hey guys, just a update on my disc brake project. I'm learning a lot in the process of building this bike. First of I had to find adapteur for the caliper and and frame. From what I understand the adapteur will adapt your caliper to whatever rotor size you are using. I got the adapteur I needed for my 160mm rotor. Last night I really thought I can finish that project and do the maiden voyage this morninig. Well turns out that disc bike project is no different that other bike project... there's always something... The biggest problem is that the bolt that fix the adapteur for the front caliper to the fork is too long and goes throught the rotor, so wheel can't spin. That's a no go.http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=276297 I'm going back to the lbs to ask if he has shorter bolt. Another question do you always use lock-tite on bold for diskbrake.
2nd observation. When I looked at different disk mount for the rear caliper I realise that the mount on my frame was kinda different. (look at picture in previous post) much further back, what I saw most of the time the mount are close to the seatstays. When I mount the caliper and pass the cable and see the 'natural cable route', the first word that pops in my head is ...'ugly as can be' in the picture a draw in red what I call the natural cable route. In blue is somewhat I think can be done. What you thoughts about that. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=276302
3rd observation what are those cable braze on. Too big to hold the cable... if I need electric tape to hold it in place what's the point of those braze on? is not some kind of c-clip cable guide.

thanks for your helps.

David P P

Not sure I see much of a difference either, other than cost and repair factors. If a cable breaks, you replace it. If a hydraulic line breaks, you have a mess. The repair would also be a bit more complicated I'd suspect, as you have hydraulic fluid pressure to contend with, rather than simple cables. I'd also have to think you'd need to bleed the lines and such like a car.

In general, disc brakes rock! I don't want to ever go back to calipers. Disc brakes are just so much less worry and maintenance, and stop on a dime. I'm not saying calipers aren't good brakes, discs are just a lot better all around, especially for commuting with a lot of stop and go.

That brings up hubs. I have an 8 speed nexus with a belt drive, and absolutely love it. I would say the only thing better than an 8 speed hub would be a Rouloff 14 speed hub. It's also about $1400. Someday I'll have one though. For tooling around town at lights and in traffic and commuting, a hub is the way to go. If I had a Rouloff 14 speed with carbon drive on a good tough frame suited for light trails and the street with a good set of mechanical disc brakes, I probably wouldn't need anything else honestly.

Wow, that's easiest the ugliest dropout I've ever seen - but I think I can answer why. With a regular, seatstay mounted brake, the caliper is likely to interfere if you want to mount a rack or a fender. A more common way to get around that is to mount the brake on the chainstay instead - but that requires redesigning the rear triangle. An extra bend is needed a few inches in front of the dropout to widen the angle enough to make room for the caliper.
The makers of your frame has choosen a different route - keep the frame design(and any associated jigs and tooling) just use a "generously cut" dropout and stick the brake onto the rear. Functionally I can't see that it should matter.

The cable braze-ons probably looks that way to be compatible with hydraulic brakes as well. Hydros are usually sold with levers and calipers all hooked up, bled, and ready to go. Not many riders can be bothered to cut and adjust the brake lines, so braze-ons has to allow for that. And yes, a sleeve is used to make the hose stay in place. There are usually other braze-ons where you're expected to use zip ties to hold the hose in place.

To tidy up your installation you can try either a v-brake noodle, or a travel agent set only to act as a pulley wheel.

Hydros are stronger, no doubt. More braking for less finger force. They're also a tad smoother, a little better modulation. Functionally, mechanicals are perfectly adequate, byt hydros are "nicer".

You will want Mudguards next, their strut will give you another place to secure the cable run.

and maybe a rear rack to keep some stuff in ..

So white like that , don't lay it down in the snow, you may not find it again.. :rolleyes:


cable brakes, pad wear adjuster is You..

Hydraulics do some auto adjust, but, you have to stuff a 'keeper' in the caliper
so the first touch of the brake lever the pads don't fill the gap, preventing getting
the wheel back in.

And presently No drop bar hydraulic brake levers..

but you may want MTB bars to use Pogies to help keep your hands warmer anyhow..

I don't think I've ever heard about someone breaking a brake hose, but I guess it can happen. Maybe snagging a branch, or a bash against something hard in a crash.

Bleeding, sure, that may be required occasionally.
Mostly an issue if you try to improvise something as opposed to using a kit adapted for the purpose. With the gear, it's no big deal.

Pressures - I don't know.
So far, the industry has mostly used permanently crimped connectors, but now there seems to be a trend towards user-friendly, reusable connectors that can be opened and closed pretty much at a whim.
What little I have read about them has all been good.
In general, hydros are amazingly reliable. Some may require bleeding, but outright, serious failures are really, really rare.

I hear you dabac. The odds of anything going seriously wrong per say are somewhat remote, but the lines are under high pressure when breaking. Overtime, hydraulic systems tend to spring leaks and fail, and I'm curious myself just how well these systems will hold up over time. Hydraulics also tend to become messy animals, slowly dripping fluid onto the ground or machinery. Cables obviously come with their own share of problems, but, they're cheap, clean, and very simple to maintain.

I've heard hydraulics are much more responsive myself, and would agree, they should work better. But.... When I squeeze my mechanical disc levers they stop great, and with little effort. I don't think I'd ever really need to improve that for what I do honestly.

I think the primary difference between hydraulic and mechanical is more a function of your bank account. If you have plenty of money, go with the best of the best, because you'll never be disappointed. If you're more practical, and don't have money to burn, mechanical discs are an excellent choice as well. Either way, you won't be disappointed in disc brakes.

I'd look at trying something like this to eliminate the big loop you're going to have with your brake cable from that unusual disc mount.

Can't tell what sort of cable mount is on the frame from the photo.
Does it look similar to the following?

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...ble_Stop_1.JPG

dabac: My first plan was to have a rack and mudguard on my bike so it will somehow "camouflage" the cable. no biggie.
for the braze-on you are right we told me they are ment to be compatible with hydro cable. My caliper are mechanical so He's going to bring the sleeve or adapteur tomorrow I'll snap a picture to show to the crowd.
About the long bolt he just suggest me to cut and file it. This is what I would have done, but I always prefer to use to right stuff. He will get me a shorter one.

I ask the guy about lock-tite. Seems that every single bolt have blue or white lock-tite. The 6 bolt to fix the rotor has blue locktite + tightening plates. the bolt to fix the adapteur use white lock-tite and the bolt to fix the caliper to the adpateur have blue lock tite. When I ask him he told me to use clear nail polish. I totally can picture myselft sneaking in my wife's makeup stuff to fletch nail polish and blame my daughter about the disapearing nail polish.

cobba: not really it look something like this.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=276332

So, the braze on for the brake line. They will fit the hydraulic line just fine ,they are too big for a regular brake line. Go to your bike store, they should have a plastic adapter to snap into the braze on.

Great info. I don't do disks and thus hadn't a clue. But looks like someone starting to plan for a new bike and wants to go with disks would be wise to spec the frame for the "74mm Post Mount". Thanks for link.