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just converted a mid 90's Shimano LX cassete hub (non disc). IT was laced to a beautiful new halo combat dual rim!

WEAR GLOVES, COMBAT CHEMICALS ENTRANCE INTO BODY!

STEP ONE: Unthread a lockring with a 17mm socket or wrench.

STEP TWO: Take it up to the shop. Have the tech check the new axles threads with the lockring you have. This assures you have the right thread and thickness axle, also, get a long one to fit outside the dropouts of your front/rear wheel. If in doubt, go extra long. Get a solid axle, from now on, a qr skewer won't go through the wheel.

STEP THREE: Buy the axle, washers, nuts, and make sure to have grease, a cassete lockring remover, chainwhip, two 17mm wrenches. (BE sure your cassette lockring remover is a deepwell socket to fit over your new (solid) axle later, i.e. NO GUIDE PIN)

STEP FOUR: Remove cog and spacers from cassette. Keep these in order to maintain chainline.(use a chainwhip and remover)

(DO the next step over a towel, or bearings bounce all over.

STEP FIVE: Remove seal/dust cap. Loosen lockring, remove cone and washers.

STEP SIX: Pull the axle out from the drive side. (Removing the cassette lockring shows it's importance now) Remove your cone, seal, washer, and lockring (keep these in order)

STEP SEVEN: Take bearings out, keep track of them. Clean the hub, re-pack with fresh axle grease.

STEP EIGHT: Place drive side lockring and cone assembly on new (solid) axle. I put mine on 19 threads deep, counting from the lockring out to the closest end. This depth adjustment varies depending on the amount of axle that should stick out of the dropouts. It should be equal on both sides.

STEP NINE: Place one half of the clean, dry bearings in the drive side cup (smush into grease). Place the other half into the grease in the non-drive cup.

STEP TEN: Slide the new axle in from the drive side through. Thread on the non-drive cone, seal, washers and lockring. Make sure you get the order right.

(optional)STEP ELEVEN: If it doesn't look like the axle is equally protruding from both locknuts, reverse to STEP EIGHT, try again.

STEP TWELVE: Now that the new wide, solid axle is centered, adjust the hub, don't pit your cups. This will require your cone wrench, and a 17mm wrench.

STEP THIRTEEN: Replace cog and spacers, you won't need a chainwhip, just the cassete lockring remover, tightening clockwise.

STEP FOURTEEN: Put the axle in the dropouts, put on your washers and nuts. Use the 17mm wrenches both at one time for best results in tightening.

STEP FIFTEEN: RIDE HARD AND CONFIDENT, NO SLIPPY QR's, STIFFER, STRONGER, BETTER. unfortunately, flat fixing is like a monkey trying to f**k a football, then again, I usually walk home, a backpack full of pump, food, water, patches and tools is too heavy.

BRAG ABOUT HOW IT IS STRONGER, OFFERS BETTER PERFORMANCE, IS CHEAPER THAN A Ti QR, AND IS MAYBE A BIT LIGHTER, MAYBE

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