what kind of grease
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 166
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
what kind of grease
when people grease their wheels or bb or headset what is used?
i am assuming that it is something that needs to be greased on assembly or rebuild (like loose balls)
what about threads for assembly of things that we don't want to move. (pedal to crank) or bottle cages
not looking to talk about chain lube that seems like a bigger topic that I care to open up now.
i am assuming that it is something that needs to be greased on assembly or rebuild (like loose balls)
what about threads for assembly of things that we don't want to move. (pedal to crank) or bottle cages
not looking to talk about chain lube that seems like a bigger topic that I care to open up now.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 36,942
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4887 Post(s)
Liked 939 Times
in
561 Posts
The grease debate isn't anywhere as spirited as the chain lube debate, but there's plenty here if you do a cursory search.
Generally just about anything is OK, but you want something sticky to keep loose balls in place while reassembling bearings, stiff enough not to melt and spin out in summer heat, yet soft enough to minimize viscous drag.
If you ride all season, marine grade greases are usually more water resistant/repellant (nothing is waterproof).
Personally, I'm still partial tom whitish lithium based greases, mainly because I can use color change as an indicator of possible problems, but other than that the field is wide open/
Generally just about anything is OK, but you want something sticky to keep loose balls in place while reassembling bearings, stiff enough not to melt and spin out in summer heat, yet soft enough to minimize viscous drag.
If you ride all season, marine grade greases are usually more water resistant/repellant (nothing is waterproof).
Personally, I'm still partial tom whitish lithium based greases, mainly because I can use color change as an indicator of possible problems, but other than that the field is wide open/
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Beaufort, South Carolina, USA and surrounding islands.
Posts: 8,521
Bikes: Cannondale R500, Motobecane Messenger
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I use marine grade bearing grease, as I am on the coast. The Park bicycle grease oxidizes too fast for my liking.
#5
Senior Member
I used to use white lithium but switched to marine grease. The white lithium worked fine but, being thinner than the marine grease, didn't stay in place quite as well. Plus I buy marine grease by the tub to service my trailer's axles so have it around anyway.
#6
Really Old Senior Member
Any automotive wheel bearing type grease will be fine.
My "current" tub is boat trailer wheel bearing grease.
I might try a tub of synthetic when I run out in a few years.
I think servicing the bearings on a regular basis is far more important than the grease used.
You can inspect bearings/cones for the start of minor pitting etc. BEFORE it ruins a hub.
The other things you mentioned shouldn't move if somewhat properly torqued.
My "current" tub is boat trailer wheel bearing grease.
I might try a tub of synthetic when I run out in a few years.
I think servicing the bearings on a regular basis is far more important than the grease used.
You can inspect bearings/cones for the start of minor pitting etc. BEFORE it ruins a hub.
The other things you mentioned shouldn't move if somewhat properly torqued.
#7
Banned
what about threads for assembly of things that we don't want to move. (pedal to crank) or bottle cages
and not corrode in place, as soon as dry fitting..
But factories don't tend to grease bolts , as that takes extra time..
and bins full of pre greased bolts is too messy.
so there is that ..
#8
Engineer
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucharest, Romania, Europe
Posts: 590
Bikes: 1989 Krapf (with Dura-ace) road bike, 1973 Sputnik (made by XB3) road bike , 1961 Peugeot fixed gear, 2010 Trek 4400
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
A good practice that so far i've seen in aircraft, automotive, motorcycles etc, but not for bikes (yet).
Personally i use yellow lithium grease for automotive wheel bearings (i have it on hand at any time), and for threads if i have it on hand i apply blue* loctite paste (if not, the above grease will do just fine)
*Blue is for non permanent assembly like most bolts on a car. Red is for semi-permanent assembly. And other colors, check Locrite's website if you're intersted. But don't bother to buy such paste just for a few bolts found on a bike unless you work with more advanced mechanical stuff like a car/truck/motorcycle where in some areas may be almost mandatory.
#9
Kitten Legion Master
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 900
Bikes: Fuji silhouette, Dawes SST-aL
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
In automotive part, threads on bolts are not greased, but they have a paste on them (Loctite stuff). Not messy at all and it's color coded. As well that paste helps removal of seized bolts by heating the bolt with a heatgun and the paste melts and loosens the bolt.
A good practice that so far i've seen in aircraft, automotive, motorcycles etc, but not for bikes (yet).
Personally i use yellow lithium grease for automotive wheel bearings (i have it on hand at any time), and for threads if i have it on hand i apply blue* loctite paste (if not, the above grease will do just fine)
*Blue is for non permanent assembly like most bolts on a car. Red is for semi-permanent assembly. And other colors, check Locrite's website if you're intersted. But don't bother to buy such paste just for a few bolts found on a bike unless you work with more advanced mechanical stuff like a car/truck/motorcycle where in some areas may be almost mandatory.
A good practice that so far i've seen in aircraft, automotive, motorcycles etc, but not for bikes (yet).
Personally i use yellow lithium grease for automotive wheel bearings (i have it on hand at any time), and for threads if i have it on hand i apply blue* loctite paste (if not, the above grease will do just fine)
*Blue is for non permanent assembly like most bolts on a car. Red is for semi-permanent assembly. And other colors, check Locrite's website if you're intersted. But don't bother to buy such paste just for a few bolts found on a bike unless you work with more advanced mechanical stuff like a car/truck/motorcycle where in some areas may be almost mandatory.
Blue threadlocker is good stuff, but should it be used on aluminum parts? I know it should not be used on plastic.
#10
Engineer
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucharest, Romania, Europe
Posts: 590
Bikes: 1989 Krapf (with Dura-ace) road bike, 1973 Sputnik (made by XB3) road bike , 1961 Peugeot fixed gear, 2010 Trek 4400
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/...r-Blue-242.htm
#11
Kitten Legion Master
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 900
Bikes: Fuji silhouette, Dawes SST-aL
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
IDK about aluminum on bikes but definitely is very good with transmission covers, engine blocks, distribution covers, all sorts of mounting brackets on the engine block (alternators, pumps etc) - all made out of aluminium alloy.

