Does a threaded steerer need a lockring?
 

So I got a NOS steel frameset a few days ago, and decided to let a local bike shop install the headset for me.
The fork was also NOS, and it needed to be cut down.

It's a traditional threaded steerer.

I specified 9mm of spacers to be fitted between the top nuts (I took the spacers to them myself)

Well, they managed to cut the steerer short so much that no spacers could be fitted, not even a single lockring. So the top nuts sit right on top of eachother.

**edit** I see that a lockring can also mean a locking nut, the ring I'm referring to is more specifically a toothed washer that's supposed to sit between the top nut and the
upper bearing race. **edit**

My question is, is a lockring always necessery, or will my bike work fine without it?

If it's OK, then I'm only left with appearance issues and possibly need of a stem with more height adjustment room,
but if a lockring is always necessery, then I'm basically screwed, right?

Also, the steerer turns a bit roughly. The LBS 'mechanic' told me it will be like that before it settles, usually a matter of a couple of rides.
Is this BS or what? I haven't noticed the steerers on new bikes to be rough like this, always turning silky smoothly.

Please help me out...

No, that washer is not essential, it just makes it a bit easier to fit the headset wrenches together to tighten the locknut to the top race. In fact, many of the washers do not have the internal tab so they don't act to keep the locknut from wanting to turn the race as it is tightened. The steering should be smooth and drag free right from the start. It sound like the adjustment is too tight.

I think I'd find a different LBS for any future work. :(

The washer isn't absolutely necessary, but I'd prefer it to be there. You could try to find a headset with a lower stack height, or even machining the locknut a bit to be able to install a washer. Some (me included) think it's better to file the tab from the washer, as it often messes up the steerer threads.
The steerer should turn smoothly from the start.
Cutting the steerer tube too short is a serious error for a professional mechanic.

If you needed 9mm of spacers to get the right fit, the bike now won't be right for you. I would tell the LBS they made a serious mistake and how do they expect them to fix it? Plus the steering should be smooth.

I can see now that the LBS made some more, really annoying errors..

I went there beforehand to talk to the mechanics and I made sure they (claimed to) having experience on threaded forks.
Well, the fork is over-tightened; presumably because even so, there still isn't enough thread left for the locking nut to safely tighten to the steerer - there's only about 4 mm max of thread connected and it's an aluminum nut. I will not be riding this bike one meter. And these forks cost upwards of 125 $ - if there ever is one available, that is.

The 'mechanics' also made a couple of very bad scratches on the frame (it's a full chrome steel frame so that takes some effort) - the scratches, about 6 of them, catch my fingernail really hard, so they have to be more than just light surface marks.

I'm very angry at the guys and they ruined my weekend (and probably most of the summer too)...

They also destroyed one of the frame decal stickers (one letter was ripped in two) and replacements need to be custom made.

They also failed to file the inner edges of the steerer after cutting it, so a stem will not fit at all (I tried) - there are edges there from the pipe cutter.

I will call their manager on monday. I would really appreciate if there is a professional out here - I need a pro evaluation of the damage done and
what would be a reasonable settlement.

The too short steerer could be 'fixed' by switching to a lower stack height headset, but the frame damage is not possible to repair, or so I think.
It's a full chrome Coppi, approx. '95 and never assembled before. I paid 320 euros for the frame+fork, both NOS.

Do you have photos of the frame and fork before the shop f*cked them up? That would help prove to the manager what damage has been done. Is it an independent shop or one of a chain? The manager should offer to (somehow) repair any damage, I can't see what they could do apart from replacing the frame and forks, quite difficult on such a rare bike. I don't know how it works in the States but in the UK you would have recourse to the local chamber of commerce and then the small claims court.

they F'd up clear instructions?

As y'all want Cheap, Bike Shop Wont / can't afford to retain Good mechanics on minimum wages .


top race you need the bearing race with the wrench flats, on top of it,
the keyed washer needs a groove milled in the threads, and on the top[ is the locknut .
there is no Lock Ring per se,
the top nut, torqued against the adjusting cup, holds the adjustment ,

and spacers in between allows a bit more Stem Height.

if no groove, the washer is there to resist spinning the adjustment as you tighten the lock nut

but with proper headset wrenches that is easily coped with.. if no washers fit..

or none are tab keyed.

Hi,

The lockring is needed in some cases. My folder has a simple knurled
ring with the lockring above and then the locking nut. Without the
lockring it would be impossible to tighten the locking nut properly.

However if the bottom can be held in place, the lockring is not needed.

rgds, sreten.

Yes it vares , my bike friday threads the lock nut down past the end of the steerer tube,
so in effect it is a ring locknut.

so a careful definition and probably pictures are needed...

With a threaded headset, between the cone and locknut, a single washer with the antirotation tooth is ideal.
However, if there is no room, you may use a pair of cone wrenches, and torque the cone and locknut against each other to prevent loosening. -same as method in most hubs


additional important note
you wanted 9?mm?(did you mean cm?) of spacer between the cone and locknut?
WHY?
Were you attempting to use a longer than normal steerer on this frame; perhaps as a means of setting the stem higher?
You do realize, that this is not a safe thing to do on a threaded headset, right?
The minimum insertion mark on a quill stem, is in reference to the effective top of the headset; ie, the cone. Adding a stack of spacers above the cone, does not mean you get more height. Any threaded section of steerer above the cone does not support load safely; the threads act as stress risers and can fracture.
1 antirotation washer; that's it, no spacers or other wierdness should be in there.

+1. Even cutting the steerer to the exact length needed for the HS and its factory washer/spacer is bad IMO if it's a short HS (as you can never then use a taller HS; with a short HS you you should make room for an extra 5-10mm of spacers). But this shop really screwed up.

Its not essential there are thin ones, 'toothless'


'Toothed' washer can mean one interior tab . fitting into a milled slot
put into the steerer tube when the fork was produced.

or one crenelated like the ramparts of a castle , but those seem to be relics
of the 70's French .. forks had a flat face to lock those against rotation.

if the shop screwed up and won't take responsibility file a claim in court. small claims court.
seek damages compensation. [other than shooting ] The USA communicates through Lawsuits.

perhaps they need to pay for the cost of the whole bike frame and fork , what you paid.
then you start over , at least with out a monitary loss in theplan.

.......just an afterthought on your unhappy experience. It's pretty obvious whoever did this
for you did not know Jack **** (I, OTOH, have a t-shirt attesting to the fact that I do know Jack.)

So it is remotely possible that the roughness in your headset is due to the bearings and their cages
being incorrectly intstalled (upside down, etc.)......probably won't help much at this point, but FWIW.