Full Miyata 610 rebuild
09-27-12, 10:08 AM
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Full Miyata 610 rebuild
I pulled my Miyata 610 (and the box of parts that go with it) out of the basement and dropped it all off at a shop in town. I had them strip off all the old parts and get it ready for a sandblast and powder coat. I found a 4 wheeler shop that can get the paint job done. Then, I need to rebuild it from the ground up. I want the frame, racks, forks and handlebars. most of the rest is trash. I still have my kirkland rear panniers and handle bar bag.
I want to try a 700c wheel at the shop and see if I can get a canti brake set up that will work, then I want a good set of wheels for under $350. I saw where someone had to streach out the back of the frame to accept the 700c 9sp hub. I better figure that out before I paint it.
then I have to select a group, seat, computer lights...
I'm looking at a brooks touring seat, a cateye cadence speedometer and a cateye rear light. I'm still trying to figure out a good head light system. I want a bright LED with store bought batteries. I can't recharge a light while camping.
my first hump is the wheels, paint and brakes (and yes a camera will be involved)
I am an OTR trucker on the week days and I'm building a baby room on the weekends, so I'm having a shop do all the time consuming stuff
I want to try a 700c wheel at the shop and see if I can get a canti brake set up that will work, then I want a good set of wheels for under $350. I saw where someone had to streach out the back of the frame to accept the 700c 9sp hub. I better figure that out before I paint it.
then I have to select a group, seat, computer lights...
I'm looking at a brooks touring seat, a cateye cadence speedometer and a cateye rear light. I'm still trying to figure out a good head light system. I want a bright LED with store bought batteries. I can't recharge a light while camping.
my first hump is the wheels, paint and brakes (and yes a camera will be involved)
I am an OTR trucker on the week days and I'm building a baby room on the weekends, so I'm having a shop do all the time consuming stuff
09-27-12, 11:30 AM
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I'd be surprised if the existing brakes weren't perfectly fine. New pads, and you should be good to go with either 700c or 27"- those Dia-compe cantis that Miyata used on the 610 had enough range for both. Finding replacements will be, frankly, a difficult endeavor.
Re: lights- A bottle generator doesn't require you to buy batteries, and are compatible with some of the new LED lights (Lumotech IQ Cyo comes to mind). Before powdercoating, have a generator tab brazed on, and you won't have to scratch your paint with the clamp and ground screw... Also a kickstand plate is nice for a touring bike; keeps you from crushing tubes with a kickstand.
Re: lights- A bottle generator doesn't require you to buy batteries, and are compatible with some of the new LED lights (Lumotech IQ Cyo comes to mind). Before powdercoating, have a generator tab brazed on, and you won't have to scratch your paint with the clamp and ground screw... Also a kickstand plate is nice for a touring bike; keeps you from crushing tubes with a kickstand.
09-27-12, 12:38 PM
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thx.
I WELL remember doing the last 10 miles to the campgrounds and kicking in a generator. I would sooner pack a motorcycle battery than go there again.
In the 80s, kick stands were not cool. It was an easy way to tell the hard core riders from the department store riders. I'm sticking to old school on that one.
My original brakes look pretty bad. I will be seeking alternatives. I want this baby show room clean.
I WELL remember doing the last 10 miles to the campgrounds and kicking in a generator. I would sooner pack a motorcycle battery than go there again.
In the 80s, kick stands were not cool. It was an easy way to tell the hard core riders from the department store riders. I'm sticking to old school on that one.
My original brakes look pretty bad. I will be seeking alternatives. I want this baby show room clean.
09-27-12, 03:04 PM
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I have a 84 Schwinn Le tour Luxe with Dia-Comp Cantis and for fun I put on my spare 700c wheels to see if would fit where the 27's were...not problem at all, didn't even have to adjust the brake pads. I did that once on a bike with sidepulls too, no problem except a minor adjustment of the pads.
09-27-12, 03:14 PM
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"In the 80s, kick stands were not cool."
