frost_okc

I'm new to the forum and wanted to see if anyone has had luck putting a 32mm tire on the stock Mavic wheels on a r900? The Kenda Kwik Trax are supposed to be a good commuting tire and I need something like that for urban offroading. Would moving to cantilever brakes be necessary to get the clearance on this model? Is there a better way of going about building a poor man's cyclocross/super commuter?

bradtx

frost_okc, Cannondale road frames are generally limited to 25 mm tires because of the rear brake bridge. A 28 mm tire can usually be mounted and clear the chain stays, but the brake caliper may need reversing on the rear brake bridge. Measure the inside width of the chain stays at the BB to insure a 32 mm will fit there and also that it won't hit the seat tube.

Brad

LarDasse74

Most somewhat modern (~late 1980s and newer) road bikes that I have seen have too little clearance between the rim and the frame or fork, so changing brakes will likely not make much of a difference. Anyhow, how would you intend to mount cantilever brakes?

You can sort of estimate the chances of your preferred choice using a bit of simple math: if you have , say, 700 X 25c (25mm wide) tires and want to fit 32mm wide tires, check if there is more than 7mm of clearance left over. Tires of different models and from different manufacturers are not all the same size, even if they are all called 700 X 32 C, so the only way to know for sure if it will work is to try it.

It is kind of unlikely it will work, though. Most road bikes have trouble fitting 28mm tires, so 32 are likely a no-go.

One possible option would be to switch to 650 B wheels with long-reach caliper brakes... this is a pretty complicated solution, though, as it requires building or buying new wheels and brakes. It would likely be easier to find a 2nd hand bike that fits fatter tires without modification. Old 10-speeds designed for 27" wheels are usually great when fitted with 700C wheels as they have an extra 4mm of clearance (which is usually already ample) over the 27" wheels. As long as the brake pads can be adjusted down 4mm on a 27" wheel bike, 700C wheels should fit without a problem.

Good luck!

FastJake

I seriously doubt it. Those 2.8 frames were tight. I think 28s would be a stretch. The brakes aren't the problem, the frame is.

If you want a cross/commuter, I'm afraid you will need a different frame.

Camilo

Yes, buy a Nashbar cyclocross frame for about $100 (haven't checked lately, but used to be available on sale for that price sometimes) and an inexpensive fork. Transfer all parts from your Cannondale to that bike. The only thing you'll have to buy is some cantilever or V brakes for the new frame, and if V brakes, a set of travel agent adapters so they work properly with your STI levers. Maybe $200 in parts, not including fenders or a rack if you decide to go with those things too.

frost_okc

Yeah I'd like to stay with an aluminum frame if possible. Btw, I don't have the Cannondale, was just looking for a tall aluminum roadbike to convert. There's a 50cm older Centurion Lemans I have, but not sure the parts would swap to a taller bike. Will probably go with a Gravity Liberty from Bikesdirect.

LarDasse74

Too bad you are limiting your search to aluminum - there are many many many good quality steel bikes available that would suit your purposes.

frost_okc

Sounds like a fun project now that you mention it. Its just tough to find a 61+cm used bike in these parts, although I admit I haven't been looking long. Do I need to make sure the 700c rear wheel has the same number of sprockets as the bike's original 27 inchers? Or can the hub/sprockets be swapped to the new wheels? Sorry, might be a newb question.

LarDasse74

Since almost no 27" bikes came with indexed (click) shifting (indexed shifting came out mid/late 80s and 27" bikes were becoming rare by then), the shifting system will work with just about any number of cogs. You might want to change the chain to one designed for higher numbers (9 or 10 or 11) if you are going that route. There may be a difference in hub over-locknut-dimension (OLD spacing), but a steel frame can usually just be bent to fit whatever wheel you have.

But since you are trying to keep costs down, I would (1) leave the 27" wheels on for a while as they usually come stock with 32mm (1-1/4") tires, and replace when they get damaged, and (2) find an older set of wheels that may have the same or closer spacing to the original, and be much cheaper than buying a modern set.

frost_okc

Well I sprung for a 1981 Miyata 110 SP 62 cm. It fits me really well but it seems to be a lot slower than the Centurion LeMans. The guy I bought it from told me he didn't think the triple crank is original but the catalog seems to show a triple crank:

The crank is a Sugino AT. I'm hearing a knocking sound coming from the bottom bracket once per revolution and trying to get to the bottom of it. Is this the right tool to pull the crank? https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Pull...m+bracket+tool

LarDasse74

If it is properly adjusted it will go as fast as any modern hybrid or touring bike. If it is really slow compared to another bike you have recently ridden, see if there is anything causing unnecessary drag in the wheel or bottom bracket bearings. You mentioned there might be something wrong with the bottom bracket so that might be a clue. Also make sure the tires are properly inflated. If you have 27 X 1-1/4" tires, they should be inflated up to at least 90 psi or so. The reccomended maximum pressure should be written on the tires. IF you are a big guy (you must be if you fit a 62cm) then you likely need the tires at or near their max pressure.

Unless the cranks have been changed to something very old and odd, that crank puller will work. You will also need a 14mm or 15mm socket. Make sure you have removed any washers from the crank before you try to use the crank puller. And make sure you thread the crankpuller all the way into the threads of the crank before you start turning in the handle.

frost_okc

Thanks for the reply. I repacked the front axle and bearings and now it spins much more freely. A tip for other noobs: don't overtighten the axle nut, or it will create undue friction on the bearings. When you have the right tightness on the axle nut, it will spin for several dozen revolutions when you spin it by hand on the bike.

Another thing that may have made me think it was slower was that the brakes were shot, which subconciously kept me from going faster. So I put on the Kool Stop Continental Salmons, and they work great, except for some minor squealing at high pressure. But that may go away once they are broken in. The sound I attributed to the crankset was from the outer chainring being out of true. It sort of wobbles as it rotates like a wheel that is out of true. Also the shifter cable to the crank is a little snug, so it pulls the derailleur toward the worn chainring. I was thinking of putting a bigger outer chainring on anyway for a higher top speed.

well biked

FWIW, the Sugino AT was Sugino's top of the line triple crank of the '80's. A beautiful, elegant crankset IMO. It came as original equipment on many brands' top of the line touring bikes during that time period. As for the bent chainring, replacement Sugino chainrings are still readily available.

frost_okc

Took it to the LBS for a diagnosis and the guy said it was a loose bottom bracket. He snugged it up and it was quiet for a while I think but it vibrated loose on the way home. So that seems to elminate the outer chainring problem for now.
But we found my dad a Raleigh Sportif 10 spd this weekend. I was able to give him some grips and my pedals as I've upgraded to SPD. But now he wants my wheelset as the bike is from NY and the spokes are rusty and glazed with road salt and the original tires are dry rotted.
So I'm thinking about going ahead with the 700c wheels and Kwik Trax tires upgrade. I was wondering if I can upgrade from a 5 speed rear cog to a 7 speed? Do they even sell 5 speed freewheel cogs anymore?