Need a little axle/bearing help
03-14-13, 05:02 PM
#1
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Need a little axle/bearing help
Got this wheel for a bike that needs a bit longer axle. I had one that's just right in the parts bin, so I proceeded to break apart what I thought were cone lock nuts and came across the sealed bearing assembly pictured. My question is can I replace the axle? It won't twist or slip out. I guess I need to pry out the press fit assembly? I hate to ruin anything,so I'm hesitant to try. On he bearing seal: sp6000rs. Suggestions? Thanks for any help.
03-14-13, 05:11 PM
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You should be able to tap the axle from the end you are showing the axle and bearing will come out together remove bearing from axle, the bearing on the other side will be in the hub you can remove it if needed from the other side and push it out. Search for an easy video to follow its a quite simple process to remove sealed bearing from hubs. Is this a from hub or rear? if its the rear you also need to remove the other side first.
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It may not be fancy but it gets me were I need to go.
https://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm
Last edited by JTGraphics; 03-14-13 at 05:22 PM.
03-14-13, 06:11 PM
#3
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Front wheel. Will also search for vids. For now, so I can use a rubber/plastic tipped hammer and (1) tap out the axle. Both axle and bearing assembly will come out the opposite side. (2) Slide off bearing assembly from old axle and slide on to new axle. (3) Put axle/bearing assembly back into hub. (4) Tap axle from either side to center it up. I'm assuming I can push back the removed bearing assembly back into the hub. Have I got it? Thanks
03-15-13, 07:22 AM
#4
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Looks like I'm dead in the water. The tutorials show that sealed bearing axles have shoulders on them and the axle I was going to use doesn't. Not like the old days when modifications were easy and cheap.
03-15-13, 11:37 AM
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Maybe not. Find a piece of pipe/tubing that'll fit faírly well over your new axle, not too much slop. Pipe/tube has to be decently strong, copper water pipe probably won't do. Cut to exactly the same length as measured over the shoulders of the old axle. Mount one bearing to the hub. Insert one end of axle. Slip tube over axle. Mount other bearing. Done!
03-15-13, 01:31 PM
#7
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Yes a spacer tube touching just the inner ring, , the inside race, of the cartridge bearing will do,
though If the pair of lock nuts on the outside of both sides, are adjusted well
the axle wont move sideways through the bearings..
though If the pair of lock nuts on the outside of both sides, are adjusted well
the axle wont move sideways through the bearings..
03-16-13, 03:06 AM
#8
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A longer axle still would need the smooth section to mate properly with the ID of both bearings.
Whatever you need a longer axle for, could longer axle nuts possibly substitute for that? I can't imagine the reason though.
These kind of hubs have been around for almost as long as I can remember. They took off in popularity in 1978 when Sansin's cartridge-bearing hubs started getting spec'd, but were also preceeded in the early 1970's by the popular Viscount bike's cartridge-bearing hubs.
Whatever you need a longer axle for, could longer axle nuts possibly substitute for that? I can't imagine the reason though.
These kind of hubs have been around for almost as long as I can remember. They took off in popularity in 1978 when Sansin's cartridge-bearing hubs started getting spec'd, but were also preceeded in the early 1970's by the popular Viscount bike's cartridge-bearing hubs.
03-16-13, 05:04 AM
#9
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Whatever you need a longer axle for, could longer axle nuts possibly substitute for that? I can't imagine the reason though. Attachment point for metal cargo basket I use occasionally. Double nutting the axle allows removal & installation of the basket quickly without disturbing wheel alignment.
03-16-13, 04:18 PM
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Whatever you need a longer axle for, could longer axle nuts possibly substitute for that? I can't imagine the reason though. Attachment point for metal cargo basket I use occasionally. Double nutting the axle allows removal & installation of the basket quickly without disturbing wheel alignment.
If you could find or make a long enough hex hut to extend beyond the end of the existing axle, a stub axle with a nut LocTited to it's end could then be threaded into the long nut, securing the basket stays without disturbing the axle's attachment to the fork.
Drilling and tapping a length of hex stock might be complicated by the fine, metric threading needed for the axle, or not.
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