bar end shifter too stiff-any ideas??
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Munich
Posts: 1,372
Bikes: Lemond Alpe d´Huez, Scott Sub 10, homemade mtb, Radlbauer adler (old city bike), Dahon impulse (folder with 20 inch wheels), haibike eq xduro
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
bar end shifter too stiff-any ideas??
I have SL-BS77 bar end shifters with Paul thumbies on my road bike. The shifter for the front triple Ultegra DR needs quite a bit of force to move the front DR towards the larger chain rings (against the spring tension).
I have checked and there doesnt seem to be a problem with the cable but as far as I can tell it just appears to be a consequence of the strength of the spring on the DR and the leverage at the shifter/DR.
Has anyone else found this problem and if so is there anyway to make shifting easier? or should I just start doing some thumb exercises?
I have checked and there doesnt seem to be a problem with the cable but as far as I can tell it just appears to be a consequence of the strength of the spring on the DR and the leverage at the shifter/DR.
Has anyone else found this problem and if so is there anyway to make shifting easier? or should I just start doing some thumb exercises?
__________________
only the dead have seen the end of mass motorized stupidity
Plato
(well if he was alive today he would have written it)
only the dead have seen the end of mass motorized stupidity
Plato
(well if he was alive today he would have written it)
#2
Cars are evil
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Philly
Posts: 112
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
if the indexed ultegra shifter is anything like my friction suntour's, you can adjust the shifter tension by adjusting two nuts on the side of the assembly that have a adjustor/locknut relationship. don't make it too loose, or it will migrate to low gear going over bumps.
if the problem is from the front derailleur on the other hand, check the cable routing below the BB shell, in the housing, or at any other pinch/friction point. wd40 on the der body also couldn't hurt.
if the problem is from the front derailleur on the other hand, check the cable routing below the BB shell, in the housing, or at any other pinch/friction point. wd40 on the der body also couldn't hurt.
#3
Cars are evil
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Philly
Posts: 112
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
nice setup BTW. how deep is the drop on your bars, and how far out do they take you?
I have a similar setup, but instead of the triathlon-style levers that plug into the bar ends, I use cyclocross-style interuptor levers, which clamp around the bars. in the place where the housing is supposed to enter the lever, I put the cable nipple. into the barends, I plugged my shifters. this keeps my shifting and braking in the same place, which I like quite a bit.
pyramid puts out cross levers for ~15 wholesale, probably double at a LBS.
I have a similar setup, but instead of the triathlon-style levers that plug into the bar ends, I use cyclocross-style interuptor levers, which clamp around the bars. in the place where the housing is supposed to enter the lever, I put the cable nipple. into the barends, I plugged my shifters. this keeps my shifting and braking in the same place, which I like quite a bit.
pyramid puts out cross levers for ~15 wholesale, probably double at a LBS.
#4
lover ....
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 243
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Another possible issue is your BB axle length. If it is too long, the chainrings will sit further outborad from where they would (ideally) to suit the geometry of the derailler.
This would result in greater spring tension, and therefore could be the cause of the problem.
This would result in greater spring tension, and therefore could be the cause of the problem.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Munich
Posts: 1,372
Bikes: Lemond Alpe d´Huez, Scott Sub 10, homemade mtb, Radlbauer adler (old city bike), Dahon impulse (folder with 20 inch wheels), haibike eq xduro
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by mynameisnotdrew
nice setup BTW. how deep is the drop on your bars, and how far out do they take you?
I have a similar setup, but instead of the triathlon-style levers that plug into the bar ends, I use cyclocross-style interuptor levers, which clamp around the bars. in the place where the housing is supposed to enter the lever, I put the cable nipple. into the barends, I plugged my shifters. this keeps my shifting and braking in the same place, which I like quite a bit.
pyramid puts out cross levers for ~15 wholesale, probably double at a LBS.