If you prefer function to '80s style you could mount a kickstand on the rear, like this one: https://www.greenfieldny.com/chart_bi...htm#stabilizer You won't have to worry about crushing your chainstays with it or needing a plate brazed on.
If you prefer function to '80s style you could mount a kickstand on the rear, like this one: https://www.greenfieldny.com/chart_bi...htm#stabilizer You won't have to worry about crushing your chainstays with it or needing a plate brazed on.
09-27-12, 04:21 PM
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Good headlights? What's your total budget? Also you mentioned Cateye rear light, there are better ones on the market but again it depends on your budget, so give us a clue about that budget too.
I have a Phillips SafeRide light that uses 4 AA rechargeable bats, I'm sure non rechargeable would work just fine too. But this light is among the brightest on the market, not because of lumens but because of the way the light beam is focused like a car beam-flat instead of like a flashlight lighting up tops of trees you don't need to see.
Anyway here's a comparison sites for various lights that may help you make a intellegent decision. https://reviews.mtbr.com/2012-bike-lights-shootout Most of these use dedicated battery, the only one I know of for sure that could use regular bats is the Phillips SafeRide. If you want a more to be seen light then this site compares those that mostly use regular bats; see: https://www.ivanhoecycles.com.au/ligh...t/cat_259.html AND another with a few other brands: https://www.modernbike.com/light-comp...singleshotplus Neither of the sites show all the lights, but the last site shows the Princeton Tec Eos, a person could buy two of those and have semi decent lighting.
Another option you could look into is buying a solar powered battery recharger, then simply while camping during the day, or strap it onto the top of your rear rack you could be charging while riding:
https://www.amazon.com/Opteka-BP-SC40...ref=pd_sim_e_1 If you want the ability to recharge regular bats and have the USB plug for recharging those devices that use that port then there's this: https://www.amazon.com/AAA-Solar-Batt...ef=pd_sim_e_23
I have a Phillips SafeRide light that uses 4 AA rechargeable bats, I'm sure non rechargeable would work just fine too. But this light is among the brightest on the market, not because of lumens but because of the way the light beam is focused like a car beam-flat instead of like a flashlight lighting up tops of trees you don't need to see.
Anyway here's a comparison sites for various lights that may help you make a intellegent decision. https://reviews.mtbr.com/2012-bike-lights-shootout Most of these use dedicated battery, the only one I know of for sure that could use regular bats is the Phillips SafeRide. If you want a more to be seen light then this site compares those that mostly use regular bats; see: https://www.ivanhoecycles.com.au/ligh...t/cat_259.html AND another with a few other brands: https://www.modernbike.com/light-comp...singleshotplus Neither of the sites show all the lights, but the last site shows the Princeton Tec Eos, a person could buy two of those and have semi decent lighting.
Another option you could look into is buying a solar powered battery recharger, then simply while camping during the day, or strap it onto the top of your rear rack you could be charging while riding:
https://www.amazon.com/Opteka-BP-SC40...ref=pd_sim_e_1 If you want the ability to recharge regular bats and have the USB plug for recharging those devices that use that port then there's this: https://www.amazon.com/AAA-Solar-Batt...ef=pd_sim_e_23
09-27-12, 04:24 PM
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Yes, I was thinking more like the Esge 2-legged kickstand; lotsa tourers love them. It's a pain to have your bike fall over with all the bags and such, and it's not always easy to find somewhere convenient to lean it against. People like the Click-Stand, too.
Canti brakes: Tektro 992A's have been rumored to have enough length on the slot to handle 700c wheels on a Miyata 610- the problem is that the radial distance from the stud center to the rim center is pretty small on the Miyata. The studs are pretty close together, too- some rims may be too wide for them. Best not discard the original brakes; a little time on the buffing wheel will restore their classic shiny look.
Canti brakes: Tektro 992A's have been rumored to have enough length on the slot to handle 700c wheels on a Miyata 610- the problem is that the radial distance from the stud center to the rim center is pretty small on the Miyata. The studs are pretty close together, too- some rims may be too wide for them. Best not discard the original brakes; a little time on the buffing wheel will restore their classic shiny look.
