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Cassette install question

Old 07-17-12, 09:01 AM
  #1  
NaBlade
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Cassette install question

I bought a Mavic wheelset and an Ultegra cassette, to replace my old stock Shimano wheels. I thought installation should be a breeze. However, the Mavic rear wheel came with its own spacer and the manual says to use it. Meanwhile, the Ultegra cassette also came with its own spacer, and the manual says to use it too. I'm talking about the very first spacer that's installed before any of the cogs are placed on. Should I use both, or just one? If so, which one?
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Old 07-17-12, 10:10 AM
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HillRider
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Both. The Mavic freehub bodies require a 2 mm spacer for Shimano cassettes and Shimano 10-speed cassettes include a 1 mm spacer to fit on their own 8/9/10-speed freehub bodies. So, to use a 10-speed Shimano on a Mavic hub you use both spacers before installing the cassette itself.
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Old 07-17-12, 11:53 AM
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Interesting , I've been using only one spacer for a little over 2k miles everything performs correctly
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Old 07-17-12, 12:20 PM
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Al1943
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Originally Posted by VELOGLOCK View Post
Interesting , I've been using only one spacer for a little over 2k miles everything performs correctly
It depends on the particular hub. Mavic Cassettes are 2 mm wider at the freehub than Shimano 8, 9- speed cassettes, so the Mavic spacer is needed with Shimano or SRAM cassettes. The thinner Shimano spacer is also.needed with Shimano 10-speed cassettes except with certain Shimano wheels.
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Old 07-17-12, 12:27 PM
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Simple rule that applies to ALL cassettes and ALL freehubs. Once you learn it you'll never need to ask again.

The cassette must overhang the front of the freehub body by a millimeter or so, so the lockring can compress the cassette without bottoming out against the freehub body. Use enough spaces behind the cassette to achieve this if/when needed.

It's analogous to how threadless headsets need the spacer stack to be taller than the steerer for the same reason.

BTW- if you have multiple wheels that you swap out on the same bike, there's another consideration. If you use spacers to bring the outer sprocket to the same distance behind the axle face on all the wheels, you won't need to adjust limits or trim when changing wheels back and forth. When I sponsored a team, and provided technical help, I made sure that all the teams wheels were set up to match this way, so the riders could swap wheels at any time without adjustments. It also ensured that any wheel replaced during a race would shift perfectly.

In a perfect works, the sprocket to axle face distance would be uniform for all wheels, but in practice it's close, but no cigar.
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Old 07-17-12, 08:48 PM
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NaBlade
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OP here. Thanks for all the replies, they were very helpful! And they all made sense.
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