Threaded to Threadless Stem Conversion
 

In order to avoid having to remove handlebars like this:

http://i.imgur.com/L6HNUYx.jpg

I made an executive decision to convert to a threadless stem. "Executive decision" means I knew it was probably a bad idea, but I wanted to do it anyway.

The advantages are that future handlebar removals will be easier, I'm now able to use modern handlebars (e.g. 31.8 mm) and modern stems, and depending on one's perspective, it looks a little better.

The disadvantages are that the new system weighs slightly more (50 g), and I spent more time than I every would have changing handlebars.

I started with this adapter and a stem that I had in my bike box.

Here's the before shot:

http://i.imgur.com/bALNbn7.jpg

Here's the after shot, before taping:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a39...1.jpg~original

And here are the final shots:

http://i.imgur.com/hRTIRcy.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zJb50uo.jpg

nice job , and it should work for you .

I would be tempted to put a spacer under the stem to try to get it flush with the top of the quill adapter. I have a setup like this and like it a lot - especially the compact bars. My adapter came from ebay and doesn't have the flange under the top section.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=320033

I've converted some old steel bikes to threadless stems. I'm not a fan of how they look, but they are much stiffer and I like the ease of swapping handlebars. I can't help but tinker with my bikes.

I have one from Nashbar paired with a Nashbar stem, one from Velo Orange and another adapter made by Profile. The Nashbar stem & adapter match up, but are "taller" in the mounting area than the others, much like the OP's photos.

I see what you mean, in terms of how it looks. Is that the only reason?

It's more than for looks. The main reason for having a spacer above the stem is to assure a threadless carbon steerer is fully supported by the stem clamp. For your aluminum adapter, that is unnecessary and you don't even need a gap below the stem to allow headset adjustment so the stem and adapter top can be set flush with each other.

Removing the top spacer and placing it below the stem will allow you to lower the adapter by the same distance (10 mm?) while keeping the bars at the same height. No reason to have the adapter sticking up any further than necessary.

You've already set up your bike, but just for the record (for future forum-searchers reading this thread) you can get quill stems with removable faceplates. I have them on two of my bikes (and yes, it makes changing the bars drastically more convenient). Of course, these are for 26mm clamp diameter.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=320094http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=320095

Right. I have a Profile Designs H2O stem that looks just like the one in your second photo (same maker?).

I have a brand new one of these still attached to the OEM packaging sitting in my parts box. It has the following specs: 1" quill , 100 mm reach, 90°, 26.0 mm bar clamp, 299 gms, 70 mm height adjustment range.

If anyone here can use it, it's yours for the postage (~$6.00 for a USPS Flat Rate box). PM me if you want it.

T'bones piece is fine as it is, the piece is flared, out to a shoulder under the stem, If,

the stem were to be set up to flush with the top, a spacer between the shoulder. & bottom of stem
may be appropriate.

OP; is the frame too small or is the stem jacked way up high to almost provide upright bars? If it is there for the second reason, then could be a good opportunity to switch to upright or one of the Randy bars.

Either way, be careful that you have the stem or the adapter inserted past the minimum mark.

/K

Like myself, T'bone Al is not as young and flexible as the above poster may be,

and doesnt ride with his back flat like the 20 somethings, bent way over to go fast..

mass produced frame, an inch bigger often is also much longer, so further reach to the bars..

I'm pretty sure the "Zoom" stems (purchased through Nashbar) were exactly the same design, probably from the same factory, as the Profile H2O stems.
Although the one on my singlespeed bike (pictured) apparently has a 25.4mm clamp. The faceplate didn't fit flush around a 26mm bar, so I used a 25.4 which fit perfectly. All of the H2O stems I've seen were 26.0mm.

It's the second (ow, my neck) reason (handlebars up to the level of the seat).

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=320164

And, yes, it's inserted beyond the max point, thanks for checking.

Yes, I looked for one of those, and couldn't find one that worked. one reason is the above-mentioned height of my handlebars.

Related to this, many listings in Amazon and other places, fail to have all the relevant dimensions for the stems. That is, especially for someone pushing the envelope in handlebar height, all of these measurements are necessary:

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a39...d.jpg~original

I did just that, thanks for the tip.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a39...a.jpg~original

I'm very happy with this conversion.

... I meant both for looks (looks more "finished") and to maximize the length of quill in the steerer tube. Looks good!