09-27-12, 05:07 PM
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"I was thinking more like the Esge 2-legged kickstand"
Pletscher also makes a highly-regarded 2-legger
Pletscher also makes a highly-regarded 2-legger
09-27-12, 07:52 PM
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Yes, I was thinking more like the Esge 2-legged kickstand; lotsa tourers love them. It's a pain to have your bike fall over with all the bags and such, and it's not always easy to find somewhere convenient to lean it against. People like the Click-Stand, too.
Canti brakes: Tektro 992A's have been rumored to have enough length on the slot to handle 700c wheels on a Miyata 610- the problem is that the radial distance from the stud center to the rim center is pretty small on the Miyata. The studs are pretty close together, too- some rims may be too wide for them. Best not discard the original brakes; a little time on the buffing wheel will restore their classic shiny look.
Canti brakes: Tektro 992A's have been rumored to have enough length on the slot to handle 700c wheels on a Miyata 610- the problem is that the radial distance from the stud center to the rim center is pretty small on the Miyata. The studs are pretty close together, too- some rims may be too wide for them. Best not discard the original brakes; a little time on the buffing wheel will restore their classic shiny look.
09-27-12, 07:56 PM
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Canti brakes: Tektro 992A's have been rumored to have enough length on the slot to handle 700c wheels on a Miyata 610- the problem is that the radial distance from the stud center to the rim center is pretty small on the Miyata. The studs are pretty close together, too- some rims may be too wide for them. Best not discard the original brakes; a little time on the buffing wheel will restore their classic shiny look.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-MTB-...item564cda1bdf
09-27-12, 08:06 PM
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headlights:
I want a securely mounted waterproof setup that takes batteries. under $150 i guess.
one large or two lights
wheels. I want to keep that under $350 if possible. I was looking at the upgrade options on this:
https://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...s/prod_81.html
or maybe these:
(EDIT: I'm really leaning towards these)
https://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com.../prod_156.html
I'm 25 years behind the times. I laced my present wheels but I promised myself "never again".
anyone have wheel advice?
I want a securely mounted waterproof setup that takes batteries. under $150 i guess.
one large or two lights
wheels. I want to keep that under $350 if possible. I was looking at the upgrade options on this:
https://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...s/prod_81.html
or maybe these:
(EDIT: I'm really leaning towards these)
https://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com.../prod_156.html
I'm 25 years behind the times. I laced my present wheels but I promised myself "never again".
anyone have wheel advice?
Last edited by Pinkelephant64; 09-27-12 at 10:58 PM.
09-27-12, 10:47 PM
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somewhere around 83-84, I was on my first (of 2) touring bike and I was taking a trip I did often. (mishap at end of story)
From south west Houston down to galveston was 55 miles, then another 8 miles to the state park. 3/4th of that last 8 miles was on a 12 foot high sea wall. When a hurricane snuck up on Galveston (1903??) and killed 2000 people, they raised the town 12 feet, making everyones first floor into the basement. The sea wall has a side walk about 7-8 feet wide and then a smooth strip of concrete about 8 inches wide right on the edge.
I would usually ride on that smooth edge because it was smooth as glass and because people stayed away from it and there was less traffic..
I would leave home on a Sat morning (on weekends with a bright moon) and set up camp and go straight to bed. I would then wake up in the middle of the night and have the park and beach all to myself with a full moon to see by.
The sand a few feet from the water that is wet and shiny is like solid concrete when riding bicycle on it. you can get to full speed riding there. I spend half my time just cruising on the shore. I spent the other half sipping vodka out of my 3rd water bottle. I then go back to bed and head home by sundown the next day.
OK, that is the context of my most common bike "tour".
One time, I was on a back road before the galveston bridge and I got a flat. No problem. I pull out the tube, ruff up the hole, open the rubber cement.... the cement is rock solid and I'm 10 miles from the nearest gas station in the rain. I stash the bike in the brush, put the tube over my shoulder and hike to the highway. I thumb a ride to a gas station and apply the glue but I forgot the patch. I thumb another ride back and apply the patch. all good and I'm back to touring.
