What is this tool?
 

Okay, I know what it is but it is a bit obscure and is the combination of 3 tools for a specific purpose; anyone from New York is not allowed to answer :p


http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=266046

Looks like a convoluted way to get leverage on an allen wrench.

It's to remove a Campy C-record Crankset w/self-extracing bolts.

Well this thread is not going to last very long. Indeed that's what it is. The second question is why was it necessary to make such a convoluted tool?

This is Campagnolo you are dealing with. They don't need to explain why such complexity is needed. Look at their chains and chain tools for examples.

Because it's C-Record.

:roflmao2:

It sorta looks like an Allen wrench stuck into that thingy the doctor hits your knee with to check your reflexes. The top almost looks like a stethescope.

At Campy the motto is, "We make it this way because we can." Convoluted isn't all that easy to make.

That fits. But other companies do stuff that's more annoying. Or they don't redeem themselves with other qualities.

In other words, you could do worse than buying Campagnolo.

So what is the thingy on the allen wrench? just an extender with a hex hole to grip that allen wrench?

Does it have a reduction gear? It resembles a bit the wrench for the wheel bolts on a heavy truck, where instead of handing you a 2meter breaker bar with wrench, it's a small (about 700mm) wrench but with a reduction planetary gear in the head, so you can apply more torque on the bolt. The stationary part (the ring gear), is on the head casing that is resting with an arm on the next bolt. Reduction gear is about 4 to 1. - cool toy, too bad it's only for that socket that is embedded on the key and cannot work with other bits and sockets.

Is it for sale?

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...6&d=1344366491

Is the short end of the Allen wrench supposed to be used instead? And the other bit is to hold it straight, and you are not supposed to think about how a T-bar handle with a 6mm Allen bit would achieve the same thing?

I've seen those. 30ish years ago when I was a truck owner/operator, I had a wrench that was specially made for the old, (now thankfully) obsolete stud piloted wheel system. It had an outer tube with a socket on the end to fit the outer nut, a shaft with a square wrench on the end to fit the inner nut fit down through the tube. A gear on the end of the inner wrench engaged a counter gear. the counter gear was then turned with the handle to rotate the outer nut off or on while holding the inner nut in place.
Aha, found a picture.

http://i50.tinypic.com/2i6i6nr.jpg

Yeah, it's just a way to drive a 7mm hex key with the typical "peanut-butter wrench" used on regular crank bolts. I give them style points... simply making a long 7mm hex key, or (even more lowbrow) a 3/8"-drive socket with a 7mm hex bit would've been much too mundane.

An allen key, that doodad for getting stones out of horses' hooves, and an American flag by the looks of it.

Winner. There was no end to the issues that Campy created with these C-Record cranks. After Campy released the C Record cranks with the self extracting 7mm hex crank bolts, they immediately started getting complaints from the biking community that the only available 7mm hex wrenches were the small "L" shaped shown in the picture that didn't have enough leverage to remove the crank arm. Campy, assuming the mechanics had both the 7mm wrench (which you could also buy from Campy at an absurd price) and their 15mm P-Nut butter wrench released this tool in order to combine the two so one could have enough leverage. There was also a special tool to remove the the retention ring which had very small pin holes and was usually too tight for a spanner wrench; see the below photo of the tool (this actually works very well for it's intended purpose). The final issue were the retention rings had left hand threads, which meant if the self-extracting bolts failed, or the rings were lost, you had to buy a special left handed crank extractor to remove the crank arms. Being a tool nut I have most of these tools and no none are for sale.:lol:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=266204

Yep, that's about the thing, only a bit different, you could not see the gears in it.
More like:
http://home.vicnet.net.au/~coromal/M...l/DSC_6215.JPG
http://www.globalminingproducts.com/...lashholder.jpg
http://www.tradevv.com/chinasupplier...ug-Wrench.html
http://www.ameintl.net/product-detai...product_id=286
http://www.12vautotech.com/ezlug.html

Cool toys, anyway.

As for the tool in cause, a 3/8" drive or 1/2" drive socket set would suffice for removing 7mm inbus (allen) bolts. I tend to use this type of inbus wrenches as I have them and use them from bikes to cars to trucks and so on, but a good set of bits and wrenches are pretty steep and overkill for a bike.

With my C-Record cranks, I just put a box end wrench on the allen wrench as a cheater bar.

that 2 piece <C> crank joins in the center, have to tighten the halves together some how.

Oooo, I don't have that one :) but I do have the left-hand-thread extractor, their fancy hub-dustcap puller, aaaaaaand...

...


...

...a Schwinn kickstand tool AND the solid-unobtainium Schwinn Headset Wrench :eek: among my more interesting/unique tools.

I applaud Campagnolo for inventing the most efficient tool in the history of cycling: the money-extractor tool.

Boy, do you have this right! Who else could get almost $200 for a chain tool!

Goes with the $300 cork puller.

And with the $5300 speaker cable and the..... $7000 power cord!