1983 super course clicking
 

My newly purchased 1983 Super course rides fine except there is a small "click" more noticable as a frame vib then an audible click when I pedal. In other words I can feel it more than I can hear it. No slippage from the drive train. Happens in all gears high to low. I totally cleaned the casssette chain and shifters hoping it was a grease problem or chain link that wasn't smoothly going over the gears. Click always happens at the same point as I pedal. Here is the weird thing, it doesn't always happen and often after riding several miles then stopping it doesn't happen once I start riding again. Weird huh? . Also changed pedals and its not there. Any ideas? would it be the bottom bracket? Thanks - Joe

Oh should have mentioned there is no play around either crank or the spindle without taking it apart

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html. If that page does not solve problem start substituting or take it to a shop - unless you just want to try all the random "it happen to me and it was this" ideas that will probably appear here.

Just a long shot but could it be the front derailleur shift wire tapping the crank? This could come and go depending on which front chainring you are using. Or a shoe lace?

Wish, but the click has a solid frame vib that seems to be coming from soemwhere deep. But thanks and I will check tomorrow to be sure.

I have a 1983 Super Course and it does the same exact thing. Generally it is more prominent later in the ride when I'm tired so I'm thinking it's in the bottom bracket and is affected by the timing of my stroke. I use toe clips, no straps... what kind of retention are you using? I've changed out cranks, pedals, and I'm thinking about changing out the ball & cup bottom bracket for a cartridge.

I am using toe clips with straps. I think it compliments the 1983 look of the bike. I would really like a set of those Bruce Gordon wire clips but I just cannot justify the "bucks" for those.
Should also have mentioned that it doesn't click any more than normal when the drivetrain is loaded up like going up hills. However there is no click when I just lightly spin the pedals like going downhill. Using a cartridge is what I am thinking of doing. Probably get started here in a month or so when the snow starts. I have no idea what cartridge would fit/work since I've never had one. Have you picked a cartridge? Please let me know when you decide, I'll copy your expertise :) Thanks and I'll get a picture of my bike up soon. I just replaced both hoods with gum ones and put on new white brake cables. Today I am heading to the local LBS to pick up new white bar tape. If I do a good job it will motivate me to take some pics. - Joe

What do you mean by "somewhere deep?" Is it truly a click - high pitched - or is it more of a clunk - lower pitched? I can't think of anything in a conventional bottom bracket assembly that would cause a click. Secondly, you said it always happens at the same point, but not where that point is, which may be helpful

You also have not said if you have tightened the crank arms or chainwheel bolts - one of the primary things mentioned on the Sheldon link I gave you. Again if you read that page you can always rule out the drive train when the click is in time with crank rotation, as the chain takes more than one revolution to pass over the same point in the chainring (108 links in chain, less than 50 teeth in chainring). There's no sense in overhauling for the click when you may not have ruled out other causes, and a straight overhaul of the BB rather than replacement may be the cure if the click is indeed in the BB, though I know slapping in a cartridge is theoretically easier.

Based on your initial description, I would suspect the BB. It is load dependent and at the same location in the stroke. If not the crank spindle interface, then I would suspect the BB with having a ball or race with damage. However, the later could be random depending on the rotational characteristics of the bearings.
I believe you can replace any ball and cup BB with a sealed bearing unit. The key is having the right threads for the BB shell. Don't forget to measure the spindle length and if it has offest.

I will just take mine to the LBS and tell them to put an affordable cartridge BB in.

As for bar tape, I just got some new tape- dark brown and black mottled color, to match my dark brown Brooks saddle. This is what it looks like with the old cork tape (which got torn up a bit in a recent fall); I haven't put the new tape on yet.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...49076165_n.jpg

That's the first suspect... enjoy the hunt.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=275906

Here is a shot of my baby. Looks remarkably simialar to yours right down to the brooks saddle. You have shifters on your bars and mine on the up tube. Last night I removed the front and rear brakes and shined them up removing all the surface rust with 000 steel wool then just this morning I put on new brake cables with white casing and the gum hoods. RIght after I took this photo I got on the bike and rode to the local LBS and got some white bar tape. When I got this SC it had the black foam sponge stuff on there now which is all torn up. I've also recently put on panera RT tires and they ride very nice. I have a friend who owns a vintage bike store here in Phila and I'm gonna ask her opinion on whether we should repack the current bb bearing or whether I should just get a newer sealed one.

IMO the go is to pull it down and decide then. If it's in good nick, just repack it.

If I'm feeling lazy I'll just adjust it, and if I can get it smooth (put an ear to the seat while you spin it with the chain off) I'll call it good.

...and I got it on tonight:

http://static.blipfotos.com/uploads/....44081412.jpeg