An alternative way to remove a crank arm?
#1
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An alternative way to remove a crank arm?
Hello,
It seems I'm not having much luck with updating my bike... I noticed last night that a part of the thread to the left crank arm is trashed and consequently I can't screw in the crank removal tool... Is there another way of removing a crank arm?
Thanks,
Uplah
It seems I'm not having much luck with updating my bike... I noticed last night that a part of the thread to the left crank arm is trashed and consequently I can't screw in the crank removal tool... Is there another way of removing a crank arm?
Thanks,
Uplah
#2
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Are you willing to sacrifice the crank?
#3
Banned
Delegate the problem to a Bike shop and let them do the work..
they will have a lot more tools and practice at this.
Have an automotive fan belt pulley remover?
they will have a lot more tools and practice at this.
Have an automotive fan belt pulley remover?
#4
Mechanic/Tourist
From FBinNY, multiple previous posts:
It's childlishly easy to remove a crank with a stripped puller thread.
There's the free way that works about half the time. Replace the spindle bolt, but leave it backed off about 1mm. Ride the bike up a steep embankment in a high gear so you really have to stand on the pedal. If you hear a "crack" the crank has popped free, so stop riding immediately, and you're good to go after walking back to the shop.
Or for a few bucks at a good commercial hardware store you can buy a pair of Jacobs Chuck removal wedges. (see picture) These are thin pieces with shallow tapers, and tapping the pair in from both sides will push a crank off while remaining parallel. Many shops have these, and will do the job for a nominal fee.
BTW- Chuck wedges work so well, that there's no reason not to continue using the crank arm.
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fb
It's childlishly easy to remove a crank with a stripped puller thread.
There's the free way that works about half the time. Replace the spindle bolt, but leave it backed off about 1mm. Ride the bike up a steep embankment in a high gear so you really have to stand on the pedal. If you hear a "crack" the crank has popped free, so stop riding immediately, and you're good to go after walking back to the shop.
Or for a few bucks at a good commercial hardware store you can buy a pair of Jacobs Chuck removal wedges. (see picture) These are thin pieces with shallow tapers, and tapping the pair in from both sides will push a crank off while remaining parallel. Many shops have these, and will do the job for a nominal fee.
BTW- Chuck wedges work so well, that there's no reason not to continue using the crank arm.
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fb
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#6
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From FBinNY, multiple previous posts:
It's childlishly easy to remove a crank with a stripped puller thread.
There's the free way that works about half the time. Replace the spindle bolt, but leave it backed off about 1mm. Ride the bike up a steep embankment in a high gear so you really have to stand on the pedal. If you hear a "crack" the crank has popped free, so stop riding immediately, and you're good to go after walking back to the shop.
Or for a few bucks at a good commercial hardware store you can buy a pair of Jacobs Chuck removal wedges. (see picture) These are thin pieces with shallow tapers, and tapping the pair in from both sides will push a crank off while remaining parallel. Many shops have these, and will do the job for a nominal fee.
BTW- Chuck wedges work so well, that there's no reason not to continue using the crank arm.
__________________
fb
It's childlishly easy to remove a crank with a stripped puller thread.
There's the free way that works about half the time. Replace the spindle bolt, but leave it backed off about 1mm. Ride the bike up a steep embankment in a high gear so you really have to stand on the pedal. If you hear a "crack" the crank has popped free, so stop riding immediately, and you're good to go after walking back to the shop.
Or for a few bucks at a good commercial hardware store you can buy a pair of Jacobs Chuck removal wedges. (see picture) These are thin pieces with shallow tapers, and tapping the pair in from both sides will push a crank off while remaining parallel. Many shops have these, and will do the job for a nominal fee.
BTW- Chuck wedges work so well, that there's no reason not to continue using the crank arm.
__________________
fb
I am kinda trying the first suggestions, however my chainset and chain are in poor shape (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ip-due-to-wear)...
Uplah
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