un-hexed an Ultegra Br-6600 Centering Screw, anyone know where to get a replacement?
05-26-13, 06:24 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Amherst, MA
Posts: 205
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
un-hexed an Ultegra Br-6600 Centering Screw, anyone know where to get a replacement?
As the title implies, I took a hex wrench to the centering screw of an Ultegra 6600 brake caliper, went a bit too tight on the adjustment, and %$#@, the hex ridges turned into a circle.
Problem #1: how do I take the screw out?
Problem #2: Where can I get a replacement, preferably with a phillips head?
Problem #3: Is my hex set's material too hard?
Thanks, this isn't the first time this has happened, last time was with the dust caps on the bottom bracket. Always the little things...
Problem #1: how do I take the screw out?
Problem #2: Where can I get a replacement, preferably with a phillips head?
Problem #3: Is my hex set's material too hard?
Thanks, this isn't the first time this has happened, last time was with the dust caps on the bottom bracket. Always the little things...
05-26-13, 06:39 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,613
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1997 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,045 Times
in
711 Posts
1. Try to find a small Torx driver that's a snug fit in the hex (or former hex) recess. Sometimes these will bite when a hex key won't
2. Once you get the bolt out, take it to a hardware store that sells metric bolts and find a match. I assume it's a relatively short M3 or M4 bolt.
3. Your hex keys aren't too hard but may be too worn. Hex keys in general and small ones in particular get worn, lose their sharp edges and do just what you experienced. They are not a lifetime purchase and should be replace periodically.
4. Actually, there is no reason to use those centering screws for any caliper brake set, particularly double pivot types. You can easily set the pad clearance with the cable adjuster and center the pads by rotating the entire caliper by hand. I've installed and adjusted dozens of caliper brake sets and never once touched those centering screws. Cantilever and V-brakes do require using the centering/tension screws but not road calipers.
2. Once you get the bolt out, take it to a hardware store that sells metric bolts and find a match. I assume it's a relatively short M3 or M4 bolt.
3. Your hex keys aren't too hard but may be too worn. Hex keys in general and small ones in particular get worn, lose their sharp edges and do just what you experienced. They are not a lifetime purchase and should be replace periodically.
4. Actually, there is no reason to use those centering screws for any caliper brake set, particularly double pivot types. You can easily set the pad clearance with the cable adjuster and center the pads by rotating the entire caliper by hand. I've installed and adjusted dozens of caliper brake sets and never once touched those centering screws. Cantilever and V-brakes do require using the centering/tension screws but not road calipers.
05-26-13, 07:58 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,317
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1437 Post(s)
Liked 1,085 Times
in
720 Posts
Besides Hillrider's removal ideas, you might be able to saw or Dremel a slot in the screw to remove it, or epoxy a sacrificial driver into the rounded-out slot. A slightly larger fractional-sized driver may also be forced into the recess.
Worn hex keys are common and while cheap to replace, you can often get a little more life out of them by grinding the worn end off flat to expose new, sharper driving edges.
Worn hex keys are common and while cheap to replace, you can often get a little more life out of them by grinding the worn end off flat to expose new, sharper driving edges.
05-26-13, 03:41 PM
#4
bike whisperer
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Posts: 9,505
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1506 Post(s)
Liked 704 Times
in
499 Posts
Originally Posted by HillRider
Actually, there is no reason to use those centering screws for any caliper brake set, particularly double pivot types. You can easily set the pad clearance with the cable adjuster and center the pads by rotating the entire caliper by hand. I've installed and adjusted dozens of caliper brake sets and never once touched those centering screws. Cantilever and V-brakes do require using the centering/tension screws but not road calipers.
__________________
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
03-28-23, 09:14 PM
#5
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by HillRider
4. Actually, there is no reason to use those centering screws for any caliper brake set, particularly double pivot types. You can easily set the pad clearance with the cable adjuster and center the pads by rotating the entire caliper by hand. I've installed and adjusted dozens of caliper brake sets and never once touched those centering screws. Cantilever and V-brakes do require using the centering/tension screws but not road calipers.
03-28-23, 09:37 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 37,143
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5007 Post(s)
Liked 1,125 Times
in
655 Posts
Originally Posted by noahthomas77
You’re talking about dual pivot calipers that have a single mounting bolt. You need the centering adjustment on dual pivot mount calipers. You can’t just simply turn them as they have 2 mounting bolts!
