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Options for a new rear wheel - Fuji S12-S

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Options for a new rear wheel - Fuji S12-S

Old 10-24-12, 03:12 PM
  #1  
SteamDonkey74
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Options for a new rear wheel - Fuji S12-S

I am converting to 700C from the original 27 inch wheels on my Fuji S12-S. I have already decided to do that, done some of the basic research, checked the brake reach, etc., etc. The front one has already been swapped out with a Shimano dynamo hub wheel to power a headlight, built using a black Alex rim. I CL'd some Ritchey SpeedMax tires (the ones that get put on new Cross Checks) and threw one on the front. Knowing it was a long shot, I tried putting the other on the existing rear wheel, and it was a no go, so I determined that I am going to change out the rear wheel.

The components I have that would make a difference on what I do:
Suntour VX(I think I have the right Suntour) rear derailleur (stock - works great - not interested in changing it out at this time)
12-speed configuration with 6-speed thread-on freewheel (stock - works great - gear ratios are just fine - robust)
Suntour 2x6 bar-end shifters (not stock - work great - not interested in changing them out at this time)
126mm Maillard hub rear wheel (hub is fine - have considered reusing it)

So, as I see it, my options for doing this without re-doing the whole drive train are:

1) Get a machine-spun 700C wheel with a screw on freewheel for 5/6/7 speeds and use it, even though all the options are silver and not black rimmed wheels. I suppose I could always mask off the spokes and rattle can a black rim out of it.

2) Remove freewheel, clip out hub, and build up my own wheel based on that hub. This will be a learning process as I have never done this before.

3) Buy a new hub and build up my own 700C wheel. This will be, as I mentioned in 2, a learning process for me. This has the advantage of saving the 27 in wheels in case I decide to put them back on the bike at some future date.


I am also considering the possibility that maybe I should do what Uncle Sheldon recommends and leave behind the freewheel, "upgrading" to a cassette hub. If I do that, I am not terribly likely to find a six speed cassette hub, so what if I used a 7 speed cassette? Would I be able to shift given the components I have, and would there be a chance I could splay out the stays far enough to take it? My questions on the cassette option focus on whether this is possible without swapping out tons of my drive train. I am not interested in going full on 8/9/10 speed cassette.

Of the options above, I am leaning toward option 3 in the keep the freewheel options, but I am certainly open to considering other ideas.



Thanks in advance for your help.


Adam
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Old 10-24-12, 03:29 PM
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One other question. Does anyone have any idea what the stock threading would be for a freewheel on the 1980 Fuji S12-S?

https://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html
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Old 10-24-12, 03:35 PM
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Fitting a 700c tyre to a 27" rim is more than a long shot, it will never work.

A 7-speed cassette hub shouldn't be too hard to find on eBay, and you probably won't even need to spread the frame - you can just force the wheel in if it's slightly too wide. If you do decide to spread the frame, it's not hard to do. It'll be a 130mm hub at most, if you get a road one, so 2mm either side, which is minimal.

If your right-hand shifter is friction rather than indexed, or has a friction setting, you can just re-adjust the derailleur for the new 7-speed cassette. If not, you may run into trouble, and you'll probably need a Shimano rear derailleur and shifter.

Edit: Just seen your other post, the freewheel is most likely an ISO thread, .
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Old 10-24-12, 04:19 PM
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I have friction shifting and having used both friction and indexed I am actually just fine with that. So you are saying that a six speed shifter (Suntour bar-end) and Suntour VX derailleur ought to have enough friction coverage for a 7 speed cassette.

It just occurred to me that my other bike has a 7 speed cassette rear wheel. It's a 26", so the wrong size totally, but for the purposes of checking things out it may work just fine.
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Old 10-24-12, 04:56 PM
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It should easily have enough throw, obviously you'll need to adjust the limit screws though. It can't hurt to check with another wheel if you have one that fits though.
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Old 10-25-12, 10:25 AM
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We found a set of 700 wheels on C-list, $40 for alloy rims, Coda Hubs with a 9 speed cassette. Slipped it right in to my son's 86 Team Fuji (just a little pull with the thumbs and the frame flexes that much) adjust the brakes, NEW CHAIN, reset the Suntour RD (friction of course) and it works PERFECTLY.
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Old 10-25-12, 10:30 AM
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Thanks for the info, folks. It's good to know that this will likely work.

So, I have read Uncle Sheldon's bit on why one should really consider ditching a freewheel setup and going with a cassette setup, but I am not sure I get the thing about the axle. Does anyone have any insight for me on why the axle is more vulnerable in a freewheel setup?
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Old 10-25-12, 10:35 AM
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Because there is a long unsupported length of axle between the drive-side bearings and the driveside locknut in a freewheel hub. Tis long unsupported length of axle is a big lever that often results in the axle bending near the driveside bearings. Freehubs have the driveside bearings much closer to the locknut, and so there is a much shorter length of unsupported axle.

5 and 6 speed hubs were less susceptible to bent axles because the unsupportred length of axle required under the narrower freewheels was not as great. 7 and 8 speed freewheels require a very long length of unsupported axle.
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Old 10-25-12, 11:36 AM
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Used 7-speed cassette wheels pop up here and on eBay/CL often -- I would just pick one up and keep your 27" wheel whole in case you want to use it again someday. As you mentioned, it's doing the job just fine, apart from not allowing big enough tires into the frame.

Building your own from new parts can be a great experience, too. In that case, you would be looking at building a 130mm 8/9/10-speed wheel unless you are interested in gathering up used/NOS 7-speed hub parts. (I would, but most have more sense than that. )

...

Oh, another thought -- there are knobby options for 27" tires. Maybe the Kenda K161 or Schwalbe HS159 has enough tread for your needs? https://www.biketiresdirect.com/search/27in-road-tires
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Old 10-26-12, 03:30 PM
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I have looked around at both 6 speed freewheel and 7 speed cassette options and I am confident I can come up with something. After my next payday I am going to go see about getting a wheel and then pick a cassette or freewheel to go with it. I want something with a large-ish range, right on up to a 30something. I have seen that there are such options no matter which way I go.

I have another question related to changing wheels. I can use my current brakes with the new wheel size, but those brakes are the original center-pivot calipers and they were so-so in 1980 and are bottom-of-the-barrel in 2012. I would like to get some Tektros. I measured the brake reach and it comes out to right about 55mm. Would folks here recommend I get the calipers intended for 47-57mm (Tektro R539) or those intended for 55-73 mm (Tektro R559). Most important to me is brake function and serviceability. A secondary concerns would be ability to fit fenders. I don't think reach will have any bearing on the second, but may on the first.

Thanks,
Adam
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Old 10-26-12, 03:38 PM
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You have more bike shops in Portland than anywhere on the planet , for a city.

go look around.

consider swapping over to an Internally geared hub, in back .
then you wont have derailleur problems, it goes too..

Last edited by fietsbob; 10-26-12 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 10-26-12, 04:07 PM
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Yes, I know that I have a lot of bike shops, but I also know that when you walk into half of them some guy wants you to just buy a new bike. I like to go in with some idea of what is feasible so that I don't get backed into doing something less than optimal by a bike shop guy with his own biases. Here I can get some expertise that is not conflicted from the outset. I then take that knowledge to the LBS of choice (I have many to choose from) and then I can get a better outcome than just walking in bright-eyed and clueless.

I have thought about an IGH, too. Currently, I am thinking about putting one of those on the next road bike I find that has a good frame but trashed components.
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