I have a similar setup, but instead of the triathlon-style levers that plug into the bar ends, I use cyclocross-style interuptor levers, which clamp around the bars. in the place where the housing is supposed to enter the lever, I put the cable nipple. into the barends, I plugged my shifters. this keeps my shifting and braking in the same place, which I like quite a bit.
pyramid puts out cross levers for ~15 wholesale, probably double at a LBS.
The bar end shifters do not seem to have any kind of adjustment so I cannot try anything there. The set up does work as it is so I am not very keen on buying a new shorter BB. In any case it seems that the stiffest part is when the DR is nearest to the frame so a new BB would probably not help.
I squirted the DR liberally with WD40 and the shifting does feel a bit better, It still cannot be described as light but it is within the limits of acceptability.
__________________
only the dead have seen the end of mass motorized stupidity
Plato
(well if he was alive today he would have written it)
only the dead have seen the end of mass motorized stupidity
Plato
(well if he was alive today he would have written it)
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by royalflash
I have SL-BS77 bar end shifters with Paul thumbies on my road bike. The shifter for the front triple Ultegra DR needs quite a bit of force to move the front DR towards the larger chain rings (against the spring tension).
I have checked and there doesnt seem to be a problem with the cable but as far as I can tell it just appears to be a consequence of the strength of the spring on the DR and the leverage at the shifter/DR.
Has anyone else found this problem and if so is there anyway to make shifting easier? or should I just start doing some thumb exercises?
I have checked and there doesnt seem to be a problem with the cable but as far as I can tell it just appears to be a consequence of the strength of the spring on the DR and the leverage at the shifter/DR.
Has anyone else found this problem and if so is there anyway to make shifting easier? or should I just start doing some thumb exercises?
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by Bike_13
Another possible issue is your BB axle length. If it is too long, the chainrings will sit further outborad from where they would (ideally) to suit the geometry of the derailler.
#8
Cars are evil
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Philly
Posts: 112
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
In any case it seems that the stiffest part is when the DR is nearest to the frame so a new BB would probably not help.
Check the routing of the cable under the BB shell. Do you have a triple or double crank? If you have a triple, is it easier to shift from the middle to the outer?
What angle does the shifter cable form with the arm that holds the anchor bolt? (see attached (crude) picture)
If the angle is bad, you either need a longer BB spindle, or your cable needs to have more left-->right travel (viewed from behind the seat tube), on its way from the BB shell to the der.
Hope this helps
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by mynameisnotdrew
Hmmm...
Check the routing of the cable under the BB shell. Do you have a triple or double crank? If you have a triple, is it easier to shift from the middle to the outer?
What angle does the shifter cable form with the arm that holds the anchor bolt? (see attached (crude) picture)
If the angle is bad, you either need a longer BB spindle, or your cable needs to have more left-->right travel (viewed from behind the seat tube), on its way from the BB shell to the der.
Hope this helps
Check the routing of the cable under the BB shell. Do you have a triple or double crank? If you have a triple, is it easier to shift from the middle to the outer?
What angle does the shifter cable form with the arm that holds the anchor bolt? (see attached (crude) picture)
If the angle is bad, you either need a longer BB spindle, or your cable needs to have more left-->right travel (viewed from behind the seat tube), on its way from the BB shell to the der.
Hope this helps
#10
Cars are evil
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Philly
Posts: 112
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by sydney
He has an ultegra triple.There is no longer BB spindle.He has the correct derailer arm.Why don't you check the picture and stop the smoke blowing?
You certainly are quick on the draw...
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Originally Posted by mynameisnotdrew
Geez, do I detect some hostility? If there is no longer BB spindle, then maybe a different cable routing under the BB shell is in order? I have had this same problem on a few project bikes I've built, and I solved it with a different BB shell cable guide.
You certainly are quick on the draw...
You certainly are quick on the draw...
#12
Cars are evil
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Philly
Posts: 112
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by sydney
I've been characterized as having an absolute intolerance for *********.
**************, eh?