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Spoke coming loose...why?

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Spoke coming loose...why?

Old 07-02-12, 02:26 PM
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Spoke coming loose...why?

I built a radially laced 48 spoke front wheel. Julian 1/8th in rims tied to surly ultra new hubs, spoke heads facing in.. Anyways One spoke keeps coming loose, it is always the same one to. The wheel is stiff as hell and stays in true. Iv been using this for a polo rig and I haven't taken and hard hits with it yet maybe a ball or two to the spokes no mallets. But it just keeps coming loose, the wheel doesnt creak or go out of true I was riding it for awhile and I noticed it when i could hear the nipple rattling against the rim.

I think I read somewhere that radially laced wheels sometimes tend to unscrew themselves?
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Old 07-02-12, 02:34 PM
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Your spoke tension may be somewhat low. And most likely, your wheel is slightly out of round or the rim or has unequal spoke tension. That might be hard to tell with stiff rims and lots of spokes. The wheel will feel plenty stiff, but there's a high spot or flat spot somewhere such that every revolution with weight on the rims, you're bottoming out just at that location and the spoke reverses tension and allows the spoke nipple to slowly unwind.
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Old 07-02-12, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Binxsy View Post
I think I read somewhere that radially laced wheels sometimes tend to unscrew themselves?
Well, with a cross lace the nipple is always sitting at a slight angle, which if the spoke goes slack offers a bit extra protection against unwinding.
If it's only one culprit, I'd treat it to some regular strenght threadlock and be done with it.
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Old 07-02-12, 03:08 PM
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Most providers of 38-43mm DeepV rims are re-labelling ultra cheap Weinmanns and B43 knock offs from Taiwan and China.

These rims have extremely poor extrusion consistency which is trued - result in one or more loose spokes. It's even worse when the joint is not straight. When radially laced, you are taking a bad situation and making it even more worse - increasing tensions to compensate put the hub at risk.

Your choices are the following:

1. Re-do the wheel and sacrifice true for even tension. It'll be a crappy wheel - but at least the spokes will be up to tension on a relatively even basis.

2. Grab a sleeve of 10 el-cheapos, run them through a caliper and check the joint against a straight edge. Pick the best two and try again.

3. Dump the rim, and instead go with a Velocity B43 or a KinLin XR-380 (lightweight) making sure they have a straight joints.

The B43 and XR-380 will provide a much higher success rate for achieving TRUE AND RELATIVE EVEN TENSION at the same time - even for radial laced wheels built within the hubs limits.

You get what you pay for...

5000+ wheels built since 1984...


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