Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Are my brake levers' cable routers backwards?

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Are my brake levers' cable routers backwards?

Old 08-02-12, 09:53 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 397
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Are my brake levers' cable routers backwards? (cable end popping out)

Not sure exactly what it is called, but you can see it in the below image.

I was testing my front brake (running new cable and housing), when SNAP, the cable pops right out of the doo-hickie that it routes through in the lever.

In the following image, the cable end is still in the larger hole. However, just a little bit more pressure, and it pops right out.



My theories:
1) Cable housing is too long. (Here is my cable routing.)
2) Cable router is backwards (channel should face up when properly installed, rather than down).
3) Hood needs trimmed just below the lever, as it touches.
4) I am experiencing a previously unknown phenomenon.
uRabbit is offline  
Old 08-02-12, 10:04 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 37,902

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 134 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5354 Post(s)
Liked 1,794 Times in 1,017 Posts
DO NOT RIDE THIS BIKE UNTIL YOU ADDRESS THIS PROBLEM

Your cables are not properly seated in the levers, and at a hard squeeze (like you'd use if in danger of collision) will burst out the side of the slot leaving you brakeless.

The correct cable has a stepped head (see Campagnolo or Shimano type) which should pocket completely in the stepped recess in the lever. You'll know it's seated correctly when the wire end of the head is peeking through the fitting a bit.

Slacken the cable, push it free of the fitting (where it's now jammed sideways) and re-seat the head, and you should be fine. If correctly seated, the head cannot escape out the side of the slot.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

Last edited by FBinNY; 08-02-12 at 10:12 PM.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 08-02-12, 11:32 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 397
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY
DO NOT RIDE THIS BIKE UNTIL YOU ADDRESS THIS PROBLEM

Your cables are not properly seated in the levers, and at a hard squeeze (like you'd use if in danger of collision) will burst out the side of the slot leaving you brakeless.

The correct cable has a stepped head (see Campagnolo or Shimano type) which should pocket completely in the stepped recess in the lever. You'll know it's seated correctly when the wire end of the head is peeking through the fitting a bit.

Slacken the cable, push it free of the fitting (where it's now jammed sideways) and re-seat the head, and you should be fine. If correctly seated, the head cannot escape out the side of the slot.
I am using the SRAM/Shimano cable. See here (but in celeste colour).

edit: Proof.



Last edited by uRabbit; 08-02-12 at 11:41 PM.
uRabbit is offline  
Old 08-03-12, 12:55 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
zukahn1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Fairplay Co
Posts: 9,408

Bikes: Current 79 Nishiki Custum Sport, Jeunet 620, notable previous bikes P.K. Ripper loop tail, Kawahara Laser Lite, Paramount Track full chrome, Raliegh Internatioanl, Motobecan Super Mirage. 59 Crown royak 3 speed

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 748 Post(s)
Liked 1,573 Times in 576 Posts
Originally Posted by uRabbit
I am using the SRAM/Shimano cable. See here (but in celeste colour).

edit: Proof.


Theses classic Wieman hammer head cables are just fine. You Just need to get all the cabling set up right slip the hammer through pull tight and hold tighten.
zukahn1 is offline  
Old 08-03-12, 01:11 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 397
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Could you take a look at my cable setup and suggest how much to shorter it by, if it is too long?
uRabbit is offline  
Old 08-03-12, 06:13 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Retro Grouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225

Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 641 Times in 362 Posts
That little barrel shaped fitting that holds the cable end - it's two sided. It has a big opening on one side and a small opening on the opposite side of the barrel. I suspect that you need to rotate it a half turn and install the cable from the other side.
Retro Grouch is offline  
Old 08-03-12, 08:35 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 37,902

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 134 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5354 Post(s)
Liked 1,794 Times in 1,017 Posts
The cable shown in the photos in post #3 are correct and correctly seated (top photo, post #3). You can see the end of the head peeking through the fitting as I described in post #2. As long as it stays this way it cannot slip out.

Note the brakes return spring provides the needed tension so the end cannot slip back and escape to the side, but sometimes it can slip while you're setting it up. If that's happening improvise a way to keep it seated while working. Anything will work, like a drop of rubber cement, or a ball of crumpled paper jammed in the lever behind it. When you're finished, check again that it's still seated properly.

