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Old 01-14-13, 12:31 PM   #1
Andy Somnifac
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Bearing removal - Mavic Ksyrium Elite rear hub

I'm looking to overhaul my rear hub. It's developed quite a shriek at higher speeds (typically in the 28+ mph range) and it's awful. This is the 2nd wheel this has happened to, with the first being sent into Mavic and having them redo it for $80. They replaced the bearings and all was good, but if this is doable myself, I'll give it a go.

I've sourced bearings, but having pulled the freehub off to get to the cartridge bearings. What's the most effective way to remove them? Once they are out, I figure I can fashion a reasonable bearing press from a couple appropriately sized washers, a couple nuts and some threaded rod.

Thanks.
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Old 01-14-13, 01:06 PM   #2
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Our experience with that problem is that replacing the freehub body solves it. The freehub bodies are available through Mavic dealers.
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Old 01-14-13, 01:11 PM   #3
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That would certainly be even easier.
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Old 01-14-13, 01:28 PM   #4
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I've only dealt with it a couple of times, but that shriek I think you're talking about is a crazy noise. I remember calling Mavic's tech dept and they were clearly very familiar with the phenomenom and sent us a freehub body, which solved it.
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Old 01-14-13, 01:57 PM   #5
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I should be able to dig something up. I'll try the freehub first then. Thanks.
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Old 01-14-13, 03:57 PM   #6
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We've had a few mavic wheels with what you call 'the shriek". Our understanding is that the plastic bushing on the freehub is worn and/or dry of lube. We've lubed with minerial oil for at least short term fix. Some are worn enough so the noise returns and for those we've replaced the FH body. Andy.
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Old 01-14-13, 04:07 PM   #7
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I see rebuild kits on eBay that contain a new bearing, bushing, and seals. Example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330853575296

Think these are worth a damn?
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Old 01-14-13, 04:39 PM   #8
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I don't know. If it were me I'd get a new Mavic freehub body, but that kit certainly appears to be designed to address your problem and the seller is legit.
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Old 01-14-13, 04:41 PM   #9
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Looks worth a try. If it doesn't work out, then I guess a new freehub will be in my future.
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Old 01-14-13, 04:43 PM   #10
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Looks worth a try.
For $16, you're probably right. Good luck....if you don't mind, let us know how it works out.
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Old 01-15-13, 07:00 AM   #11
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Will do. Ordered a kit, and will report back with the results.
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Old 01-17-13, 04:08 PM   #12
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Kit came in today and it seems to have everything. Instructions that come with it seem to be pretty good too.

Hope to get it installed tonight.
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Old 01-17-13, 04:15 PM   #13
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The bearings in Mavic hubs typically last much longer than the bearings in other hubs. It's the freehub bushing which causes problems. It needs to be cleaned and lubed regularly. If the freehub body has play when the hub is assembled, the bushing needs replacing. If there is not much play, it should just be cleaned and lubed. I used Phil Tenacious oil on the pawls and light grease on the bushing. Mavic doesn't sell the bushing separately, they sell the whole freehub which is a waste of money and material. The bushings can be sourced aftermarket on eBay. We have a local supplier of the bushings here in Australia which we use. You can also get oversized bushings if the aluminium bushing run in the hubshell has been worn down.

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Old 01-18-13, 09:26 AM   #14
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Installed the bushing last night. Installation was easy enough. Left the bearing be, as I could feel no play in it. Reassembled everything, and there's no play that I can feel once the cassette is installed. Hope to give it a ride this weekend to see if the howl is gone.
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Old 01-18-13, 11:57 AM   #15
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+1 on the bushing.
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Old 01-18-13, 11:57 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Andy Somnifac View Post
Installed the bushing last night. Installation was easy enough. Left the bearing be, as I could feel no play in it. Reassembled everything, and there's no play that I can feel once the cassette is installed. Hope to give it a ride this weekend to see if the howl is gone.
Please report back as to how good this solution worked.
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Old 01-18-13, 04:13 PM   #17
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http://www.tech-mavic.com/tech-mavic...road/roues.htm
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Old 02-01-13, 06:24 AM   #18
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Please report back as to how good this solution worked.
First chance to ride the cx bike was last night (been on the trainer lots, ugh) and everything seemed OK. No abnormal sounds, everything felt OK.

