How can I install rear V brake mounts on a frame made for just disc brakes?
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Mosltly Canada
Posts: 2
Bikes: 2009 Novora Saffari, 1997 Giant terago MTB,
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
How can I install rear V brake mounts on a frame made for just disc brakes?
Hello,
I have a 2009 Novora Saffari touring bike. I would like to change over to V brakes mainly for the simplicity when touring (easier to repair V brakes in most of world).
The frame does not have mounts to equip v brakes. Does anyone know is there a way to attach the mounts? Are there any mounts that can be attached without the need to weld or drill?
Thanks!
I have a 2009 Novora Saffari touring bike. I would like to change over to V brakes mainly for the simplicity when touring (easier to repair V brakes in most of world).
The frame does not have mounts to equip v brakes. Does anyone know is there a way to attach the mounts? Are there any mounts that can be attached without the need to weld or drill?
Thanks!
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Posts: 5,772
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 452 Post(s)
Liked 103 Times
in
86 Posts
Buy a different frame, or up(down)grade to the 2013 Safari which has rim brakes.
If the frame isn't designed for rim brakes, there is no realistic way of doing this.
What's the hang up with discs? They have been common place on MTB's for the last 15 years, and work fine, they will stop better in wet conditions than a rim brake will, and you don;t have to worry so much about damage to the rim, and the braking surface as you do with rim brakes.
If the frame isn't designed for rim brakes, there is no realistic way of doing this.
What's the hang up with discs? They have been common place on MTB's for the last 15 years, and work fine, they will stop better in wet conditions than a rim brake will, and you don;t have to worry so much about damage to the rim, and the braking surface as you do with rim brakes.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2025 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,085 Times
in
733 Posts
Buy a different frame, or up(down)grade to the 2013 Safari which has rim brakes.
If the frame isn't designed for rim brakes, there is no realistic way of doing this.
What's the hang up with discs? They have been common place on MTB's for the last 15 years, and work fine, they will stop better in wet conditions than a rim brake will, and you don;t have to worry so much about damage to the rim, and the braking surface as you do with rim brakes.
If the frame isn't designed for rim brakes, there is no realistic way of doing this.
What's the hang up with discs? They have been common place on MTB's for the last 15 years, and work fine, they will stop better in wet conditions than a rim brake will, and you don;t have to worry so much about damage to the rim, and the braking surface as you do with rim brakes.
This is a bit of an unusual request as the majority of questions on this forum asking about brake changes are looking for a way to install disc brakes on a non-disc frame.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 621
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If you're jumpy about field maintenance of hydraulics then you could make a compromise and fit mechanical disks. The cables are, of course, just cables - more fallible than a hydraulic line perhaps - but eminently maintainable in the boonies. The internal mechanism inside the caliper is extremely simple. You'd probably need to carry pads though.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2025 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,085 Times
in
733 Posts
If you're jumpy about field maintenance of hydraulics then you could make a compromise and fit mechanical disks. The cables are, of course, just cables - more fallible than a hydraulic line perhaps - but eminently maintainable in the boonies. The internal mechanism inside the caliper is extremely simple. You'd probably need to carry pads though.
#6
Senior member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 8,010
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 911 Post(s)
Liked 539 Times
in
316 Posts
And there ain't much wrong with the higher end mechanical discs. Might be worth the expense of upgrading to Avid BB7 or one of the higher end Shimano offerings for touring.
#7
smelling the roses
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Tixkokob, Yucatán, México
Posts: 15,428
Bikes: 79 Trek 930, 80 Trek 414, 84 Schwinn Letour Luxe (coupled), 92 Schwinn Paramount PDG 5
Mentioned: 104 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7081 Post(s)
Liked 900 Times
in
612 Posts
You can buy (or at least you can here) mounts and have them brazed on. I did it on my daily rider, where one of them broke. I'm not touring, but I'm riding it daily, to the tune of 10,000 miles, or so, since the replacement. It was done on the (steel) fork, by the general welder around the corner.
https://www.google.com/imgres?hl=es-4...r:12,s:0,i:109
https://www.google.com/imgres?hl=es-4...r:12,s:0,i:109
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 6,957
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
You could also email Moots and see if they still make Moots Mounts, which are brake studs that mount to a stay using a steel band, similar to endless-band front derailleurs from the '80s and '90s. Here's a pic, you can't really see the steel band here: https://www.firstflightbikes.com/_bor...ots24Brake.JPG
#10
Banned
inverted U adapters are made for BMX bikes to go from a side-pull, center bolt ,
to a V brake ... if you must .., the horseshoe has the V brake bosses.
to a V brake ... if you must .., the horseshoe has the V brake bosses.
#11
MIKE is my name!
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: finland,baltimore
Posts: 2,887
Bikes: hans lutz, , puch mistral ultima,2x Austro Daimler Smoked chrome Ultima,Austro Daimler Mixte,Austro Daimler 531 mixte, flying arrow,F Moser,
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times
in
4 Posts
sell bike
buy older model w rim type brakes
keep extra money.
buy older model w rim type brakes
keep extra money.
#14
Guest
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Grid Reference, SK
Posts: 3,768
Bikes: I never learned to ride a bike. It is my deepest shame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
You can buy (or at least you can here) mounts and have them brazed on. I did it on my daily rider, where one of them broke. I'm not touring, but I'm riding it daily, to the tune of 10,000 miles, or so, since the replacement. It was done on the (steel) fork, by the general welder around the corner.
https://www.google.com/imgres?hl=es-4...r:12,s:0,i:109
https://www.google.com/imgres?hl=es-4...r:12,s:0,i:109
#15
Guest
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Grid Reference, SK
Posts: 3,768
Bikes: I never learned to ride a bike. It is my deepest shame.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
Carry spare pads, and if you really want to be sure there is nothing you can't handle, a spare caliper and rotor.
You could also probably find a set of very long-reach caliper brakes (like BMX brakes) that could be made to work... although you may have disk specific wheels without an appropriate brake track, and that would mean to get rim brakes to work properly you would have to swap rims to a rim-brake model.
You would also probably need to run full-length cable housing to connect to the brakes on the seatstays instead of at the axle.
You could also probably find a set of very long-reach caliper brakes (like BMX brakes) that could be made to work... although you may have disk specific wheels without an appropriate brake track, and that would mean to get rim brakes to work properly you would have to swap rims to a rim-brake model.
You would also probably need to run full-length cable housing to connect to the brakes on the seatstays instead of at the axle.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 2,255
Bikes: Specialized Sequoia Elite/Motobecane Fantom Cross Team Ti/'85 Trek 520
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
If you wanted to be really cheesy, you could build an adapter like I made for moving the canti posts for a 26" frame to 700c wheels.
The difference between what I did and you will have to do is that you will have to use some sort of strong hose clamp to attach the horseshoe to the frame. I used the existing 26" brake studs which you don't have. Using strong hose clamps really shouldn't be a problem since the majority of the stress from braking hard will be exerted on the horseshoe itself rather than the clamps.
This is what I made:
The difference between what I did and you will have to do is that you will have to use some sort of strong hose clamp to attach the horseshoe to the frame. I used the existing 26" brake studs which you don't have. Using strong hose clamps really shouldn't be a problem since the majority of the stress from braking hard will be exerted on the horseshoe itself rather than the clamps.
This is what I made:

