Vintage Fork Rake question
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Vintage Fork Rake question
This is a 1971 Steyr Clubman. I am working towards making this a rainy day commuter. I have stock fenders and rack that came with the bike. What can I expect from the way raked fork? Will it steer like a slow moving bus? Will it smooth out the ride? Will it perform as more modern relaxed geometry bike?
I have also included a picture of another older fork. The rake may look more dramatic because of the way the dropouts are oriented.

I have also included a picture of another older fork. The rake may look more dramatic because of the way the dropouts are oriented.


Last edited by owen006; 09-17-12 at 03:14 PM. Reason: photo
#2
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As with speed, it's the rider not the bike - bike handling skills are more important than geometry. The large fork rake in older bikes were there for two reasons - a theory that the decreased trail made the bike more responsive and to absorb shock (the latter is also the reason for the long rear stays on your frame). As the head tube angle appears to be relaxed as well it will partially offset the long rake as far as trail is concerned. The long wheelbase will of course increase the minimum turning radius, but that is seldom a factor in riding.
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There's no such thing as a routine repair.
Don't tell me what "should" be - either it is, it isn't, or do something about it.
If you think I'm being blunt take it as a compliment - if I thought you were too weak to handle the truth or a strong opinion I would not bother.
Please respect others by taking the time to post clearly so we can answer quickly. All lowercase and multiple typos makes for a hard read. Thanks!
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As with speed, it's the rider not the bike - bike handling skills are more important than geometry. The large fork rake in older bikes were there for two reasons - a theory that the decreased trail made the bike more responsive and to absorb shock (the latter is also the reason for the long rear stays on your frame). As the head tube angle appears to be relaxed as well it will partially offset the long rake as far as trail is concerned. The long wheelbase will of course increase the minimum turning radius, but that is seldom a factor in riding.
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owen006, With what appears a slack head tube angle and a fork with that much offset, I think you'll have a very stable riding bicycle that's not easily upset with road irregularities. The long wheelbase will also help.
I would expect the Clubman to handle like my '80 RRA, which handles much like my Cannondale touring bike which isn't as 'flickable' as my Cannondale roadies, which aren't as 'flickable' as my Cannondale crit bike.
Brad
I would expect the Clubman to handle like my '80 RRA, which handles much like my Cannondale touring bike which isn't as 'flickable' as my Cannondale roadies, which aren't as 'flickable' as my Cannondale crit bike.
Brad
#5
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larger offset, makes an easier handling bike with e front load,
benefit when setting the bike up with a big front basket or Porteur rack
or , front panniers.. lower trail , a result of bigger offset in fork rake, has benefits.
benefit when setting the bike up with a big front basket or Porteur rack
or , front panniers.. lower trail , a result of bigger offset in fork rake, has benefits.
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Fork leg curvature is not necessarily the determining factor of fork rake offset. A modern straight legged fork may have as much or even more rake offset than a curved fork. A straight leg fork has more angle change just below the crown. The OP's fork shown in Post #1 has little or no change in angle at the crown or upper part of the legs.
More fork rake offset means less steering trail and quicker turning. Less rake offset means more trail and more straight ahead stability.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle...cycle_geometry
More fork rake offset means less steering trail and quicker turning. Less rake offset means more trail and more straight ahead stability.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle...cycle_geometry
Last edited by Al1943; 08-14-12 at 12:46 PM.
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this question can't really be answered without knowing the trail. The rake alone does not determine trail. For a given head tube angle (in normal bicycle geometry range), more rake should decrease the trail and quicken the steering. This is helpful if you have a front load, but may not be acceptable unloaded. The frame in the OP looks like it has a fairly slack head angle, so the large rake may be needed to let the bike turn acceptably
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this question can't really be answered without knowing the trail. The rake alone does not determine trail. For a given head tube angle (in normal bicycle geometry range), more rake should decrease the trail and quicken the steering. This is helpful if you have a front load, but may not be acceptable unloaded. The frame in the OP looks like it has a fairly slack head angle, so the large rake may be needed to let the bike turn acceptably
I read somewhere once that Grant Peterson of Rivendell likes his fork blades to curve late and tight. Not sure this example is quite what he was thinking though.
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Generally the fork's material is thought to have more of a cushioning or stiffening effect than the curvature. Aluminum forks are thought to be stiffer or harsher than steel or carbon fiber.
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There are roughly three groups of curve styles; these old ones, later steel forks, and the larger radius again on bonded aluminium or carbon forks; on mine the curve begins less than halfway down the blade.
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Finished product: Steyr Clubman 1971ish commuter



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That is a nice bike! How does it handle, in the end?
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I have riden to work twice-44 total miles. The bike handles very well and is smother than the 1991 Paramount I had been using as my commuter. So far so good. Still tweaking here and there. Not real pleased with the Sora front deraileur, may have to upgrade there. As is now, every thing used on the bike I had on hand except for the tires and tubes.