Now the event that I started typing all this for...
I leave home on my first touring bike (this is a major reason there had to be a second bike).
I have an amazingly fast 55 mile ride to the sea wall because of a strong tail wind.
I park the bike and lean it on a street sign on the side walk. I walk down the steep stairs to the car sized rocks 12 feet down. I hear a seriously strong gust of wind and I look up at my bike. It all happened in slow motion. the bike slowly tilted over and flipped right off the top of the wall. The wave went away and the bike SMASHED on the rocks upside down smashing the speedometer, bending the handlebars, breaking the rear rack, dumping the handlebar bag. it falls over sideways and lands. then the wave comes back and buries everything in salt water.
I drug everything I could find to the top of the wall and rung out as much of the water as I could. I take an incredibly heavy 8 mile ride to the park and hang everything up to dry. My mom was out with a friend and just happened to stop in and see me 3-4 hours later. I pack everything I didn't absolutely need in her trunk and suffered thru it. It's fun when everything goes right, but when everything goes wrong, it makes you feel really good to make it work anyway. I limped home (with a strong head wind this time) with bent handlebars because I didn't want to give up and ride home with mommy. the worst part was the wet sleeping bag.
From south west Houston down to galveston was 55 miles, then another 8 miles to the state park. 3/4th of that last 8 miles was on a 12 foot high sea wall. When a hurricane snuck up on Galveston (1903??) and killed 2000 people, they raised the town 12 feet, making everyones first floor into the basement. The sea wall has a side walk about 7-8 feet wide and then a smooth strip of concrete about 8 inches wide right on the edge.
I would usually ride on that smooth edge because it was smooth as glass and because people stayed away from it and there was less traffic..
I would leave home on a Sat morning (on weekends with a bright moon) and set up camp and go straight to bed. I would then wake up in the middle of the night and have the park and beach all to myself with a full moon to see by.
The sand a few feet from the water that is wet and shiny is like solid concrete when riding bicycle on it. you can get to full speed riding there. I spend half my time just cruising on the shore. I spent the other half sipping vodka out of my 3rd water bottle. I then go back to bed and head home by sundown the next day.
OK, that is the context of my most common bike "tour".
One time, I was on a back road before the galveston bridge and I got a flat. No problem. I pull out the tube, ruff up the hole, open the rubber cement.... the cement is rock solid and I'm 10 miles from the nearest gas station in the rain. I stash the bike in the brush, put the tube over my shoulder and hike to the highway. I thumb a ride to a gas station and apply the glue but I forgot the patch. I thumb another ride back and apply the patch. all good and I'm back to touring.
Now the event that I started typing all this for...
I leave home on my first touring bike (this is a major reason there had to be a second bike).
I have an amazingly fast 55 mile ride to the sea wall because of a strong tail wind.
I park the bike and lean it on a street sign on the side walk. I walk down the steep stairs to the car sized rocks 12 feet down. I hear a seriously strong gust of wind and I look up at my bike. It all happened in slow motion. the bike slowly tilted over and flipped right off the top of the wall. The wave went away and the bike SMASHED on the rocks upside down smashing the speedometer, bending the handlebars, breaking the rear rack, dumping the handlebar bag. it falls over sideways and lands. then the wave comes back and buries everything in salt water.
I drug everything I could find to the top of the wall and rung out as much of the water as I could. I take an incredibly heavy 8 mile ride to the park and hang everything up to dry. My mom was out with a friend and just happened to stop in and see me 3-4 hours later. I pack everything I didn't absolutely need in her trunk and suffered thru it. It's fun when everything goes right, but when everything goes wrong, it makes you feel really good to make it work anyway. I limped home (with a strong head wind this time) with bent handlebars because I didn't want to give up and ride home with mommy. the worst part was the wet sleeping bag.
