105 Derailleur Adjustment Barrel Rusted & Broke Off
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105 Derailleur Adjustment Barrel Rusted & Broke Off
I am currently in the process of rebuilding a 1991 Trek 1400, but I have hit a bit of a snag. A previous owner must have left this out in the rain (or rode it in the rain, I suppose) because the derailleur adjustment barrel was rusted to the derailleur itself. I used PB blaster in an attempt to free it up, but that didn't work. Now I'm looking at this:
What is going to be my best option here? I'm guessing that I am going to have to drill the barrel out and re-tap the derailleur so that I can use a new barrel? If that's the best course of action, any input on what size tap I will need?
Thank you.
EDIT: Or perhaps I could drill it out and install one of these?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IRD-BARREL-A...item51a1c58748
What is going to be my best option here? I'm guessing that I am going to have to drill the barrel out and re-tap the derailleur so that I can use a new barrel? If that's the best course of action, any input on what size tap I will need?
Thank you.
EDIT: Or perhaps I could drill it out and install one of these?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/IRD-BARREL-A...item51a1c58748
Last edited by TomCat_Ford; 09-25-12 at 01:55 PM.
#2
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there be no need to drill this out . Give the PB blaster a chance to work in , It might take a day or two or even longer to break up the rust . hold what is left of the barrel with something like lockgrips pliers and try turning it . it shouldn't take much to get it out and replace it .
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Patience is a virtue, give the pb blaster time to work before you attempt to remove the seized remnants of this barrel.
If it has permanently bonded itself to the derailleur then the work gets more involved.
If it has permanently bonded itself to the derailleur then the work gets more involved.
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Okay, I will give it another day or so (I sprayed it last night).
I called a LBS and they have the barrel I need. I'm going to buy that when the tires I ordered from them come in later this week. I was kind of surprised that they had one in stock. Now I wait...
I called a LBS and they have the barrel I need. I'm going to buy that when the tires I ordered from them come in later this week. I was kind of surprised that they had one in stock. Now I wait...
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As suggested above give the PB Blaster time to work. Give the stub a few raps with a light hammer or a wrench occasionally to help work it into the rusted area. If you access to a Dremel or similar tool with a narrow wheel I'd suggest cutting a slot and using a screwdriver to remove the rusted piece. Work it out gradually and reverse the rotation after each quarter-turn or so to break up the rust and avoid jamming it again. A judicious application of heat may also be helpful but don't go overboard. Patience!
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If the blaster doesn't work and you can't get it out, all is not lost.
Get a stepped ferrule suited to your housing, partly drill out the top of the adjuster/RD to accept it with a tight fit, then use an inline adjuster. The key is that you want a good tight fit to the ferrule so the housing can be kept in line with the wire. If you can't fine a nice stepped ferrule, buy a new adjuster, drill out the old one and drop the adjuster in, either using a nut as a jack to adjust the trim, or an inline adjuster.
Get a stepped ferrule suited to your housing, partly drill out the top of the adjuster/RD to accept it with a tight fit, then use an inline adjuster. The key is that you want a good tight fit to the ferrule so the housing can be kept in line with the wire. If you can't fine a nice stepped ferrule, buy a new adjuster, drill out the old one and drop the adjuster in, either using a nut as a jack to adjust the trim, or an inline adjuster.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.