sbslider

I was just looking for a recomendation from one that someone had used and said, "Wow, this is the best thing since sliced bread" Your comment, "For brands, both Planet bike, and Topeak build decent gauges," I thought was just a reafirmation that the two units I mentioned in my OP were decent enough. Those two, and the one I bought, the SKS airchecker, all seem descent. but the SKS has a head designed for presta and another designed for shrader, so I thought I could be the best at keeping a good seal while taking a measurement.

Thanks, for the inputs, sorry if I came off as obnoxious, but it happens some times.

Road Fan

I second this recommendation! It's mechanical (no batteries!), decently accurate, consistent as far as I can tell, and metal. About $25.

calstar 

This isn't for the OP(not dual valve compatible), I don't own/haven't used but here one is:

https://www.amazon.com/Meiser-Presta-.../dp/B004XISIK4

JTGraphics

Gauge on pump is best every time you try reading you will most likely loose 5 - 10 lbs. or more you what's the point. Get a pump with a gauge pump it to were you want and remove.

Road Fan

Good point! They do have a Schraeder version, too, since automotive air is their main business, but I don't know about a dual.

Road Fan

I partially agree with "what's the point," but for those who do want 96 psi, they can just pump it up to 100 and expect the 4 psi loss, for example. A "correct" air pressure target is a nebulous thing. It depends on the tire carcass design, the degree of carcass stretch, and temperature. But on narrow tubulars the "like" window is narrow, though hard to quantify.

DEW21

Yep, I gave up on trying to measure tire pressure with a seperate gauge. The slightest hiss from trying to accurately connect the gauge and you have allready lost 5 psi.

Creaky Crank

I have never had a mechanical gauge stay accurate; dial gauges even on the best floor pumps invariably go off by 10 - 25 psi over time, and end up only useful for relative inflation, as I get used to the error. Digital gauges, like the Slime presta I've used for years, seem to stay consistent and it reads exactly the same as a Topeak, so I trust them far more. Half pound or smaller increments is very useful when I only ride 18-24 psi in MTB tires. Dial gauges from industrial sources only tout like a 10% accuracy, so to me +/- 9 psi at 90 is not workable at all.
I once had a small British pencil type for Presta that was ok in the old days, and would be easy to put in a seat kit, but have not seen them in years, and mine suddenly stopped working at all, despite flushing with solvents.

2_i 

Wow! My run down: Mechanical gauges should be avoided at this day and age. The mechanical parts gunk up and with time the gauge begins to give bad readings and it is hard to tell that they are bad. The mechanical parts are necessarily delicate in order to move the dial precisely with little air taken in.

The mentioned Topeak and SKS gauges are actually bad. They have unnecessarily thick necks that will sooner or later conflict with some situation where the vent is in a tight space. Either it will be impossible to stick the gauge in or it will be necessary to endanger the vent. They also release so much air in measurement that it becomes unclear whether the measured value pertains to the start of the measuring process, middle or the end, with the differences exceeding the desired psi of accuracy.

My favorite Beto/Panasonic gauge off the market right now - it released nearly no air and gave accurate repeatable measurement values and had some other positive features. However, there seems to be a replacement Beto/Schwalbe gauge that I would suggest trying out. See a review here and more can be found by googling.