09-28-12, 08:08 AM
#13
The Left Coast, USA
I use the Cateye el-500 series, I guess the new ones are EL-540 or something like that. They are hardly the brightest or lightest, but they work well and 4AA batteries last a long time. What's nice is they do a quick tab disconnect and you can carry them like a regular flashlght, that comes in very handy. And they are relatively cheap, like in the $50 range. I use them in pairs. I've done 8 hour night rides with them, no issues.
09-28-12, 09:03 AM
#14
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the phillips saferide is 4000 candle power and runs about $150
the cateye el520 and 530 run about $30 on ebay and have 1500 candle power.
EDIT: I'm going with the phillips saferide
the cateye el520 and 530 run about $30 on ebay and have 1500 candle power.
EDIT: I'm going with the phillips saferide
Last edited by Pinkelephant64; 09-28-12 at 07:49 PM.
09-29-12, 12:24 PM
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pasted from my wheel thread
Well I had a moment of insanity at the bike shop.
I showed him the link above and he had a better plan. He quoted a $460 set of wheels and then went about selling me on the idea. I decided to go for it. I ordered the rear wheel today for $275
All silver parts:
A velo orange 130mm hub:
https://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...aring-hub.html
DT swiss 14ga spokes
3x lacing on rear and 2x lacing on front
DT brass nipples
Velocity Dyad 700c Rim:
https://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup....FWaoPAodGlUAzg
I will paste this on the original thread and continue build over there. thx
I showed him the link above and he had a better plan. He quoted a $460 set of wheels and then went about selling me on the idea. I decided to go for it. I ordered the rear wheel today for $275
All silver parts:
A velo orange 130mm hub:
https://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...aring-hub.html
DT swiss 14ga spokes
3x lacing on rear and 2x lacing on front
DT brass nipples
Velocity Dyad 700c Rim:
https://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup....FWaoPAodGlUAzg
I will paste this on the original thread and continue build over there. thx
09-29-12, 01:00 PM
#16
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I dropped the frame and forks off at the 4 wheeler shop to get sandblasted and powder coated.
I selected a metalic blue but I asked for a quote. If the price is too high, I selected a regular blue of about the same shade.
That logo on my pics with the big "M" on it is not available online.
I will get the stock stickers online:
ttp://www.velocals.com/servlet/the-246/Miyata-Cr-dsh-Mo-and-1024/Detail
https://www.velocals.com/servlet/the-...e-frame/Detail
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-MIYATA-...item20cb7fee03
I also want to visit a local vinyl shop for some custom lettering. I can't find the cursive lettering for the 610. I will get that and using the same font, I will get my name and the bike's name (Roxanne)
That's about all the progress this project will have until the paint and the front wheel are paid for.
EDIT: I found and bought some vintage dia-comp brakes (almost the same as the original dia-comps):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/370656549855
I selected a metalic blue but I asked for a quote. If the price is too high, I selected a regular blue of about the same shade.
That logo on my pics with the big "M" on it is not available online.
I will get the stock stickers online:
ttp://www.velocals.com/servlet/the-246/Miyata-Cr-dsh-Mo-and-1024/Detail
https://www.velocals.com/servlet/the-...e-frame/Detail
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-MIYATA-...item20cb7fee03
I also want to visit a local vinyl shop for some custom lettering. I can't find the cursive lettering for the 610. I will get that and using the same font, I will get my name and the bike's name (Roxanne)
That's about all the progress this project will have until the paint and the front wheel are paid for.
EDIT: I found and bought some vintage dia-comp brakes (almost the same as the original dia-comps):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/370656549855
Last edited by Pinkelephant64; 09-29-12 at 06:56 PM.
09-30-12, 10:45 AM
#17
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Here is my current lighting and power plans.
