Freewheel Advice Needed
 

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=322311

Hi there, this is Nick here from Basingstoke in the UK. I have an old Raleigh Mountain bike (probably from the late 1990's, early 2000's) that the gears keeps slipping on when I cycle on road and especially when I go up hill when I try and change gears. The bike is pretty standard - just a 15 gear raleigh mountain bike with shimano gears (i think.) I have put new gear cables on it recently and the problem still persists.

Therefore, please could you answer some of my questions that I have - I would like some advice from people in the know - I have posted a picture with this thread for you to look at:

1. Is the condition of the freewheel anything to do with the gears slipping?
2. Have I got a freewheel or a cassette would you think?
3. What is the ring on the top with the two small holes and writing on it. How do I remove this (i.e. is there a special tool - I have tried hammer and screwdriver and it wont budge) and what is underneath? Sparks is the manufacturer.
4. How can you tell what freewheel removal tool I would need if it is a freewheel.
5. THE BIG QUESTION - Do I even need to think about taking the top part off or would the freewheel remover slit inside over the top of the axle between the axle and the freewheel body making it a much simpler job i.e. just doing the usual job with the chain whip and removal tool.

I would know how to remove a freewheel once I get down past this initial stage.

Many, many thanks for your help guys - it is appreciated,

All the best, Nick

1) Yes, those sprocket teeth look completely knackered, so even if the freewheel mechanism isn't slipping, the chain may well be skipping over the teeth on the sprockets

2) That's a freewheel

3) That ring is the outer bearing cone for the freewheel, and the reason you can't get it off is that it's left-hand threaded and tightens itself by precession, so you may be trying to drive it the wrong way and it'll need a lot of force even if you're not. There's no special tool, at least not one you're likely to find, standard procedure is the hammer and punch. Underneath it is about 60 tiny bearing balls, which will all fall out if you remove it, and be a pain to get back in, and the pawls for the freewheel mechanism, which may do the same thing. Don't bother taking it apart, if you wanted to service a freewheel you'd be advised to flush it out with WD-40 or some other solvent, and then re-lubricate it with a reasonably light oil. However, there's no point, because that one is worn out.

4) It may well use a splined Shimano tool, as I can't see the notches for a traditional 2-prong or 4-prong tool. However, I can't be sure.

Now THAT is a worn out freewheel. I think you need to remove the axle to get a tool in there. There are some very thin walled freewheel tools (Regina ?) that can be used to avoid removing the axle, but I can't tell if you have the kind of freewheel that will work with.

When you finally replace it, get a new chain too.

Since the freewheel is toast (burnt toast) you don't need to get it off intact unless you want a souvenir to prove how much you've ridden. (or ignored chain maintenance).

If you set a punch against one of those small holes, you can drive the bearing cone to the right and unscrew it (LH thread). It might take a few sharp raps, but once it pops loose, it unscrews easily. Removing the ring makes the freewheel fall apart, then you can use a pipe wrench to spin off the inner body (normal RH thread).

The reason I suggest breaking it apart is that whatever new freewheel you buy may use a different remover, so there's no sense to buying one for this one time.

OTOH, if you're going to the bike shop for a new freewheel anyway, bring the wheel and let them remove this one as part of the deal.

BTW- if you add Basingstoke UK to your profile, you won't have to say it each time you post.

Hi,

The freewheel is toast (as said burnt), you chain probably burnt to a
cinder, and the prognosis for your chainwheels is not looking good ....

Post pics of the chainwheels .... are they reversible ?

rgds, sreten.

Yes. Chainring pics please. In 40 decades of bike wrenching, I've never seen a freewheel more worn out than this. The chain will be clearly dead - 10 times over, and the rings kaput as well.

I love it!! It's like people ogling a 30 car traffic pileup.

Ogling? I want to see the chain against a ruler to see the stretch. The curvature on the teeth would put this chain as the most stretched I've probably ever seen. I vote museum piece!

I would also suggest you take the wheel to a shop and have them remove the old freewheel, when you go to get replacement. Since this freewheel will take a different tool than what you will end up replacing it with it just doesn't make since to spend a lot of time busting it apart possible breaking something or tracking down and buying a tool you will only use ounce.

I'm pretty sure the freewheel has a Shimano spline, so the needed remover will work with any current replacement freewheel.

I too would like to see a chain-length measurement for amusement.

Next question, one I am usually loathe to ask, is this bike worth freshening up?

Maybe OOogling, more Ooo's.. in it..

Ninja weapon sharpened teeth.. man that's a sight !

I have to add that I have never seen a gearset so worn out either. I like the idea of the chain that was on the bike should be a museum piece!

I have had a few motorcycle sprockets that had no teeth and the customer was wondering why it made so much noise.

-SP

Spark makes a splined freewheel tool so there is a chance that there is a Park Tool for yours.