Truing Stand Park Tool TS-2
05-09-13, 09:05 AM
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Truing Stand Park Tool TS-2
I picked up a used park tool ts-2 truing stand at a garage sale for $30. Got it home and could not get the arms to adjust the width. I turn the knob that is on the threaded rod. The handle spins and tightens but i cannot tighten it any harder; if I turn the other way the knob unscrews and comes off. I was wandering if there is a way to fix this? Or am I just not doing it right?
Any help would be appreciated!!!!
Noobowner.
Any help would be appreciated!!!!
Noobowner.
Last edited by noobowner; 05-09-13 at 09:15 AM.
05-09-13, 09:33 AM
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The little barrels with tiny allen locking set screws are probably loose - one barrel each on the inside of both arms...
=8-)
=8-)
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
05-09-13, 09:33 AM
#3
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Is the knob locked to the shaft with the jam nut?
05-09-13, 09:43 AM
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+1 on both above posts.
Start by oiling the threads. Then make sure the jam nut is tight against the knob. If you don't have a jam nut behind the knob, buy one it's a standard 1/2" thread. Once the knob is secure, work it back and forth so the oil gets into the two cylindrical nuts at the bottom of the swing arms. Keep working the shaft back and forth without forcing it but trying to expand the range until you have full range of travel.
Lastly use the collars inside of the stanchions to center. Mount a correctly dished wheel (fronts are usually OK) clamp gently, loosen both collars, and tap the tops of the stanchions across until the wheel is centered in the calipers. Tighten the collars to set the position. Use the collars to get decently close to perfect, then fine tune by using the nuts on the caliper arm to walk it across to center precisely.
Start by oiling the threads. Then make sure the jam nut is tight against the knob. If you don't have a jam nut behind the knob, buy one it's a standard 1/2" thread. Once the knob is secure, work it back and forth so the oil gets into the two cylindrical nuts at the bottom of the swing arms. Keep working the shaft back and forth without forcing it but trying to expand the range until you have full range of travel.
Lastly use the collars inside of the stanchions to center. Mount a correctly dished wheel (fronts are usually OK) clamp gently, loosen both collars, and tap the tops of the stanchions across until the wheel is centered in the calipers. Tighten the collars to set the position. Use the collars to get decently close to perfect, then fine tune by using the nuts on the caliper arm to walk it across to center precisely.
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Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
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05-09-13, 09:43 AM
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All good advice to check above those collars are also the centering adjustments read up on adjusting it at park tools website they have instructions on how it works,
Thats a good price if it works
Thats a good price if it works
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It may not be fancy but it gets me were I need to go.
https://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm
05-09-13, 12:20 PM
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alright i keep messing with it and loosened the alan wrench spots and now it just goes side to side not changing width but angle. seems like i cant get the threaded rod to spin
05-09-13, 12:29 PM
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Remove the knob, buy 1 or 2 1/2" nuts put them on the shaft and lock them together securely. Oil the nuts at the base of the stanchions, and let it run in. If you have liquid wrench, or kroil, or a similar product use that, or you can try oil thinned with acetone or nail polish remover.
Now use a wrench to try to rotate the shaft by way of the jammed nuts. Once you break it loose, work it back and forth by degrees to expand the range of motion without forcing it and jamming it anew.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
05-09-13, 01:34 PM
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thanks FBinNY that did the trick was a little rusty sounding when i got it to spin so used some wd-40 and got it to move easy now. Just have to get it centered now. Any tips on that? i have a bike that has been rode like once if that can i use the front tire of that to center it?
Last edited by noobowner; 05-09-13 at 01:48 PM.
05-09-13, 01:41 PM
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Read the rest of my first post. Also, put some light grease on heavier oil and work it into the nuts for longer lasting wear protection.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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