Phillips saferide headlight:
4000 candle power with 4 rechargeable AA nimh batts and a charge port. if I run out of power, I can put store bought batts in it.
https://www.ebikestop.com/philips_saf...FcxcMgodZWQAFw
cateye rapid 5 tail light (2 AAA batts):
https://www.ebikestop.com/cateye_tl_l...led-LT1006.php
joos solar charger:
https://www.rei.com/product/837625/jo...-solar-charger
Goal Zero Guide 10 Plus Battery Pack:
this can USB charge nimh batts from a solar panel or USB port and it can also USB charge other items from it's USB
https://www.rei.com/product/827120/go...s-battery-pack
I'm still thinking about side visability. I am considering cutting up some DOT reflective tape and sticking 1"x4" strips on open areas of the frame. that stuff is bright when a light is shined on it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DOT-C2-Consp...-/120904247857
Phillips saferide headlight:
4000 candle power with 4 rechargeable AA nimh batts and a charge port. if I run out of power, I can put store bought batts in it.
https://www.ebikestop.com/philips_saf...FcxcMgodZWQAFw
cateye rapid 5 tail light (2 AAA batts):
https://www.ebikestop.com/cateye_tl_l...led-LT1006.php
joos solar charger:
https://www.rei.com/product/837625/jo...-solar-charger
Goal Zero Guide 10 Plus Battery Pack:
this can USB charge nimh batts from a solar panel or USB port and it can also USB charge other items from it's USB
https://www.rei.com/product/827120/go...s-battery-pack
I'm still thinking about side visability. I am considering cutting up some DOT reflective tape and sticking 1"x4" strips on open areas of the frame. that stuff is bright when a light is shined on it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DOT-C2-Consp...-/120904247857
09-30-12, 12:19 PM
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There are tires with reflective sidewalls.
Lights on your helmet, up high and moving around, are more visible than the same light on your bike, down low and relatively static.
As for lights, used to be a high power bike light cost $200-300. Now you can get generic lights that are $60 and get good reviews. E.g. https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...mp-759177.html
Search CREE XML T6 on Amazon or other shopping site.
I have one of these on order to compare with my old Nightsun dual beam halogen light and my newer NiteRider LED light. I hope it is good - I could equip the whole family fleet.
Lights on your helmet, up high and moving around, are more visible than the same light on your bike, down low and relatively static.
As for lights, used to be a high power bike light cost $200-300. Now you can get generic lights that are $60 and get good reviews. E.g. https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...mp-759177.html
Search CREE XML T6 on Amazon or other shopping site.
I have one of these on order to compare with my old Nightsun dual beam halogen light and my newer NiteRider LED light. I hope it is good - I could equip the whole family fleet.
09-30-12, 12:32 PM
#19
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
09-30-12, 01:17 PM
#20
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I am really enjoying all this input. thx guys.
I like that light on the review but I need a light that recharges and can run on store bought batts. I have great night vision and if I can see where I'm going, I'm not too worried about things sneaking up in the dark beside me. If it is something to worry about, it will have it's own lights
My existing brakes have heavy rust on the bolts but I ordered a similar dia comp set of brakes that I think are better than the originals. I will buff up the stem and seat post and see what I have but I will do a full replacement on the crank.
I noticed nobody straps thier feet to the pedals these days. I need to do my homework on current pedal tech before too long
I like that light on the review but I need a light that recharges and can run on store bought batts. I have great night vision and if I can see where I'm going, I'm not too worried about things sneaking up in the dark beside me. If it is something to worry about, it will have it's own lights
My existing brakes have heavy rust on the bolts but I ordered a similar dia comp set of brakes that I think are better than the originals. I will buff up the stem and seat post and see what I have but I will do a full replacement on the crank.
I noticed nobody straps thier feet to the pedals these days. I need to do my homework on current pedal tech before too long
09-30-12, 01:45 PM
#21
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Unless you have a polishing gear, of course.
__________________
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
09-30-12, 02:06 PM
#22
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I only have a monster buffer for semi rims. I can't picture it helping me here. I have some cutting agent polish in the basement I can scrub into it and see what happens
09-30-12, 04:55 PM
#23
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I found some heavy duty, puncture resistant touring tires with reflective side walls
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...plus-tire-700c
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...plus-tire-700c
09-30-12, 05:37 PM
#24
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That's pretty wide. May not fit in your frame, anyway may be fatter than you want. Normal road bike tire is in the 23 mm to 28 mm range.