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-   -   Wheel truing issue (https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/879761-wheel-truing-issue.html)

RGW 03-25-13 02:46 PM

Wheel truing issue
 
I took my bike to LBS for a total overhaul. The tech tells me they could not true the wheels though as the spoke to nipple was too corroded and could not turn (note there is no visible rust or corrosion). Wheels are Mavic MA3s laced to Ultegra hubs. not sure what kind of spokes, but they appear to be quality ones. Tech indicated that he oiled the nipples, but still could not get them to turn. He suggested wheels would need to be rebuilt with new spokes. The wheels are probably about 8 years old, but rims & hubs are in great shape. Does this sound like a reasonable situation?? Is this something that typically will happen to an older rim? I have not had these trued in several years, but would have thought that with a good penetraiting oil and some time, they would loosen up.

Appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks!!!

cny-bikeman 03-25-13 03:01 PM

I can't imagine why a mechanic would turn down an opportunity to true a wheel, so I would have no reason to doubt what he said. A spoke wrench on the nipples would easily confirm if you wish. Certainly if you rode in Buffalo during or just after winter your bike would have been exposed to salt, which corrodes things very quickly. If the spoke threads were not protected with spoke prep or lubricant it's quite possible for them to corrode without visible rusting.

mconlonx 03-25-13 03:18 PM


Originally Posted by RGW (Post 15430253)
Does this sound like a reasonable situation??

Yes. 8 yrs old; Buffalo; year round rider(?). Especially if they are alloy nipples. If you have the shop rebuild the wheels, ask about their prep protocol -- greased spoke holes in the rim, thread prep of some kind for the spoke threads -- and ask them to use brass nipples. Not familiar with the MA3s -- if they don't have eyeletted spoke holes, consider a different rim which does have them.

mrrabbit 03-25-13 03:23 PM

Assuming these are brass nipples, have the mechanic drop a drop of Tri-Flow down the barrel side of each nipple, and then try bracing each spoke using a "Twist-Resist" tool while working the spoke wrench to free the nipples.

...if they're alloy, I'm usually find myself calling for a nipple sacrifice while salvaging the spokes if they are quality spokes like DT, Wheelsmith or Sapim.

=8-)

bobotech 03-25-13 03:25 PM

I just had to rebuild my wheel. About 1/3rd the nipples were solidly frozen to the spokes and had to be cut to be removed. Once I removed them all, I rebuilt it with new nipples, spokes, and lube on the nipples.

I tried to save some of the spokes but as soon as I grabbed the nipples with a visegrip to free them up, the nipple crumbed and was unable to be removed.

mrrabbit 03-25-13 03:25 PM

Also, perhaps the spokes already have a "glue" of some sort like Beeswax...Loctite...etc.?

=8-)

Sixty Fiver 03-25-13 03:46 PM

It is entirely possible that the spokes and nipples are so badly seized that your mechanic does not think the wheel can be worked on.

You can apply penetrating fluid and give it some time to see if this frees up the nipples so you can true the wheel but if they are this badly seized replacement and a rebuild is probably the best option.

Chombi 03-25-13 03:53 PM

As already noted, I would tend to believe the mechanic's assessment on the wheesl if the nipples are aluminum.
Using aluminum nipples has to be one of the most questionable things in bikedom as aside from seizing from corrosion, they are very vulnerable to galling and seizing at the threads, even when first assembled as the aluminum nipples are so much softer than the steel spokes. Always look for good quality brass nipples on wheelsets to mostly avoid these problems.....

Chombi

Bill Kapaun 03-25-13 04:24 PM

I've dealt with old wheels on the bikes I flip on CL.
I consider a nipples to be sacrificial if the wheel NEEDS to be trued.
I'll remove the tire & rim strip and apply a little PO with a hypo and give them some soak time.
Usually a spoke wrench AND screwdriver, used together, will then get them off. IF not, a vise grip hasn't failed me yet. Just tear the nipple off by rotating.

Sounds like the mechanic didn't want to bother. I don't blame him, since you probably wouldn't have been happy with the bill. Too much labor!

unterhausen 03-25-13 05:11 PM

I had a wheel built with aluminum nipples and all I got out of it when I went to true it was the hub. I really don't think those nipples would have come loose. Not sure if they used some sort of thread locker or what, but it was a disappointment

MrCharlie 03-25-13 06:03 PM

What shop? (Is this ok to ask publicly?)

RGW 03-25-13 06:44 PM

Thanks for all the input!! very helful. The rims do have eyelets; why would these not be preferred? I believe the nipples are alloy too. The wheels are 36 spokes each, so from a cost perspective, I think I will try & take the time to see if I can salvage them the spokes, and rebuild with new brass nipples. I've never built a wheel before though, so any tips, or reference recommendations would be great!!! Thanks again. This forum is great!!

MrCharlie 03-25-13 06:55 PM

Apparently you need 50 messages to PM, so I can't do that. But, I'm in Buffalo and am well setup and seasoned for wheel building. Drop me a line if you need some help or just want to see how it works.


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