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Cottered BBB Problem, Thump in left peddle '73 Raleigh DL-1

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Cottered BBB Problem, Thump in left peddle '73 Raleigh DL-1

Old 10-04-12, 04:24 PM
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guitarpah
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Cottered BB Problem, Thump in left peddle '73 Raleigh DL-1

I'm having a problem with my DL-1. When I got it, it had a light thump feeling in the left peddle when peddling. It happens when the crank arm was all the way back (occasionally when it all the way in the front too), mostly when accelerating or on a hill. It has come and gone, but I assumed it was a bent peddle. I changed the peddles and tried a different crank arm, but it is still there, sometimes a lot, sometimes not at all. The crank is really close to the bottom bracket cup on that side (left, non-drive) and their seems to be rubbing on occasion. When I got it, I had a LBS rebuild the bottom bracket, but I don't know anything about the bike store or their competency. This is driving me nuts, any help would be greatly appreciated! I'm getting ready to put some money into this bike but I don't want to until I figure this out. I'd like to at least have a theory before I take it to the LBS.
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Old 10-04-12, 04:28 PM
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fietsbob 
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Cotter is wedge shaped , soft steel , the pressing it out with the proper tool allows its
potential reuse.
banging it out on the Nut end deforms it, and then getting a new one is probably required.
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Old 10-04-12, 04:30 PM
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Sounds like someone removed the crank at some point, and then didn't re-install the cotter pin that holds the crank on hard enough, and it's worked loose and been damaged by the spindle. Could you post a picture of the cotter pin? Specifically, the flat part.
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Old 10-04-12, 04:54 PM
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Well I'll be a SOB. What caused the metal to warp, Over tightening? and How can I avoid it in the future? Should i look for NOS Cotter pins?
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Old 10-04-12, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by guitarpah View Post
Well I'll be a SOB. What caused the metal to warp, Over tightening? and How can I avoid it in the future? Should i look for NOS Cotter pins?
Just the opposite. As noted above the pins are soft so as to conform better to the crank slot. they have to be driven home first, then the nut is tightened just to hold them in place. It's a good idea to recheck them occasionally. If allowed to loosen the crank "clunks" as the edge of the slot hits the cotter pin, eventually creating a ridge or even a v shape in the pin.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html will give you all the info you need on removal and replacement.
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Old 10-04-12, 05:31 PM
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You folks are the best, I was sure it was something with my spindle.
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Old 10-04-12, 06:15 PM
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maybe they used the only one they could find..
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