you undo the NDS locknut, remove the cone and pull the axle out towards the DS.
Freewheels can be removed to give access to the DS Cone and locknut. Usually not so for cassette hubs.

Reynolds 

If you hold both locknuts and try to unscrew them, one will come loose. Then you can loosen the cone. If the drive side locknut loosens first, it's better to take out the axle, tighten the DS cone and locknut, and use the NDS cone and locknut to adjust.

HillRider

What are the make and model of the hub? If it's a Shimano type cup-and-cone, the axle should easily slide out of the drive side when the nds locknut, spacers and cone are unthreaded. If it's a cartridge bearing hub, the axle may have a shoulder and removing it may require driving out the bearing cartridge too.

garage sale GT

Take the wheel to a bike shop and ask them to remove the freewheel. You need a special socket for that job.

FBinNY 

Start by removing the axle cone and locknut on the left, and slide axle out to the right. The rest is common sense.

However, if you're trying to do this with the freewheel still on the bike, it's likely that a washer or weather seal is trapped behind the freewheel. The general rule is that you remove the freewheel before working on the axle. It's not always necessary, but on some (likely yours) it is.

alcjphil

The biggest problem is that nobody knows what type of hub you have, or what sort of bike. You are getting answers that are guesses based on limited information. If you at least supply a few pictures it would go a long way towards giving you better advice

fietsbob

take it apart from the un stuck end , buy a new axle assembly , LBS will see what you have when you bring in the wheel.

since nobody here is clairvoyant..

buy the tools or hire the job out.

Building houses Is a different skill set than building bikes and takes different tools ..

J.Drop

Was waiting for my new bike stand and Park to send me replacement parts for their chain whip (broke on the first use) so I was using the MTB and messed up that even more then this today (I'll save that for another thread) FML
So it looks like I will be picking up a vise after all, was kinda hoping to find another way to do it since I'm kinda tight for space.
Would this one be alright for working on bikes BESSEY 4-1/2 in. Light Duty Bench Vise with Swivel Base-BV-HW45 at The Home Depot really don't want to be spending much more than this since dot have much other use for it.

Just watched a youtube vid and the guy used 2 pieces of wood was thinking about it but the AV-1 was only $11. Should I have picked up the AV-4 or AV-5 Amazon.com: Park Tool AV-5 Axle and Spindle Vise Insert: Automotive instead not really sure what the other holes are for and if it justifies the extra $20?

Yeah I tried that but the axle only moves 1mm both ways. Was I suppose to hammer it out?

The wheels are house brand Giant P-R2 with sealed bearings Just stole these pick off the internet, really can't find much info on them. Hope that helps me


Also if the wheels still spin freely without any drag is it ok for me to ride the bike or will it really mess use the hub and bearings?

Reynolds 

Hubs with sealed bearings don't have cones.

Wilfred Laurier

+1

J.Drop

What So is the thing behind the lock nut just like a dust cap then. Am I fine to ride on it?

trailangel

If you got that bench vise from Home Depot and that axel vise you should be able to fix it up right.
BFH from contractor tool set could help.

J.Drop

Yeah gonna be picking that up today, but still waiting for the chain whip replacement
BFH stands for BIG *&%#* HAMMER right hopefully I don't need that

If sealed bearings don't cones is the adjustment done while the wheels are still on the bike like this

BCRider

JD, a good bench vise is like having a trustworthy buddy that is always there when you need them. So my advice is that if you are going to buy a vise then buy one which you can use for the rest of your life. Even if for now you have to set up a spot where you only bolt it into place occasionally for specific jobs you won't go wrong with buying a good heavy vise.

And some day down the road when you have a dedicated shop of your own where you can set the vise up permanently you'll remember me saying to "buy big" and smile that you took my advice. On the other hand if you "buy small and cheap" you will learn many new curse words.

When picking out a vise do so where you can open the box and wiggle the movable jaw. You want one that has only minimal twist and racking movements. Actually ideally there would be NO twist or racking. But that nice a vise costs big.... or you get lucky.

And since I see you also live in my neck of the woods I can suggest that you shop at KMS or Princess where you can open the box and test the jaw for unwanted movements. AND I see that Princess has this 5 inch on sale. But again if you can wiggle the jaw around then do NOT buy it even on sale.

5 in. Fixed Base Mechanic's Vise | Princess Auto

On a 5 inch vise if I can open the jaw up a little and then get the jaw to rack out of parallel by more than 1 to 1.5mm then I put it back. In fact 1mm is my limit. A jaw which won't hold at least that for parts clamped at the ends of the jaw is pretty much boat ballast. So shop with that in mind.

You'll find that you need to lift the vise out of the box to check for jaw motion. Take the time even if you get funny looks.

From all this you might think I'm obsessing too much. But the others will back me up when I say that a good vise is central to any working area and imperative to doing good work. It doesn't matter if you're a machinist, wood worker, bicycle mechanic or even a fly tying hobbyist. Everyone needs that totally trust worthy "third hand".

J.Drop

Thanks for the great insight

I'm even more glad I didn't purchase that vise while in the States now, since I saw this right before I left IRWIN Tools | 4 inch Heavy Duty Workshop Vise | Home Depot Canada and thought for an extra $10 this would be a no-brainer (got pretty good reviews on amazon.com). Might take a look at this one too beforehand Bench vise | RONA cause of the larger capacity, though not much info on it. Not sure if opening boxes up at HomeDepot or Rona would be a good idea, but I'll see If i can get away with if it.

I checked out the one that you suggest, but I may of just missed the sale or is this the one you meant 5 in. Swivel Base Bench Vise | Princess Auto