taJai

I have an old mountain bike frame (92 ish Giant ATX 770) that I was considering converting to fixed a couple years ago. I’m reconsidering because finding the magic ratio is a pain and I think I’d rather just do a SS with a tensioner and be done with it. I installed the Fixxer a while ago and want to remove it, but I can’t get the actual threaded alloy body out of the hub for the life of me. I’d rather not damage it as it’s unused and I might keep it around for a future project or sell it.

Does anybody have any tips for removal of the threaded alloy body?

Thanks.

Crandrew

i would go to my lbs

Scrodzilla

Moving to Mechanics.

taJai

Ah thanks Scrod. Sorry about that.

Yeah I was planning on taking it to a LBS but thought I'd post it up here and see if anybody had any experience with this thing.

BTW, the axle is out as is the 10mm hex bolt that wedged the sucker in there. Now all that remains is the alloy piece.

Asi

You mean removing a fixed gear sprocket from the hub? The hub is laced to a rim or single? The hub is "suicide" (freewheel threaded) or a proper track step thread and lockring?

The sprocket itself is right hand threaded (normal), and the lockring is LEFT-hand threaded (clockwise to loosen it). If it's a "suicide" hub you might find a BB lockring that is normal threaded as opposed to a proper track lockring - hence the nickname <suicide>.

First take out the lockring (it should have some 3-4-6-8 slots cut onto outside meant to go with different tools, or with hook tools, but a flat screwdriver and a hammer works equally well.

As for removing the sprocket itself there are various methods:
- scary method: ride it without lockring and do some skids be sure you have a front brake, and a rear brake would be advisable.
- crude method - sturdy screwdriver levered between teeth of the cog and cutaways in the flange of the hub -> be aware that it can damage the hub - i only do this on steel hubs (that are quite rare and old nowadays, crappy though, not some vintage pearl)
- chain whip - worth a try but don't put your hopes in it - usually it does not come out this easy even with a half meter lever and wheel propped to a wall/door frame to keep it - but if not ridden much and ridden with aggressive high speed gearing it may work.
- chain and vice method: grab to pieces of chain (or just a longer piece of chain), wrap it on the cog and cover two opposed teeth with chain and put it in a bench-vice and twist the wheel around with some small and forcefully tugs on the twist motions.
- poor man's way - this will ding the paint off your frame and may even damage the frame - remove the chain off the chainring, and loop it on itself on the bb shell so the chain is tight (still on the cog) - twist the wheel. The chain wil wrap tighter onto the bb shell and will put great pressure on the chainstay but it's an effective way as it's a great deal of torque amplification.

For either method be sure to know which way you need to remove it. The sprocket is normal threaded (right hand - righty-tighty, lefty-loosy), while a proper track lockring (smaller in diameter) will be left hand threaded (the exact opposite). Be sure it's not a kludge with suicide hub and a BB lockring fit on the hub (where it would be right hand threaded and the same diameter with the sproket thread 1.37")

Edit: after looking up a bit i think you meant a "surly fixxer"? that is held by the cones. Remove the axle and cones and should slide off quite easily. If it's stuck, a slidehammer hooked on opposing sides to a cog/lockring on the body will break it apart - just freehand it, hang the slide and give it a tug with the slide the wheel will fall (you might want to leave the axle in for this one but loosen the cones a few milimeters - for not dropping the wheel on floor)

The above mentioned is still necessary to remove the cog from the body in the first place

Scrodzilla

^ This guy is a engineer.

taJai

That's the one! That shiny threaded alloy thingy that the axle goes through decided it would very much like to stay in the hub. I am unfamiliar with a "slide hammer", although I remember seeing them in movies where people steal cars! Or is that a "dent puller"? Maybe it's the same thing. I could look into renting one from an auto parts store as they seem to have various hooking attachments available, but at that point I might just take it to a bike shop. I just don't want them to damage it. One thing is certain is that it won't come off by hand.

Thanks for the different methods on track cog removal though! I've only done it once and my knuckles still hurt.

wesmamyke

Doesn't the surly fixxer attach like a regular freehub body would, via a large hollow bolt? I would imagine it's the same 11 or 12mm allen wrench used for Shimano freehub bodies, after you remove the axle of course.

Edit: Directions from Surly: https://surlybikes.com/uploads/downloads/Fixxer.pdf

Apparently it's a 10mm allen wrench.

taJai

It is indeed. The hollow 10mm bolt is out. I cut myself on the threads trying to twist it off with my hand last night. I guess I'll just take it to the shop this weekend.

I found this thread though and had funny feelings in my pants for old school drop bar MTB bikes. Since I don't have a do everything, crappy weather, fendered bike I see this as a good opportunity to build one. Geared. Why did I take the damn thing apart in the first place?!

Ugh.

wesmamyke

Only thing I can think of is maybe loosely put the bolt back, just so things don't go flying. Reinstall a fixed cog and lockring, then try and rock the cog back and forth with a chainwhip to break it loose.

Then you would have to remove the cog and lockring before removing it from the hub. Never actually had to mess with one, maybe the two pieces both being aluminum have seized and corroded?

Scrodzilla

Or you could just contact Surly and they will tell you.

Asi

I forgot about the hollow bolt.. sometimes freehubs and fixxers like these are held only by the cones (not advisable though)
A slide hammers is something to hammer OUT. A 3jaw attachment is needed and hold it on the back side, or if the back is flush with the hub, loosely install the cog back and grab the cog with the 3jaw.


But first make note of wesmamyke's post above. As the two splined parts may be acting like a cam. - much like a hex nut that remains stuck in the socket key or allen bolt on to allen key.
But my first sense is that this type of spline can't cam easily and if it's only stuck axially the slide hammer can help.

taJai

Crap I thought I updated this.

The bike shop dude just wrapped a rag around the body of the Fixxer, put it in a bench vise and just wiggled it out using the rim for leverage. While this may seem obvious and it had crossed my mind, I don't own a vise. Anyway he was super cool and didn't charge me anything. Win.

Thanks for all the suggestions everybody! Now I can get this project going.