Otherwise, I've never seen a 2 bolt caliper brake, and even fewer 2 hole forks.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
03-28-23, 10:00 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 37,143
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5007 Post(s)
Liked 1,125 Times
in
655 Posts
Assuming you haven't moved the bolt so far as to totally unbalance the brake, just a t leave bad enough alone. Follow the advice above, mount the brake, rotate it to center, tighten and ride.
For future reference, many of these small positioning screws are best adjusted with the load off. That makes them easier to turn and will prevent damaging them.
For future reference, many of these small positioning screws are best adjusted with the load off. That makes them easier to turn and will prevent damaging them.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
03-28-23, 10:28 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: NW Oregon
Posts: 2,061
Bikes: !982 Trek 930R Custom, Diamondback ascent with SERIOUS updates, Fuji Team Pro CF and a '09 Comencal Meta 5.5
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 895 Post(s)
Liked 267 Times
in
207 Posts
Originally Posted by Distinguished
As the title implies, I took a hex wrench to the centering screw of an Ultegra 6600 brake caliper, went a bit too tight on the adjustment, and %$#@, the hex ridges turned into a circle.
Problem #1: how do I take the screw out?
Problem #2: Where can I get a replacement, preferably with a phillips head?
Problem #3: Is my hex set's material too hard?
Thanks, this isn't the first time this has happened, last time was with the dust caps on the bottom bracket. Always the little things...
Problem #1: how do I take the screw out?
Problem #2: Where can I get a replacement, preferably with a phillips head?
Problem #3: Is my hex set's material too hard?
Thanks, this isn't the first time this has happened, last time was with the dust caps on the bottom bracket. Always the little things...
Find an old Front der. in the parts box and you have your screws, although a bit too long.... Standard M4 thread,for the record... Ace Hardware has them too... and they will have some new Allen wrenches...
i grind mine a fresh nose every now and then.. usually the 5mm is the first ti get too short..add a dab of blue locktite to the screw or it'll back off...
Last edited by maddog34; 03-28-23 at 10:35 PM.
03-29-23, 03:29 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Surrey, UK
Posts: 778
Bikes: Mekk Poggion with SRAM Force, custom built 653 and 531 bikes with frames by Barry Witcomb, Giant XTC 4 mountain bike and a Brompton folding bike.
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 261 Post(s)
Liked 102 Times
in
76 Posts
Originally Posted by HillRider
4. Actually, there is no reason to use those centering screws for any caliper brake set, particularly double pivot types. You can easily set the pad clearance with the cable adjuster and center the pads by rotating the entire caliper by hand. I've installed and adjusted dozens of caliper brake sets and never once touched those centering screws. Cantilever and V-brakes do require using the centering/tension screws but not road calipers.
03-29-23, 08:18 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,613
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1997 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,045 Times
in
711 Posts
Originally Posted by noahthomas77
You’re talking about dual pivot calipers that have a single mounting bolt. You need the centering adjustment on dual pivot mount calipers. You can’t just simply turn them as they have 2 mounting bolts!
03-29-23, 09:00 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 3,489
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2097 Post(s)
Liked 1,704 Times
in
1,037 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY
Otherwise, I've never seen a 2 bolt caliper brake, and even fewer 2 hole forks.
03-29-23, 10:26 AM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 37,143
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5007 Post(s)
Liked 1,125 Times
in
655 Posts
Originally Posted by smd4
They exist. They're called "direct mount."
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
03-29-23, 12:25 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 3,489
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2097 Post(s)
Liked 1,704 Times
in
1,037 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY
Thanks for that. By now I should have learned not to be surprised by the industries efforts to make the simple and interchangeable less so on either front.
03-29-23, 01:21 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 37,143
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5007 Post(s)
Liked 1,125 Times
in
655 Posts
Originally Posted by smd4
They couldn't have been around too long before being supplanted by disk brakes...
For better or worse, I should be in the market for a replacement sometime in my remaining years, or at least I hope so. So I expect to be moving into the carbon age, but I'm not sure I'm ready to.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
03-31-23, 08:56 AM
#16
Senior Member
Yeah, those adjusting screws are just a gimmick. I even take the screws outta the derailleurs and set the max with the cables and just feel for the other end of the motion. NBD. Never have to worry about those screws coming out of adjustment.
03-31-23, 09:08 AM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 3,489
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2097 Post(s)
Liked 1,704 Times
in
1,037 Posts
Originally Posted by Steel Charlie
I even take the screws outta the derailleurs and set the max with the cables and just feel for the other end of the motion.