#17
smelling the roses
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Tixkokob, Yucatán, México
Posts: 15,428
Bikes: 79 Trek 930, 80 Trek 414, 84 Schwinn Letour Luxe (coupled), 92 Schwinn Paramount PDG 5
Mentioned: 104 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7081 Post(s)
Liked 900 Times
in
612 Posts

#18
Senior Member
If you wanted to be really cheesy, you could build an adapter like I made for moving the canti posts for a 26" frame to 700c wheels.
The difference between what I did and you will have to do is that you will have to use some sort of strong hose clamp to attach the horseshoe to the frame. I used the existing 26" brake studs which you don't have. Using strong hose clamps really shouldn't be a problem since the majority of the stress from braking hard will be exerted on the horseshoe itself rather than the clamps.
This is what I made:

The difference between what I did and you will have to do is that you will have to use some sort of strong hose clamp to attach the horseshoe to the frame. I used the existing 26" brake studs which you don't have. Using strong hose clamps really shouldn't be a problem since the majority of the stress from braking hard will be exerted on the horseshoe itself rather than the clamps.
This is what I made:

#21
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Mosltly Canada
Posts: 2
Bikes: 2009 Novora Saffari, 1997 Giant terago MTB,
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thank you all very much for all the replies! Thank you MechBgon for looking into the mounts! Shame they are no longer made. The brake booster adaptor is very impressive. Lots to think about.
#22
Senior Member
Disk brakes work good on my bikes, commuter mountain and tourer. They should work good for yours as well. Try the BB-7'S.
#23
Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If you wanted to be really cheesy, you could build an adapter like I made for moving the canti posts for a 26" frame to 700c wheels.
The difference between what I did and you will have to do is that you will have to use some sort of strong hose clamp to attach the horseshoe to the frame. I used the existing 26" brake studs which you don't have. Using strong hose clamps really shouldn't be a problem since the majority of the stress from braking hard will be exerted on the horseshoe itself rather than the clamps.
This is what I made:

The difference between what I did and you will have to do is that you will have to use some sort of strong hose clamp to attach the horseshoe to the frame. I used the existing 26" brake studs which you don't have. Using strong hose clamps really shouldn't be a problem since the majority of the stress from braking hard will be exerted on the horseshoe itself rather than the clamps.
This is what I made:

#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Lincoln Ne
Posts: 9,815
Bikes: RANS Stratus TerraTrike Tour II
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3238 Post(s)
Liked 1,007 Times
in
603 Posts
Remember going to rim brakes could lead to rim failure. On long tours there will be days of riding in the rain. That means fine wet grit that will grind down the rims. If a rim cracks or breaks, you are on foot. In the case of some failure of a disc brake, you still have one brake, and can continue.