Mtb threaded fork question.
 

Picked up a trek 930 mtb but the guy swapped out the front fork with a suntour, it's weird because it has about 2" of threads above the headset and then he stuffed the quill inside that to mount his handle bars.

Would I would like to do is wack those extra threads off and mount a quill stem adaptor and but a new sten and handlebars on it.

This can't be right, I don't see any spacers in the headset either it's like he just screwed it down till it got tight.

Unless someone's got a trek fork for an old mountain bike sitting around to go back original?

post a photo of it

There was a recent thread that overlaps with some of the issues of this one. You want the stem to insert below the threaded portion of the steerer. After that has been achieved the amount of spacers between the locknut and the threaded bearing race is moot.

Replacing a fork often is for a reason, like a frontal impact. Do the safe thing and inspect the rest of the frame before going forward. Andy.

I can't make sense of your explanation. Post a photo and we might be able to help.

It's common for after market threaded forks to be sold at raw length, ie with a long threaded section. The extra cost of cutting a longer thread is compensated by not having to stock several versions of the same fork in order to match frames with different length head tubes.

Usually people will do a test assembly, mark up the excess, pull the fork out, thread the lockring/cone down below the mark, then cut the excess off.
Backing out the lockring/cone will then help to clean up the threads, and reassembly will give you a clean, factory look to the install.
Some people can't be bothered, and depending on design(some lockrings allow the steerer to come clean through, others will bottom out) will either slap on a stack of spacers until the lockring tightens up, or simply keep screwing down on the lockring, leaving a length of threaded steerer exposed.

As Andrew writes, there's a point to having the wedge of a quill stem(adapter) engage below the threaded part of the steerer.

that makes sense, i'll post some pictures when i get home this evening, i am still on the hunt for an original fork, i dont like to piece meal things, i'd rather it be right, right now my parts list is a quill stem adaptor, easton stem,easton handle bars and new shifters. Any suggestions on shimano shifters, the deraiulers are shimano STX?

Why? just add spacers between the top nut and the headset, most quill stems are short,
and a tall steerer gets them up to a comfortable height, for my use..



No pictures? bring the bike into a bike shop, they can see it and help.

I would not cut it short, it wont grow back. :rolleyes:

Because the threads on the steerer weaken it to the point that the stem quill has to end up a decent distance below the threaded section anyway - regardless of how much steerer tube there is, the quill will need to be the same length for a given bar height, in order to reach the non-threaded portion of the steerer.

Uploading a couple to photobucket now, I'm afraid with a 2" space between the top nut and the top of the threaded fork that the quill doesn't make it into the headset and when I pull hard or hit hard the it will crack the the top half of the fork. I'm 230 lbs so it doesn't take much force to make **** bend. You ought to see me power my Orbea Tri- bike up a hill. I think it'll make more sense when I finally get the pictures loaded. Brb.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...psabbaf187.gif

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1.../headset-2.jpg
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...ut/headset.jpg

If there are not enough threads to let the headset screw all the way down, Know Sheldon
shows a hybrid threadless headset , threaded up top and held in place with those threaded nuts and locknuts.


actually 2" , 5 cm is not that much, a long Quill stem like Nitto Technomic will span the longer distance. to reach below the headset.

You have the headset adjustment secured with a through threaded nut, (?)
I did a spacer of steel Tube, and then put the top headset Nut on top of the steerer tube
and secured the styeel tube spacer with the Top Locknut ..
So through that portion it is double wall steel.

its on my self contained loaded touring bike , already used it on a 6+ month tour
of Ireland and Scotland. with no issues ,

It even functions as its own headset press , when I put the CK headset together.

ya, that is indeed a CF (cluster ******* :lol:

I wish someone had told my parents that before they gave me the traditional "take a little off the top" soon after my birth :eek:

I never did "match" my dad after that. :D

Wow, that's strange. I'd probably ditch the whole mess and get a 1 1/8" threadless fork, headset, and stem. I'd try finding a cheap used rigid fork.

You might check with your local bike shops. They may end up with a few from converting rigid MTB's to shock forks. One bike shop here has a bucket of them, I assume that is how they ended up with them. There are also bike recyclers and if you have any bike co-ops, they might be your best bet.

Yep, looks like the bike is scavenged together from ?hopefully not stolen? random parts.
The W-'womens specific design' quill it has came off a ladies department store schwinn
is that a v-brake I see? I hope the brake levers are linear pull; the original ones for a 930 arent...

yeah, don't get a quill adaptor; those are best used for when you have a threaded fork that *you want to keep* but still want modern stem selection

just ditch the fork; it's not a good one.
Get a threadless rigid fork (that bike is meant to be non-suspended at any rate, that random SR fork is probably offsetting the geometry)
things will be much cleaner

OP; The photo indicates its been screwed with by an idiot (sorry). First the threads look like they have been filed off so the steerer will fit through the top nut...which it normally would not at all. And suspect the top nut has also been enlarged for this reason also. Overall looks like someone wrecked the bike killing the fork and just found something to jam into it so he could sell it off as he clrearly had few clues as to how to install a fork correctly. Be suspect that the frame may have damage also. Hopefully you got it for a really low price...

What makes it womens specific? Is this just a marketing ploy for a shorter stem?

It's off a department store bike, so it may not mean anything...