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How to take lockring off from Sheng Zuan freewheel?

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How to take lockring off from Sheng Zuan freewheel?

Old 05-26-12, 06:29 PM
  #1  
saturnhr
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How to take lockring off from Sheng Zuan freewheel?

Is there an adapter for the lockring (this is about to take the sprocket off the freewheel - not about to take the freewheel off the hub)
Thanks
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Old 05-27-12, 12:24 AM
  #2  
skeem
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it looks like the tool used on a suntour powerflo 7 speed freewheel ( i can look at my shop tomorrow and confirm this). why are you trying to take it apart? usually those just get replaced with cheap normal freewheels.
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Old 05-27-12, 12:57 AM
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Sixty Fiver
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Looks like it uses your standard Shimano freewheel tool for removal... you might check and see if a splined bottom bracket tool matches the spline pattern on the freewheel's lock ring.
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Old 05-27-12, 04:03 AM
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saturnhr
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post
Looks like it uses your standard Shimano freewheel tool for removal... you might check and see if a splined bottom bracket tool matches the spline pattern on the freewheel's lock ring.
The shiimano splined bottom bracket tool does not fit, I for sure tried that first.
The suntour power wheel lockring tool (although I don't have this) seem to not fit either, since the number of inner splines are 10 versus 12, see picture I found from suntour powerwheel http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...t/Img_2702.jpg .
Any other suggestions?
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Old 05-28-12, 09:21 PM
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Meanwhile came across another freewheel with the same lockring: System BY-BNP Slick Shift (see pictiure). So where is the tool for that lockring?
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Old 05-28-12, 10:39 PM
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I think the question is: why are you trying to take it apart? I'll bet that separate parts aren't available, and any time spent servicing it would be better spent simply replacing t and going for a ride.

FWIW: if you still want to get the lockring off, I'd try putting the freewheel in a freewheel vice. Then file down a piece of flat stock until it bridged the big splines. Twist with a Crescent wrench and see what happens.
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Old 05-28-12, 10:46 PM
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I checked up on your freewheel and the manufacture is Chinese, Long YIH Co (I know your shocked); product names are DPN Mega Gear AKA the DNP FREEWHEEL, DNP LY-100/KF WIDE RATIO FREEWHEEL and Slick Shift System by DNP. To the best of knowledge the lockring on your freewheel is used to assemble and seal the freewheel in the Chinese factory and is not meant to ever be removed; remember these freewheels cost about $1 @ to make. If you really want to get it apart I would find a similar tool and modify it with a Dremel of similar..

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Old 06-06-12, 11:44 PM
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saturnhr
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Originally Posted by onespeedbiker View Post
If you really want to get it apart I would find a similar tool and modify it with a Dremel of similar..
Thanks to Onespeedbiker : I shortened and lathed down a 1" socket a little and milled 4mm half-holes in 30deg increments. Works nicely!

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Old 06-07-12, 12:55 AM
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there are no freewheels that need lockrings, you just need a freewheel removal tool.

fixies are not freewheels, but they need LH thread lock-rings.
the cog is RH thread.

flush out the FW [solvent & re oil] , if it needs anything more,
replace it entirely..

Last edited by fietsbob; 06-07-12 at 01:03 AM.
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Old 06-07-12, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by saturnhr View Post
Thanks to Onespeedbiker : I shortened and lathed down a 1" socket a little and milled 4mm half-holes in 30deg increments. Works nicely!

Great, now what are going to do with the freewheel now that you've got it apart?
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Old 06-08-12, 03:20 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
there are no freewheels that need lockrings, you just need a freewheel removal tool.

fixies are not freewheels, but they need LH thread lock-rings.
the cog is RH thread.

flush out the FW [solvent & re oil] , if it needs anything more,
replace it entirely..
There are freewheels that use lockrings to hold the cogs on. The Shimano Hyperglide freewheels for example, use a lockring instead of a threaded top-cog to hold the stack on. That's to preserve proper orientation of the 1st to 2nd cog. And obviously the Sheng Zuan freewheel shown above uses a lockring.

This is actually a brilliant manufacturing design. All the cogs can be produced with the same spline pattern for efficiency and cost-savings. And a simple lockring at the end holds them on.

Back before cassettes were de rigeur, I used mostly Dura-ace 7-speed freewheels. I had a 12-18t straight-block for crits. Road-races were more difficult to have enough freewheels for every course, so I'd have a couple for road-races in 12-21t and 12-22t. Sometimes for a longer race or steeper climb, I'd use two chainwhips and spin off the top-cog and customize my gearing to be 12-23t or 12-24t or 12-25t.
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Old 07-08-18, 03:46 PM
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Simple Fix

Originally Posted by onespeedbiker View Post
Great, now what are going to do with the freewheel now that you've got it apart?
The usual problem is worn or stuck pawls, or the freewheel has simply lost its lubricant.

This particular one does not need the lockring removed. Simply unscrew the thread over a bowl. All the ball bearings fall out, as does the core.

Last one I did had damaged pawls through lak of lubricant. I simply replaced the pawls from my box of old bits - there is a lot of tolerance, relubricated.

The ball bearings can easily be replaced and the whole put back in working order. Took about 15 minutes. I cannot see the point of throwing away a perfectly repairable freewheel.
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Old 07-08-18, 04:21 PM
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I think what you made is for removing the freewheel from a hub. Not for disassembling the freewheel. For disassembly you need a pin type spanner that matches those two little depressions on the part beneath the splines. Don't know which way it turns as new freewheels are cheap enough to keep me from wanting to spend time on them if I can't just fix them by spraying WD40 or other light lube/solvent into the gap.

So which is it you want to do? Disassemble it? Put it back on, or planning for future removal?

nice milling job. Manual vertical mill or CNC vertical?
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Old 07-08-18, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by johnggold View Post
The usual problem is worn or stuck pawls, or the freewheel has simply lost its lubricant.

This particular one does not need the lockring removed. Simply unscrew the thread over a bowl. All the ball bearings fall out, as does the core.

Last one I did had damaged pawls through lak of lubricant. I simply replaced the pawls from my box of old bits - there is a lot of tolerance, relubricated.

The ball bearings can easily be replaced and the whole put back in working order. Took about 15 minutes. I cannot see the point of throwing away a perfectly repairable freewheel.
John, please note dates when replying. The next most-recent reply to this is from 6 years ago.
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Old 07-08-18, 04:30 PM
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Or maybe I'm wrong. I didn't realize what I was looking at in the second picture of your homemade tool. So I guess there is more than one way to build a freewheel, or I've imagined incorrectly how shimano's and suntours would come apart the few times I ever considered taking them apart.
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Old 07-08-18, 08:55 PM
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I trust if the OP could do the machine work necessary to "make" the tool he should be able to assemble it once it is apart...nice work BTW.
Best, Ben
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Old 07-16-18, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
there are no freewheels that need lockrings, you just need a freewheel removal tool.

fixies are not freewheels, but they need LH thread lock-rings.
the cog is RH thread.

flush out the FW [solvent & re oil] , if it needs anything more,
replace it entirely..
What a waste of a perfectly good freewheel. Usual freewheel problem involves either a broken spring wire or worn or jammed pawls. They are nothing special or unique. Last one I did I replaced the pawls from my spares box. I take every freewheel apart before I scrap it, and keep the spacers, pawls and springs unless worn or broken. I only have to scrap about 1 in 5 freewheels.
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Old 07-16-18, 07:51 AM
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I took one off. It had teeth on the outside. I just used a punch and hammer...and methodically worked it until it came lose.
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