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/...r-Blue-242.htm

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/...r-Blue-242.htm

#13
rebmeM roineS
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Metro Indy, IN
Posts: 16,191
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 646 Post(s)
Liked 331 Times
in
216 Posts
Commonly used with aluminum. For instance, on the screws that secure a brake rotor to an aluminum hub.
__________________
Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 250
Bikes: '86 Trek Elance 400; '83 Trek 520; 90s Specialized Crossroads, '84 Trek 610 (wife's), 90s Trek Multitrack (wife's), Cargo Trailers, Burley for the Kids, WeeHoo Trailer
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Back to the grease. I usually use Park's in my bottom bracket or headset. I've used both on threads and Park's on seatposts and old quill stems. I've also used a teflon based grease for all the above purposes. Both have been fine as I'm sure most automotive or marine bearing greases would be. One thing I learned in my cursory research on the subject is that different greases can have different bases that are not compatible with one another. So, when switching grease, I make extra sure to clean it all out.
#15
Sausage King
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 150
Bikes: 2008 Specialized Langster, Kilo WT, 1986 Dahon Classic Folder, 1986 Panasonic Mountain Cat
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Been mentioned a hundred times but I vote for marine wheel bearing grease. Love the stuff. I also use Park Polylube 1000. Basically whichever I have handy at the moment.
#16
Friendship is Magic
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Big Tomato
Posts: 21,569
Bikes: old ones
Mentioned: 300 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24536 Post(s)
Liked 8,271 Times
in
5,785 Posts
This is one of the calmest and most boring lubrication threads
I've ever seen here....................
Where's the fire, the controversy, the incredible commitment to
"my way or the highway" ?..............................
I've ever seen here....................

Where's the fire, the controversy, the incredible commitment to
"my way or the highway" ?..............................

__________________
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 749
Bikes: Specialized Crux Elite X1, Specialized Roubaix SL4 Expert, Specialized Crux Disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
In the motorcycle world, I used Mobil 1 Synthetic grease. I was having a problem with a noisy BB on my Madone. I had my LBS order me a new BB, but in the mean time, I had them repack it for a 2nd time with the Mobil 1 grease. Now I have new BB bearings just sitting on my shelf. The stuff is incredible. My LBS liked it so much I purchased them a tub since they do a lot of things for me no charge.
The problem I have with white lithium, is it seems I can easily wipe it off, and I have even had it cake on me in certain instances (not bikes).
I told the LBS, any time they do anything on my bike, PLEASE use the Mobil 1 stiff.
PS, a tub was $10 at Pep-Boys.
The problem I have with white lithium, is it seems I can easily wipe it off, and I have even had it cake on me in certain instances (not bikes).
I told the LBS, any time they do anything on my bike, PLEASE use the Mobil 1 stiff.
PS, a tub was $10 at Pep-Boys.
__________________
Gary F.
2019 Specialized Crux Elite X1
2015 Specialized Roubaix SL4 Expert
My bike page: https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles
Build a bike stand! https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles/stands.html
Gary F.
2019 Specialized Crux Elite X1
2015 Specialized Roubaix SL4 Expert
My bike page: https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles
Build a bike stand! https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles/stands.html
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 269
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
In the motorcycle world, I used Mobil 1 Synthetic grease. I was having a problem with a noisy BB on my Madone. I had my LBS order me a new BB, but in the mean time, I had them repack it for a 2nd time with the Mobil 1 grease. Now I have new BB bearings just sitting on my shelf. The stuff is incredible. My LBS liked it so much I purchased them a tub since they do a lot of things for me no charge.
The problem I have with white lithium, is it seems I can easily wipe it off, and I have even had it cake on me in certain instances (not bikes).
I told the LBS, any time they do anything on my bike, PLEASE use the Mobil 1 stiff.
PS, a tub was $10 at Pep-Boys.
The problem I have with white lithium, is it seems I can easily wipe it off, and I have even had it cake on me in certain instances (not bikes).
I told the LBS, any time they do anything on my bike, PLEASE use the Mobil 1 stiff.
PS, a tub was $10 at Pep-Boys.
Mobil 1 oil is in all my vehicles (even the Lawn mower) and Mobil 1 grease is in 3 of my 5 bikes.
#19
Mostly harmless ™
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Novi Sad
Posts: 4,273
Bikes: Custom made on Scott Speedster frame, Custom made on a 1996. steel MTB frame (all but frame changed at least once in the past 20 years).
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1026 Post(s)
Liked 113 Times
in
75 Posts
For bolts to prevent seizure, but not allow them to come off by themselves, copper grease is good and cheap. Lithium soap based grease for bearings etc. Works nice. Loctite - not much of a fan. Only if a bolt came getting undone would I use it. Even the blue one.
#20
You gonna eat that?
#21
Sir Fallalot
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 5,286
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
10 Posts
The most experienced and knowledgeable bike mechanic I've ever met, uses simple vaseline for bearings.
Personally I use a gray lithium-based grease and so far, it served me well.
Personally I use a gray lithium-based grease and so far, it served me well.