BTW- brakes are important, and if you don't have confidence in your own work I suggest you let a pro or knowledgeable friend finsinh the job, or help you through it. Many bike repairs ore annoying if they aren't done right, but a brake is different. It won't fail until you need it, and then that failure can have serious consequences.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 08-03-12, 10:00 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 397
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY
The cable shown in the photos in post #3 are correct and correctly seated (top photo, post #3). You can see the end of the head peeking through the fitting as I described in post #2. As long as it stays this way it cannot slip out.

Note the brakes return spring provides the needed tension so the end cannot slip back and escape to the side, but sometimes it can slip while you're setting it up. If that's happening improvise a way to keep it seated while working. Anything will work, like a drop of rubber cement, or a ball of crumpled paper jammed in the lever behind it. When you're finished, check again that it's still seated properly.
So it might be the return spring?

Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
That little barrel shaped fitting that holds the cable end - it's two sided. It has a big opening on one side and a small opening on the opposite side of the barrel. I suspect that you need to rotate it a half turn and install the cable from the other side.
That's just where it ended up after the cable popped out.
uRabbit is offline  
Old 08-03-12, 10:28 AM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 37,902

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 134 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5354 Post(s)
Liked 1,794 Times in 1,017 Posts
Originally Posted by uRabbit
So it might be the return spring?
YOu have the bike there, not me, so it's hard to say. The Brake return spring is the only source of return tension on the cable. It's easy enough to test, by closing the brake on the rim squeezing the caliper itself. It should spring open, if it does quickly and firmly the spring is OK, if not it isn't.

Note that you can slacken the cable, and possibly disengage the head by squeezing the caliper with the lever in the open position.

Truth be told, I'm getting a bit uncomfortable based on your questions. Please, have someone check your work before riding the bike.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 08-03-12, 10:55 AM
  #10  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 397
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Don't worry, FB, I won't be riding this with troubles like this. But I do want to fix it myself.

BTW, I am currently uploading a video. If you - and others - would not mind, I would much appreciate you view it and see if it helps to diagnose the issue.
uRabbit is offline  
Old 08-03-12, 10:58 AM
  #11  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 397
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Please view the video here.



So, it actually looks like the cable is not popping out. That must have happened after the fact before, then.
uRabbit is offline  
Old 08-03-12, 11:10 AM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 37,902

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 134 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5354 Post(s)
Liked 1,794 Times in 1,017 Posts
It looks OK, staying seated. But the lever travel seems excessive, so you might want to loosen the pinch bolt and shorten the cable so the brakes open only far enough to clear the wheel when open. Remember to recheck the the head stays seated if/when you slacken the cable.

Then before riding squeeze the lever as you would if you saw a cement truck crossing your path. The head should stay pocketed. If you see it shifted sideways in the slot, the fitting is spread open and not safe to ride. Sometimes you can pinch it closed when the cable is out, but you need to be sure the head says in the pocket with bulletproof reliability. If you have any doubt about the reliability, replace the entire lever.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 08-03-12, 11:26 AM
  #13  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 397
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Where exactly is the pinch bolt located?

Edit: Haha! I re-read your post. I am used to calling that the anchor bolt. For some reason, I thought you were referring to something in the lever itself. Ha!

Last edited by uRabbit; 08-03-12 at 11:36 AM.
uRabbit is offline  
Old 08-03-12, 11:40 AM
  #14  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 397
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Okay, I cannot tell you how many times I have adjusted the length of that cable in attempt to get it to stop popping like that... But apparently this time it worked. I slammed on that thing harder than I ever have had to, and it still held. Interesting, to say the least. Haha.
uRabbit is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
NatUp
Bicycle Mechanics
23
01-27-14 03:01 PM
Ithaka
Bicycle Mechanics
7
08-20-12 10:18 PM
v1ral
General Cycling Discussion
9
03-01-11 10:37 AM
jl7676
Bicycle Mechanics
4
12-11-10 03:27 PM
masont
Bicycle Mechanics
4
03-05-10 09:52 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.