smasha

i'm pretty sure this was botched by the factory... the disc-brake bolt-holes are so close to the outer edge of the hub flange that i can feel raised bumps along the outside edge where the bolt-holes are. for aluminium (NZ spell checker), that seems way too close to the edge.

so... i got the bolts in, finger-tight (star pattern). then i went to snug them up, but not yet torque them, (again in a star pattern) and one of the bolts, as soon as the bolt-head touched the disc rotor, i felt it get "smooshy". now i've got a brand new hub with a stripped bolt-hole.

it's easy for the retailer/distributor/manufacturer to say that it was my fault for over-torquing the bolt and stripping the hole, even though i didn't even "really" tighten the bolt, yet. so i'm expecting some resistance in getting this sorted... did i mention these are brand new rims? how do i document that the holes are so close to the edge of the rim that there's actually a bump on the outer edge of the rim? it's probably too small to get on camera, and i'll likely be dealing with international return shipping and all of that fun.

while i'm here... does anyone make a backing plate that the bolts can screw into? i'm thinking two half-circles, each with three threaded holes. something like that might get me sorted, but i'm not sure if anyone makes such a thing. if i just put a nut behind the flange and screw the bolt into that, i'm afraid i'll just squish the flange, or pull the bolt through the outer edge of the flange.

dddd

A picture would be worth a thousand words!

mrrabbit 

Judging by how you got lost in your own post - you're mad at yourself for screwing it up are'nt you?

1. You knew you were working with holes near the edge of the flange - common with 58mm disc hubs.
2. You didn't test the holes BEFORE installation - I check my hubs in inventory.
3. You probably passed on the locktite and went total reliance on torque.
4. Somehow, you ended up talking about disc brake mounting holes on the rim?

Next time, test, then blue locktite on the bolts, and then install somewhere between finger tight and wrist tight.

=8-)

smasha

the bolts did have blue loctite (they came that way with the BB7s). as i said, before i put the torque wrench on them, one of the holes fell apart as soon as the bolt-head touched the disc rotor. i was NOT using wrist strength at that point - just enough torque to get the bolts into the holes.

smasha

here's a picture of half of the disc rotor mounting flange, with a rag behind it for contrast. in the close-up, there is a bump visible above the centre (stripped out) hole. in my hands, i can feel a similar bump above some of the other holes.

mrrabbit 

Very common with generic 58mm disc hubs...

I'm betting that hole was already gone - you simply revealed it. That second picture is all you need to make the case that this hub failed because is was drilled just a hair too close.

Don't lose that photo...

=8-)

smasha

i'm not sure if these are generic hubs or not...? they came with a name-brand wheel-set, but the hubs themselves aren't branded. i won't mention any names until i get it sorted.

mrrabbit - i hope you're right about the picture showing that it's a defect from the factory, but i'm still expecting an uphill battle to get it sorted.

if things don't go well with replacements, is there a plate that can go behind the disc mounting flange? any other ways to salvage something like this? i really don't want to run it with three bolts, especially seeing how solid the bolt holes are

fietsbob

A) threadlock will keep the bolt secure, new they have a dab on each,
but the liquid sets up when in those confined gaps.

B) is of course look for a different hub.. now you can spot what you don't want, again.

The Shimano Centerlock Spline disc hub types has a number
of adapters to use 6 bolt discs , on them.

my schmidt dynohub on my Bike friday uses that, Centerlock scheme,
EZ to pull the disc off to pack it so it stays flat ,
when I remove the wheel for Packing.. in the suitcase .

dddd

I'm thinking that longer bolts with hex nuts would work fine, but the bolts are not just any old generic-grade I'm sure.

I also agree that perhaps these wheels were returns that got sent to you with the hole pre-stripped. It woulda taken real torque otherwise, unless the tapping operation was not clean, i.e. was done with dull tap, infrequent direction reversal or no tapping lubricant.

goodfishs

haha,yeah. A picture would be worth a thousand words! ,the picture is very good, thanks for your sharing