So, if you're experiencing an awful sound from your Mavic freehub, this kit looks like it might really do the trick.
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Old 02-01-13, 01:34 PM   #19
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^Thanks.
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Old 02-01-13, 10:42 PM   #20
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Let me get this straight...

A wheelset from a respected big name like Mavic, the model name containing the word 'Elite' no less, employs a goddamn bushing instead of a proper bearing.

Oookay then. So Mavic actually blows chunks.
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Old 02-01-13, 11:49 PM   #21
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According to Mavic, as stated by Lennard Zinn, "The bushing on the inboard interior end of the freehub body...is actually far superior to a bearing...it can withstand almost a ton of load without distorting, whereas a bearing can be damaged with a 300 kg load applied to it. Itís 40 grams lighter than a bearing, and when freewheeling, there is no load on the bushing and hence no friction..."

Keep in mind internal combustion engines have plain bearings, not roller bearings, on the connecting rod ends, and for the main journals.

When servicing a Mavic freehub, if the pawls aren't two piece with a red nylon tab, replace them with the FTS-X pawls 32430301. Softer all metal pawls are a source of abrasive as they wear, the FTS-X pawls are made of hardened steel which produces less grit. I serviced two hubs recently, both had worn pawls, with slivers of metal they sloughed off caught between the bushing and spindle, which wore grooves in the surface. The pawl edges were rounded off where they made contact with the gear teeth.
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Old 10-24-17, 09:46 AM   #22
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Mavic Ksyrium Elite hubs 2015

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy Somnifac View Post
I'm looking to overhaul my rear hub. It's developed quite a shriek at higher speeds (typically in the 28+ mph range) and it's awful. This is the 2nd wheel this has happened to, with the first being sent into Mavic and having them redo it for $80. They replaced the bearings and all was good, but if this is doable myself, I'll give it a go.

I've sourced bearings, but having pulled the freehub off to get to the cartridge bearings. What's the most effective way to remove them? Once they are out, I figure I can fashion a reasonable bearing press from a couple appropriately sized washers, a couple nuts and some threaded rod.

Thanks.
Just serviced a set of Mavic Ksyrium Elite 2015 wheels. Trying to find the correct size bearings before stripping out was a bit of a mare to be honest. For info - donít bother with branded mavic bearings unless unnecessarily fastidious or loaded, instead source from engineering company or bearing seller such as Bearing King etc. You need:

Mavic Ksyrium elite 2015 bearings

Front Wheel - bearing 6001 x 2 dimensions 12,28,8 (inner hole diameter-outer diameter- depth)
Rear Wheel - bearing 6001 x1 + 2 x 9227 dimensions 9,22,7 (inner hole diameter-outer diameter and depth) inc free hub bearing)

Need a 17mm socket and wrench, 2 x adjustable wrenches, hex keys, small bearing puller 10/12mm and slide hammer, bearing press with narrow bar (less than 9mm) and guides, mavic hub spanner and cassette tools.
de-greaser, grease and oil.
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Old 10-24-17, 02:12 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy Somnifac View Post
I'm looking to overhaul my rear hub. It's developed quite a shriek at higher speeds (typically in the 28+ mph range) and it's awful. This is the 2nd wheel this has happened to, with the first being sent into Mavic and having them redo it for $80. They replaced the bearings and all was good, but if this is doable myself, I'll give it a go.

I've sourced bearings, but having pulled the freehub off to get to the cartridge bearings. What's the most effective way to remove them? Once they are out, I figure I can fashion a reasonable bearing press from a couple appropriately sized washers, a couple nuts and some threaded rod.

Thanks.
I suspect your "preload" is too high. Do your wheels spin much less freely when your QR skewers are secured vs left undone? When you weight the bearings (get on your bike and ride) I suspect you make the situation even worse. The bearings are getting crushed.

rydabent on this forum states:
Quote:
So called "pre load" means the bearings or races are deflecting. This will ruin bearing in the long run. Take your time and with the wheel mounted and the quick release tight, you should be able to feel and ever so slight movement of the wheel at that rim several places around the rim. I have always wondered where this nonsense of preload ever come from.
Quote:
My 2008 Stratus now has over 15,000 miles on it, and has been flawless.
That's with his original bearings. He doesn't preload them nor does he ride in the rain.

Last edited by RowdyTI; 10-24-17 at 02:49 PM.
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